--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00001 Date: 03/13/98 From: TOM WALKER Time: 07:59am \/To: DENNIS FARKAS (Read 0 times) Subj: Engineering??????? -> ML> I worked for one of the Big Three, and I can tell you that the -> ML> layout for the engine harnesses and wiring were usually done by -> ML> mechanical engineers and draftsmen. Electrical engineers were -> ML> usually often not consulted until after wiring problems appeared. -> -> Just out of curiosity, who does the Mechanical Engineering in Detroit -> Marketing Departments, or perhaps the Accounting Department? Now days it is Accounting. The "Bean Counters" have all the Trump cards. Doesn't make for very good cars but sure Improves the Bottom Line and Stockholder Dividends. And that is the Name of the Game isn't it? --- Platinum Xpress/386/Wildcat! v1.3d * Origin: The Alien Biker Kat BBS/Wildcat/PX. Not perfect, but C (1:202/746) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00002 Date: 03/13/98 From: GARY HALL Time: 08:50pm \/To: DENNIS FARKAS (Read 0 times) Subj: Engineering??????? On (12 Mar 98) Dennis Farkas wrote to Mark Logsdon... ML> I worked for one of the Big Three, and I can tell you that the ML> layout for the engine harnesses and wiring were usually done by ML> mechanical engineers and draftsmen. Electrical engineers were ML> usually often not consulted until after wiring problems appeared. DF> Just out of curiosity, who does the Mechanical Engineering in Detroit? DF> The Marketing Departments, or perhaps the Accounting Department? I think the janortial department. --- PPoint 2.02 * Origin: Terlton the Oklahoma Jungle 74081 (1:170/302.16) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00003 Date: 03/13/98 From: TOBIAS HEUER Time: 09:30pm \/To: JARED MORGAN (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Hemi heads for pontiac 455 > Hot off the mill and cnc, came the first Hemi-spherical heads for a > pontiac 455cid engine, custom madede valves, and rockers, countless CAD, > and shop hours. Testing starts later this month. Calledd RAM-AIR-HEMI's > we hope to market these custom made heads soon after testing. > Please state your commentss on this subject. > > --- FMail/386 1.02 > * Origin: KastlerocK - Jeannette, PA - 412.527.3749 (1:129/334) --- CrossPoint v3.11 * Origin: (2:241/500.6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00004 Date: 03/13/98 From: TOBIAS HEUER Time: 09:36pm \/To: JOHN PUMMILL (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: TCC Lockup KH>> Don't temp me. What are you doing with that car? Still KH>> mess around KH>> with it? A friend of mine recently sold his supercharged KH>> Mustang KH>> GT that went 12.1. It wasn't his daily driver and he wants KH>> to get KH>> another car, so he decided it was time to get rid of it. He KH>> said he KH>> cried when the new owner was driving away in it:) > I am waiting on you to come down here and get it. :) Yeah, I would get a > little emotional if/when the Prix leaves... of course that would not last > long. :) KH>> Still at the body shop, I get it back tommorow morning! KH>> (Tuesday KH>> morning) My tires just came today, I can't wait! > What happened to it ?? KH>> Yeah I have ABS but that didn't help much :) > Hate to hear that. > > --- FMail 0.94 > * Origin: Running from the Klan in the Fiero (1:123/30) >>> [*HEUER*] Email *THeuer@mailonly.ftn.de* --- CrossPoint v3.11 * Origin: (2:241/500.6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00005 Date: 03/13/98 From: TOBIAS HEUER Time: 09:43pm \/To: TOBIAS HEUER (Read 0 times) Subj: Re^2: TCC Lockup Es kann keinen Gott geben, denn er haette nicht zugelassen, das *Tobias Heuer* folgendes zum Thema *Re: TCC Lockup* auf die Welt losgelassen haette. KH>>> Don't temp me. What are you doing with that car? Still KH>>> mess around KH>>> with it? A friend of mine recently sold his supercharged KH>>> Mustang KH>>> GT that went 12.1. It wasn't his daily driver and he wants KH>>> to get KH>>> another car, so he decided it was time to get rid of it. He KH>>> said he KH>>> cried when the new owner was driving away in it:) > > I am waiting on you to come down here and get it. :) Yeah, I would get a > > little emotional if/when the Prix leaves... of course that would not last > > long. :) KH>>> Still at the body shop, I get it back tommorow morning! KH>>> (Tuesday KH>>> morning) My tires just came today, I can't wait! > > What happened to it ?? KH>>> Yeah I have ABS but that didn't help much :) > > Hate to hear that. > > > > --- FMail 0.94 > > * Origin: Running from the Klan in the Fiero (1:123/30) > > >>> [*HEUER*] > > Email *THeuer@mailonly.ftn.de* > > --- CrossPoint v3.11 > * Origin: (2:241/500.6) --> [*HEUER*] eMail *THeuer@mailonly.ftn.de* --- CrossPoint v3.11 * Origin: (2:241/500.6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3I00006 Date: 03/12/98 From: RON TAYLOR Time: 08:40am \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Auto questions Two questions for the experts... Question 1: What affect does a bad cc have on engine performance? When I say "bad", I mean one that has not been changed since factory new and is now over two hundred thousand miles. Other than creating pollution and undesirable emissions, will this condition have a detrimental affect on the motor? Can such a cc cause an engine to miss-fire intermittently? Bad fuel mileage? What? Question 2: Also about catalytic converters. Notwithstanding the laws against such things, and the obvious pollution problems, what is the _performance_ result in simply removing the converter? If one were to attempt to eliminate the converter, would certain adjustments have to be made to the engine, ignition, fuel system, etc.? Would this be different on a computer controlled engine as opposed to an older, non-computerized one? No flames please..... oh well, flame if you wish, but I'm only asking the question for my own edification. Enhancing the knowledge base, you know.... Thanks, Ron --- * QMPro 1.02 42-7029 * Who elected her??????? --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Crime Bytes (1:135/5.