--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3S00003 Date: 03/22/98 From: TOM WALKER Time: 07:15am \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: OHM'S LAW / Current sensi -> TW>-> TW> Since the Reeds are VERY low Mass and the Magnetic Field wo -> TW>-> quite -> TW>-> TW>strong I would say Little Very Reliable. -> TW>-> -> TW>-> Um, say that again, Tom?????? :) -> -> TW> That should have been "Very Little Reliability Problems". -> -> You're not as think as you confused you are! VBG At 66 I am not A LOT of things I used to be! :-) --- Platinum Xpress/386/Wildcat! v1.3e * Origin: The Alien Biker Kat BBS/Wildcat/PX. Not perfect, but C (1:202/746) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3S00004 Date: 03/22/98 From: MARK LOGSDON Time: 12:17pm \/To: DENNIS FARKAS (Read 0 times) Subj: Engineering??????? DF> Perhaps you could explain why the wiring harness of almost every DF> vehicle I've ever owned (foreign and domestic), is always DF> (EXACTLY!!!!!!) 2cm. too short to facilitate easy field removal or DF> reattachment? The ONLY vehicle that I've ever I can't say in your case. There could be several different reasons. This is the way harnesses were usually designed in the past and probably to some extent today. Electrical wiring schematics are created, including shielding arrangement, pin placement, wire type, wire size, and connector size. This is usually done by an electrical engineer but could be done by a mechanical engineer. (Today the layout might be done fully on a 3-D computer system, but I'll not address that other than to say there might be an error in the computer software or in the model of the engine.) Next, a layout of the harness is done on a mockup of the engine. Often string, twine, or small rope is used to determine harness branch lengths and branch breakout locations. These dimensions are recorded on paper. A mechanical engineer and a draftsman creates a layout drawing showing how the harness fits on the engine. The same people create a harness drawing showing the lengths and breakout locations. After the harness drawing is completed, an order is placed for for one or more prototypes. When the prototypes are received, they are fitted on an actual engine to ensure that the dimensions are correct and that there are no interferences with other components. If any errors are found, then the drawings are (or should be) changed and new prototypes are procured (or the existing prototypes are modified). Eventually the harnesses are tested on an operating engine. That should prove whether the wiring is correct and whether the harness survives under somewhat realistic conditions. There is other testing that is involved here too, such as electrical and environmental testing, but I don't believe that's so relevant to your query. Why could the harness be too short? As I said, there could be several reasons. I'll list a few that come to mind. (1) The lengths on the drawing could be wrong. This could be simple human error or it could be that the layout engineer expected the layout rope to stretch too much and overcorrected for the limited stretch. (2) There is an interference that was not known at the time of layout. Maybe something was added later. (3) The harness was manufactured incorrectly by the supplier. The automaker should measure the harnesses upon arrival and reject those not in compliance, but sometimes "small" deviations are accepted in order to ensure production orders. (4) The harness insulation might shrink because of heating and cooling. I'm sure there other reasons, but I've listed enough to make the point. --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0232 * Origin: IBMNet Connection - Indpls, IN - 317-882-5575 28.8 USR (1:231/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3T00000 Date: 03/18/98 From: JARED MORGAN Time: 12:36pm \/To: GARY HALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Hemi heads for pontiac 455 *** After turning a pint glass upside down, Gary Hall said to Jared Morgan > On (04 Mar 98) Jared Morgan wrote to All... > > JM> Hot off the mill and cnc, came the first Hemi-spherical heads for > a > JM> pontiac 455cid engine, > > JM> Please state your commentss on this subject. > > Give me some specks I'll run it on my computerised dyno I need > CR intake and exhaust Dia. and camshaft design. What type fuel > system is it designed for carb FI ??? > *** The above occured on 03-12-98 I'll try to get some specks, right now all testing has stoped in fear of a copyright lawsuit from the plymouth co. I'll post