--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4500002 Date: 04/04/98 From: DON DELLMANN Time: 06:25pm \/To: RON TAYLOR (Read 0 times) Subj: MC fuel tank While tripping merrily through the mail, Ron Taylor was overheard RT> This weekend a buddy suggested filling the tank with water and RT> freezing it. Theoretically, when the water expands, it will force the RT> dent out. Sounds plausible, simple, painless, and by far the easiest. RT> The only danger I see is the possibility of the tank bulging in the RT> wrong place. What are your thoughts?? Pro or con... I'm afraid if you use the "freezing" approach, you'll probably burst the tank at a seam. I would go to the body shop, the air pressure works, I've also heard of a technique that uses a vacuum to "suck" the dent out. Don ... Harleys Don't Leak Oil..They Just Mark Their Territory ! --- * Origin: *YOPS ]I[* 8.4 GIG * RA/FD/FE * Milwaukee, WI (1:154/750) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4500003 Date: 04/04/98 From: ROY WITT Time: 11:15am \/To: RON TAYLOR (Read 0 times) Subj: MC fuel tank On, 01 Apr 98 at 09:29, Ron Taylor was overheard shouting over the engine noise, saying something to All about "MC fuel tank",: RT> I've considered several approaches to getting the dent out. The RT> alternatives range from cutting the dent out and welding in a new RT> piece (extreme), to drilling holes and pulling the dent out with a RT> slide hammer. Close! A body shop should have a stud welder for this job. They'll spot weld a stud or series of studs to the dent, then use the slide hammer to pull the dent out. When they're done, all that's left to do is cut off the studs, sand it down and repaint. ... My 13th Chevy: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z, in Heartbeat Flame Red. (1992) --- T(W)itt Filter Tossed v1.13 * Origin: (1:202/909.13) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4500004 Date: 04/04/98 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 07:16pm \/To: ROB MCCART (Read 0 times) Subj: Timing belt lifespan? Rob Mccart wrote in a message to Gary Hall: RM> I drove (20 miles) into town the other day and parked - came RM> out to a battery so dead that the radio wouldn't even work... RM> Carried the battery 3 blocks to the Ford dealership (closest RM> place) who informed me that it had an internal short and was RM> scrap. Internal short? I've seen shorted cells, but that's real uncommon these days. Much more common is a simple bad connection inside the battery that opens up. I've seen it also become much more common in later model stuff that uses more of the low-profile battery styles. RM> $135 later I hauled it back to the truck (Ford F150 6) What year? RM> started it up and went home. Went to move it the next morning RM> and got click.. click.. After a bit of solonoid bypassing have RM> pretty much decided that the (one year old) starter motor is RM> fried. One year old? Jeez... Well, excessive starter draw can cook a battery that's headed towards the end of its lifetime anyhow. But that sounds like an expensive replacement. Of course, a dealer is going to charge you way more than many other places. RM> I am currently parked a mile from the house (reasons I won't RM> bore you with) and a half mile from any building or source of RM> electricity and it hasn't stopped pouring rain for 2 days with RM> a possible 4 more to come... RM> How's THAT for luck... B) Doncha just love it when stuff all happens together like that? email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4500005 Date: 04/04/98 From: CHARLES BOWMAN Time: 07:02am \/To: RON TAYLOR (Read 0 times) Subj: MC fuel tank Ron Taylor wrote in a message to All: RT> One of my bikes has a dented fuel tank. It is a "dish" in the top RT> of the tank with a crease down the center. Diameter of the "dish" A crease is bad news but you could try the air pressure technique. I tend to agree that the ice would probably create stresses in places other than the dent. Probably the most direct approach is the slide hammer and weld up the holes afterwards. Since the dent is on top the capacity is probably affected very little so the bondo filler is really not a bad idea either. cbowman@sinfo.net --- Renegade v98-061a dos * Origin: Techshop's Southern Most Point - Panama (1:3651/9.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4500006 Date: 04/04/98 From: CHARLES BOWMAN Time: 07:08am \/To: RONNIE THOMPSON (Read 0 times) Subj: Messages Ronnie Thompson wrote in a message to John Faerber: RT> That's about all I'm seeing on this end too. Since Sean seems to RT> be missing in action and Todd isn't posting any longer, it's lonely RT> in here (G). That and Kenny now working 2 jobs it really has slowed down. Gotta wonder though, when Sean was driving the FORD p/u he posted a problem a day, now that he's driving a Honda... well you get the gist. cbowman@sinfo.net --- Renegade v98-061a dos * Origin: Techshop's Southern Most Point - Panama (1:3651/9.