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3J00000 Date: 03/13/98 From: WILLIAM BYRD Time: 12:21am \/To: GARY HARDIN (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: 1966 GMC Pickup In a message to ALL <03-11-98 19:34> Gary Hardin wrote: > Here's my problem: > The truck starts and idles fine, but under power, it coughs, sputters > and farts. I can't get it up above about 40mph! I put a carb kit in > it > and it seems to be a bit smoother but the cough and gasp is still > there. > I put a timeing light on it and the initial read appeared to be WAY > above the "A" on the timing tab. The owners manual (yep, still in > the > glove box in the original plastic bag!) and Chiltons says it should > be > 6deg BTDC. Now I don't remember how many degrees each mark on the > tab > is. There are about 5 marks "above" the 0 to the "A" then about 5 > more > past it. There are only 5 marks "below" the 0. How many degrees are > each mark and is the 0 Top Dead Center? Gary, To answer your first question each mark is two degrees. The second answer is yes zero is top dead center and to prove it take out your number one plug and crank the engine over until the top of the piston is a quarter of the way from the top of the cylinder. > What other things could be causing the lack of power and backfiring? > Since parts for this truck are pretty inexpensive, I am going to > replace > the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser, and probably the > carb. > Should I look for any other symptoms and where! As you did not say what type of transmission this beast has I can't say if you have a clogged vaccum value or not. (Automatic only). Another cause could be a bad fuel pump, check your fuel pressure again by cranking the engine over without starting it. Also look for a bad choke pull off if the truck (again has an automatic transmission). This could be causing some of your backfire, as could a bad mixture setting on the carbarator. Wm. --- GEcho 1.11+ * Origin: The Lone Wolf Orlando, Florida (407)-894-9641 (1:363/129) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3J00001 Date: 03/14/98 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 09:36am \/To: PETER HARLE (Read 0 times) Subj: OHM'S LAW / Current sensing? Peter Harle wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: -=> Quoting Roy J. Tellason to Peter Harle <=- PH> The circuit to sense a failed brake light (globe) used by PH> several car and truck manufacturers was based on a relay with PH> two current windings. Whenever the current was balanced the PH> relay would NOT energize (differentially wound). If a globe in PH> either the right or left side of the vehicle went open circuit, PH> then the current flow through the two windings would be out of PH> balance and energize the relay contactor and illuminate a PH> warning light on the dash. RJT> I *like* this idea! Never thought about the differential current as a RJT> way of telling that there was a problem. Though you'd have to wire RJT> such a device (or its equivalent) near the location of the bulbs, RJT> based on the way I see a lot of stuff being wired. PH> Depends on the vehicle of course, but some have separate fuses PH> for the left and right hand sides. I've never encountered this in anything I've owned. PH> That would allow the sensing coils to be located close to the PH> dash/fuses, rather than near the brake lights. Although most PH> cars do have two wires coming back from the lights and joining PH> at the brake light switch or fuse panel. I guess for brake lights there would be two separate wires involved, if those were also used for turn signals. In the case of my current vehicle, it's the first car that I've owned that had the "yellow" turn signals at the rear, so they're running a separate bulb for that. PH> Similar relays were used to indicate a fault condition in PH> indicator lights, or to operate a "slave relay" for truck PH> trailers etc. These were commonly available from Hella, Bosch, PH> Delco-Remy et all. RJT> I have never encountered such a relay, though I don't think it'd be RJT> all that difficult to manufacture. Are they expensive? Do you see RJT> any way to implement an electronic equivalent of such a relay? PH> What isn't expensive these days? Using parts you already have on hand vs. having to go out and buy... :-) PH> Reed relays are available in a wide range of configurations, PH> (NO/NC/CO change over) and current ratings. The reed relays I PH> fiddled with were around 40mm long x 4mm dia. I think that somewhere I have some reed switches bought at radio shack as a pack, 15 or so if I remember right, close to those dimensions. PH> the diffferentially wound coil was of 2 layers of 40 turns PH> of approx. 