updates as I get them. --- FMail/386 1.02 * Origin: KastlerocK - Jeannette, PA - 412.527.3749 (1:129/334) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3T00001 Date: 03/17/98 From: COREY COOK Time: 04:33pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: new to this echo Hello. I am 16,new to this echo, and just started striping the first Car/truck engine I have ever tinkered with. bit of background on me, I live in Falkland B.C. Canada, I have rebuilt one or two lawnmower engines but there dumb,have rebuilt three 4 stroke motorcycle engines and two 2 stroke motorcycle engines(to easy), I am mechanicly inclined(if it dont work I fix it,if it do work try and make it better), I do all maintenance on the family vehicles (chevy astro van,jeep j-10,mitsubishi diesel tractor) that I can do that I am able to do. anyhow we got got an old bus that was wrecked to be used as a fort/workshop for my bro for the price of towing($80) which was cheaper than lumber for that size of structure, the engine was still in it but had most of the easy to take off and usefull parts taken off(no pulley,alternater,waterpump,carb,valve covers) what is left is the engine,its guts, the heads with all the stuff for the heads(only the valve covers were taken off for some reason),intake,exaust manifolds, and the bell housing with I dont know what still attached to the crank. what I need to know is what it is, all I know is it is a GM engine out a a GMC bus, Gasoline V-8. I can supply any and all numbers needed to figure out what it is and have these numbers here. Engine serial is TV191194, block was stamped with 8914678 at the back on the left side at the top(I dont know the proper terms YET), crank is stamped 3703870. any other numbers needed for id please describe where they are --- Maximus/2 3.01 * Origin: William's, Vernon B.C. 28.8 250-549-2409 24hrs free (1:353/385) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3T00002 Date: 03/17/98 From: COREY COOK Time: 04:51pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: engine striping also how do I pull the cam shaft? all i have left to do to make it just a block is figure out how to get stuck lifters out and pull the camshaft. --- Maximus/2 3.01 * Origin: William's, Vernon B.C. 28.8 250-549-2409 24hrs free (1:353/385) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3T00003 Date: 03/23/98 From: MARK LOGSDON Time: 09:53pm \/To: JARED MORGAN (Read 0 times) Subj: Hemi heads for pontiac 45 JM> I'll try to get some specks, right now all testing has JM> stoped in fear of a copyright lawsuit from the plymouth JM> co. I'll post updates as I get them. Copyright? --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0232 * Origin: IBMNet Connection - Indpls, IN - 317-882-5575 28.8 USR (1:231/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3U00000 Date: 03/24/98 From: JOHN RANGER Time: 09:42am \/To: COREY COOK (Read 0 times) Subj: new to this echo Corey Cook wrote in a message to All: Welcome Cory, please try to add a line or two every so often...not all of us are young with good A: Eyes B: Memory C: Teeth D: all of the above Hope you find an answer. *********************** John RANGER *************************** * Origin: (1:260/310.4) --- Squish v1.11 * Origin: KBC Point 4 (1:260/310.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3U00001 Date: 03/24/98 From: JAN DEBOER Time: 08:21am \/To: DARYL MACDONALD (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Timing belt lifespan? On 17 Mar 98 12:39:16 Daryl Macdonald wrote to Jan Deboer... DM> I've never done a belt on a 2.2 or a 2.5 Shadow so I DM> can't help you there. From what you are saying it DM> sounds like a lot more work then what my old '86 Ranger DM> was. I broke that on the way to work one day and got it DM> towed to work and stayed late and did the job in about DM> an hour. I checked with a few local shops/dealers, and the quoted labour charge was for 3 to 3.5 hours. That's not much time for the amount of work involved - I'd hate to be the technician under pressure to do the job that fast. I think there'd be some short cuts taken, and sloppy workmanship, which is the main reason I'm doing it myself. It's taken me a couple of weeks, but it's amazing how much better things go when you just work on it when you're in the mood! The only hitch was getting the crank pulley off - had to use impact tool. And Chryco really ripped me off for the replacment 'torque' type bolts - over $4 apiece! Highway robbery. DM> I have also done some on Nissan Micra's and DM> have taken anywhere from a couple