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4A00000 Date: 04/05/98 From: GARY HALL Time: 02:21am \/To: ROB MCCART (Read 0 times) Subj: Timing belt lifespan? On (31 Mar 98) Rob Mccart wrote to Gary Hall... RM> it up and went home. Went to move it the next morning and got RM> click.. click.. After a bit of solonoid bypassing have pretty RM> much decided that the (one year old) starter motor is fried. On thing on them Fords I run into a lot of problems with the ground cable corroding at the engine block. You need to check for a draw also I have saw lots of problems with the Ford alitnators drawing the Battery down through the field coils. The regulator dont shut them off. RM> How's THAT for luck... B) You need a rabbits foot or something. Later Gary --- PPoint 2.02 * Origin: Terlton the Oklahoma Jungle 74081 (1:170/302.16) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4B00000 Date: 04/05/98 From: KEITH SCUDDER Time: 11:08pm \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: MC fuel tank RW> RT> I've considered several approaches to getting the dent out. The RW> RT> alternatives range from cutting the dent out and welding in a new RW> RT> piece (extreme), to drilling holes and pulling the dent out with a RW> RT> slide hammer. RW> Close! A body shop should have a stud welder for this job. They'll spot w RW>a stud or series of studs to the dent, then use the slide hammer to pull the RW>dent out. When they're done, all that's left to do is cut off the studs, san RW>it down and repaint. Roy, just my 2c if I may speak, would a strong electric magnet work? I used magnets while I had my business and for smaller dents and thin metal, it was all that was needed. Keith.......................................... --- * OLX 2.1 TD * E-mail address: kas@juno.com * Origin: PC BBS : Massapequa, NY : (516)795-5874 (1:2619/110) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4B00001 Date: 04/06/98 From: LYNN FLETCHER Time: 05:37pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Hidden Warranties How do I find out about hidden warranties? The vehicle in question is the Ford Windstar. I've had to have major work done on the transmission to the tune of $1300. The problem was that the reverse gear would give a lot of trouble to go in once the van had warmed up. To a lesser extent, the forward (D - selector) gear would exhibit the same problem, but I could always get past this by shifting into second gear then going back to Drive. The van is 3.5 years old and has 80,000 miles. ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12 --- Platinum Xpress/Win/Wildcat5! v2.0 * Origin: Get All Your Fido Here! telnet://docsplace.dynip.com (1:3603/140) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4B00002 Date: 04/05/98 From: JASON WEDEHASE Time: 07:53pm \/To: RON TAYLOR (Read 0 times) Subj: MC fuel tank Ron Taylor told the story like this: RT> I've considered several approaches to getting the dent out. The RT> alternatives range from cutting the dent out and welding in a new RT> piece (extreme), to drilling holes and pulling the dent out with a RT> slide hammer. I understand that some body shops can seal the tank and RT> apply enough air pressure to blow the dent out. A really sloppy RT> approach is to fill the dent with Bondo and paint over it. Bondo, is an option, I guess.... however, there are better ways to pull dents now. Instead of drilling holes and pulling the dent, a body shop has a little tool that welds a 3" wire rod the the metal, and they pull on that rod then cut it off when done. The rest can be done with Bondo, I'd think. RT> This weekend a buddy suggested filling the tank with water and RT> freezing it. Theoretically, when the water expands, it will force the RT> dent out. Sounds plausible, simple, painless, and by far the easiest. Eek!! I would stay away from that. It doesn't expand THAT much, and it'd be highly unlikely that it would actually freeze in the right spot. Water isn't that intelligent. Jason Wedehase strife66@Psynet.net http://www.Psynet.net/strife66 ... You can test my urine when you pry my penis from my cold dead fingers. ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0154 * Origin: MicroLink BBS * Dinuba, CA 209-591-8753 (1:214/80) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F4B00003 Date: 04/05/98 From: JASON WEDEHASE Time: 07:53pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Me lately... I haven't posted in a while... but I got a couple ideas to throw out, if anyone happens to know the answer. I have a '66 Ford Fairlane with an 8" rear-end. I just got a hold of a complete 9" rear end that I want to build then slip in there. I've heard that the 9" will be a little too wide, so it would have to be narrowed. If so, so be it. However, I know that at least SOME '66 Fairlanes came with a 9" option. I pulled the axle out of a '73 Gran Torino. Second, I pulled the radiator, too, cause it's a big fat one, and mine is the smallest I've ever seen in a V8. For the big one to work correctly, I'm gonna have to open up the hole in the radiator support area that sits between the two fenders. Opening up that hole... Will I have any problems with structural integrity then? It should only be a few inches on each side, maybe 4-6". Third, I'm *FINALLY* running a 4bbl. It's a Holley 750 vacuum secondaries. I'm having a rich mixture problem, I think... the plugs are black, but I'm not sure if that was done BEFORE I changed jets. It had size 72 jets, which seemed to be too big for my 351, even though it has a sizeable cam. I went to 68s, and there has been a DRASTIC difference in economy (7MPG to 20MPG). What size jets are any of you guys running, or have you run in the past? BTW, 4bbl made ENORMOUS difference in performance =). Kenny... where's your Firebird? =). Not that big a difference, though, cause it still has a dead tranny. Jason Wedehase strife66@Psynet.net http://www.Psynet.net/strife66 ... If a turtle loses his shell, is it naked or homeless? ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0154 * Origin: MicroLink BBS * Dinuba, CA 209-591-8753 (1:214/80)