1mm dia. wound directly over over the glass reed PH> relay body. That's the part I was wondering about. 1mm diameter sounds like it's roughly #18 wire. I guess you'd wire these up so that the current goes in opposite directions when things were working normally... PH> It wouldn't be difficult to come up with a sensor based on a PH> hall effect device (as per Mark Logsdon suggestion) or an MMF PH> resistor, either could be used within a toroidal current probe. Actually my original thinking on this was to insert a small-value resistor in each wire of the circuit, with some sort of a simple sensing circuit connected to it, though I guess that the differential current relay sounds like it might be even simpler yet. I'm going to have to play with this idea a bit, look into it some. PH> But it's still much more practical to use a differentially PH> wound reed relay approach. Much more reliable compared to PH> setting up, & calibrating electronics to do the same job. Yeah, probably. PH> (dc coupled op-amps are a pain to set upon a single rail PH> supply!) That thought occurred to me too, though there are some which would perform well in such a situation, like the 3130 or 3140. Or there's even using discrete parts with a PNP input... PH> Roy, you should be able to get these relay units from Truck PH> wreckers etc. Yeah, and I even know where there is one of those places in the area, though I'd need to know pretty much exactly what I was looking for if I were to try that approach. PH> I had some Hella & Bosch units as used in "Flashers" but can't PH> seem to find them at the moment, however they were very common PH> some 10 to 15 years ago (I was teaching automotive electronics PH> to auto-electricians at the time), I don't think they've found PH> a reliable solid state substitute yet. I'll have to look into this some more. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3J00002 Date: 03/13/98 From: JAN DEBOER Time: 06:53pm \/To: DARYL MACDONALD (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Timing belt lifespan? On 10 Mar 98 15:57:42 Daryl Macdonald wrote to Jan Deboer... JD> My 1989 Dodge Shadow 2.5 L has 129,000 kilometers on the JD> clock, with the original engine timing belt. [...] JD> Anyone know what the normal lifespan of these belts is? DM> I wouldn't leave it much longer if you can afford it. I DM> had a Ford Ranger that was the same way and it is not DM> good to be on your way somewhere and get halfway there DM> and braek the belt. I know - that's what I hope to avoid! DM> If you can do the work yourself DM> then see if you can borrow a friends garage or see if a DM> local garage will rent a bay to you. I have an unheated garage, and am thus hoping the belt lasts until the weather warms up a bit! I can do the work myself, although I haven't done a timing belt replacement before. I also have an '88 Shadow 2.2L, which had a noisey belt, and am 'training' on it. Shop manual indicates removal of inner splash panel, power steering, air conditioning and serpentine belts, water pump pulley and crankshaft pulley, and timing belt covers. They forgot to mention that the compressor, alternator, tensioner, idler, and incredibly inept mounting bracket, replete with bolt which penetrates into cooling system, also have to be removed. Some of the dismantling is done, but the weather turned cold, so I had a good excuse to avoid the job :-) What I was hoping for was some feedback on experience specific to the 2.5L engine. Surprisingly, there is a difference between the 2.2 and the 2.5 belt, since the latter costs twice as much as the 2.2 belt. I'm assuming that because of the incredible amount of labour involved in just accessing the belt, they made the 2.5 belt stronger to lengthen service life. Everyone tells me the belts are not interchangeable, yet the 2.2 and 2.5 engines are supposedly identical, except for stroke and the addition of two small chain driven balance shafts on the 2.5. I asked a local dealership, and they recommend replacement of the 2.5 belt @100,000 km. Whenever I'm parked near another Shadow, I always peer in at the odomoter, and 200,000 km is pretty common. I guess I'm going to have to accost the drivers and ask about engine size and timing belt replacement! . --- Everything/2 * Origin: Tiny's BBS - Inet: tinys.oix.com / On,Canada (1:229/600) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F3J00003 Date: 03/13/98 From: JAN DEBOER Time: 07:22pm \/To: DENNIS FARKAS (Read 0 times) Subj: Engineering??????? On 12 Mar 98 09:28:26 Dennis Farkas wrote to Mark Logsdon... ML> I worked for one of the Big Three, and I can tell you that the ML> layout for the engine harnesses and wiring were usually done by ML> mechanical engineers and draftsmen. Electrical engineers were ML> usually often not consulted until after wiring problems appeared. DF> Just out of curiosity, who does the Mechanical DF> Engineering in Detroit? The Marketing Departments, or DF> perhaps the Accounting Department? The accounting department - at least at Chrysler. Everything is designed to be as inaccessible as possible, to extract the maximum labour cost from customers, and cause strokes and heart attacks in do-it-yourselfers. Try changing the timing belt or carbureator air stove, or steering rack on a 2.2 or 2.5 Chrysler engine! AAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! --- Everything/2 * Origin: Tiny's BBS - Inet: tinys.oix.com / On,Canada (1:229/600)