of hours to 3 days, DM> depending on when they broke, or if they broke. They DM> were a pain cause if they broke they liked bending at DM> least 4 valves and sometimes they would damage the head DM> which ran into big money. Luckily, the Chrysler 2.2 and 2.5 are non-interference engines, so no worries about a broken belt doing any damage. DM> warmer :) So where are you at? I'm in Oshawa, Ontario. DM> I know here in Halifax, DM> NS, it was nice last week but it decided that winter DM> was coming back the first of the week. Same here - a couple of spring-like weeks, then back to half a foot of snow. But, as long as the afternoon sun is out, no wind, and temp at or above freezing, working in the garage is ok. I got the 2.2 belt replaced ok. Nothing visually obvious on the old one, but the 'squishing' noise with every revolution is gone now! Are you in the automotive field? --- Everything/2 * Origin: Tiny's BBS - Inet: tinys.oix.com / On,Canada (1:229/600) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3U00002 Date: 03/24/98 From: JAN DEBOER Time: 09:40am \/To: DENNIS FARKAS (Read 0 times) Subj: Engineering??????? On 21 Mar 98 12:13:30 Dennis Farkas wrote to Jan Deboer... JD> AAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! DF> DF> That would explain my having to remove half of the DF> airconditioning system in my Dodge van, just to change DF> the $2.95 thermostat. Incredible, isn't it! It seems there is absolutely no thought about maintenance at the design stage. FOUR bloody belts on this little four banger, along with an incredible arrangement of whirlygigs and gewgaws of idlers and tensioners. A little thought and ingenuity at the design phase, and the timing belt job could be made much, much easier. --- Everything/2 * Origin: Tiny's BBS - Inet: tinys.oix.com / On,Canada (1:229/600) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3U00003 Date: 03/24/98 From: JAN DEBOER Time: 08:48am \/To: TOM COLLINS (Read 0 times) Subj: Timing belt lifespan? On 16 Mar 98 01:36:00 Tom Collins wrote to Jan Deboer... TC> I have had 2.2 and 2.5 engines. Timing belts can last TC> 75k miles or more. My son's car (a 2.5) went 110k miles TC> and we changed it only because we had the engine out TC> for a rear main seal replacement. We observed that the TC> belt was very close to the end of it's life. I replaced the 2.2 belt because it was making a loud 'squishing' noise once per revolution. Nothing visually obvious on the old one, but the noise is gone now. The car has 75k kilometres on the clock, but I got it used, so no idea if original engine. It has _obviously_ been worked on, by Mr. Incompetentwrench. TC> Fortunately, these engines don't bend valves when the TC> belt goes. Just leaves you stranded. Yes, I was aware of that. Good thinking at Chrysler! TC> The 2.2/2.5 timing belts are not interchangable. The TC> 'teeth' on the gears were redesigned to reduce noise. I bought a new belt for the 2.5 at Canadian Tire. On my way to the cashier, I opened the box and looked at the belt. It had big gobs of dirty black grease on it! Obviously, 'previously installed'!! I threw it at the cashier and went to another Candian Tire. Bought the belt, went home, looked at it. Identical tooth size to my old 2.2 belt. BUT, it's incredibly small and narrow! Call the parts counter, ask then to look up the part number. It's for a NISSAN!! Supposedly, rubber parts are not returnable. I returned it! Got the correct one. You're right - they're not interchangeable. The tooth spacing is wider (fewer teeth) than the 2.2 belt, the teeth are deeper, and have rounded edges, which should make for easier engagement with sprocket, lessening chances of skipping a tooth. I shouldn't think noise would be a design consider - can't really hear the timing belt above all the other cacaphony under the hood. :-) TC> I put a 1991 2.5 in a 1987 wagon that had a 2.2 in it. TC> Took some pulley swapping, but otherwise it fit TC> perfectly. The smoother running engine and more power TC> were noticable. I don't really notice any difference in smoothness between my 2.2 and 2.5! I _do_ notice a difference in power, mainly low-end and _much_ greater than would be expected from only an additional 300cc. The 2.2 does have a higher compression ratio than the 2.5, and it runs better with a gas mix of half'n half regular/premium. Great cars, except for the Chrysler air conditoning :-( the fatal seal in the steeering rack, and the short-lived front brakes. JdB --- Everything/2 * Origin: Tiny's BBS - Inet: tinys.oix.com / On,Canada (1:229/600)