--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00020 Date: 01/10/98 From: RUBEN LOPEZ Time: 04:04pm \/To: ALAN MORRISON (Read 0 times) Subj: Electrical loads, battery AM> This was a '62 Pontiac with 3 speed automatic. It evidently still had AM> the rear pump in the tranny which is what allows them to be push tarted. AM> Somewhere after this GM (along with others) removed the extra pump at AM> the rear, possibly for cost as well as efficiency. It takes some fuel AM> to drive the extra pump... Did you know the 700r4 stops pumping fluid AM> through the cooler lines after lockup for this reason? AM> --- Blue Wave/386 v2.20 [NR] I have this 96 chevy truck with the vortec 350, It has a rated top speed of 130mph. Would this be with or without locking my converter? it's automatic and I have 3.42:1 gears. Are there any other Chevy lovers out there? Ruben Lopez A.K.A, The Fordkiller --- Maximus 2.02 * Origin: McAllen Memorial Library FidoNet (1:397/5258) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00021 Date: 01/10/98 From: RUBEN LOPEZ Time: 04:12pm \/To: ALAN MORRISON (Read 0 times) Subj: Oil pump? SD> Now I see this after I bought a case of the stuff.. AM> Oil used to carry the full SAE specs that included the Diesel ratings. AM> Some still do, so look for CC or CD (to CG). CC was a light duty Diesel AM> rating which meant it would take some high loading. CD was the next AM> higher rating, and often you would see CD on 30 weight and good 10w30 AM> oils but few 10w40's had the CD rating. AM> If you look at some of the 15w40 Diesel oils like Shell Rotella it will AM> go on up to CF and CG which means it handles extreme pressures. It will AM> also have the recommendations from Allison, Caterpillar, Mack, etc. AM> In the last few years these ratings have been removed from automotive oils AM> except the synthetics. IMO, it was to help sell the higher priced stuff AM> which sometimes showed little difference on the specs. Would you recomend running Diesel oil in gasoline motors? Chevy 350s for example? Ruben Lopez --- Maximus 2.02 * Origin: McAllen Memorial Library FidoNet (1:397/5258) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00022 Date: 01/10/98 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 08:40pm \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: 5th wheel vs tagalongs RW>You asked about fivers compared to tagalongs - why the fiver is RW>preferrable. I'll call fifth wheels fivers and towables tagalongs RW>-easier to write. RW>1: Fivers are much easier to back into a parking spot ONCE one learns RW>how. I find it easier to control a fiver compared to my tagalong even RW>though I've been towing a tagalon for many many years and had just a few RW>months experience with my son's fiver before selling it for him when he RW>went to Trinidad. RW>RW> I think that's in the eyes of the driver. I've seen some guys have RW>RW> problems with fivers too...experienced guys.. Well, I suppose we are all different. I had no trouble converting to a fiver after many many years and miles towing a tagalong. SOME people NEVER become proficient at backing ANY trailer. RW>RW> I had an independent welder in the back of my shop for a few years. RW>RW> He installed hitches, sway bars and even built some small tagalongs. RW>RW> He had a philosophy about tagalongs that seemed to work for him. All I can say here is that when you get into larger trailers 28 ft and longer, one would be much the wiser to stay with the major manufacturer's towing equipment - REGARDLESS of the price differential. RW>I know, the tow vehicle rear end overhang (rear axle to bumper), trailer RW>hitch weight ratio to trailer aft of the axles weight has a lot to do RW>with trailer sway. I have to optimum in that area. Vans like mine (long RW>wheel base but not the extra long van) have a very short rear overhang, RW>are very heavy (over 6500 lbs). Trailer is about 7000 lbs, has over 1000 RW>lbs hitch weight and isn't very heavy at the aft end compared to the RW>front end. RW>Pickups have a much longer rear overhang. The longer the overhang the RW>greater the sway probabilities. The lighter the hitch weight, the RW>greater the sway possibilities. RW>RW> And you advocate using a Van in place of a Pickup when towing a RW>RW> tagalong. I can understand that... Well, yes and no. A van has lots of advantages over a PU. But then a PU has some advantages over a van. The bed of a PU can be extremely useful as compared to a van with 3 rows of seats. I've wished a thousand times I had a PU, and have been thankful for the van just as often. In the actual towing mode - yes the van is best with a tagalong. RW>4: Look at a tagalong closely. The hitch part of the frame extends out RW>about 3 ft in front of the body. Now look at a fiver. The hitch extends RW>very little in front of the body. Comparing a 32' tagalong which RW>actually has a 29 ft body to a 32 ft fiver which actually has a 32 ft RW>body, you can see you really get 3 ft. more living space. RW>RW> Actually the body extends just past the hitch on the fivers I've True for some, but not true for all. RW>RW> seen. And I've noticed that they do seem to have more room in them. RW>RW> One of the welders customers had a fiver attached to the back of a RW>RW> Ford 1 ton dually. It was about 30' long and seemed to have lots of RW>RW> room.. For fivers up to approx. 35 ft duallys are NOT necessary. My son pulled his 32 ft fiver with a 1 ton Chevy LWB (without duals) all over the country. No problem. RW>5: Look at the storage space in each. A tagalong normally has VERY RW>LIMITED storage space OUTSIDE the living area (space for jacks, hoses, RW>chocking blocks, electric cords, drain hoses, etc) while most fivers RW>have scads of this type space and most of it is up front. In a tagalong RW>normally tis type space in at the rear - further upsetting the front to RW>rear weight ratio. RW>RW> The fiver I mentioned above had an air compressor, air conditioner RW>RW> and refrigeration unit in the section sitting over the pickup bed. RW>RW> Behind that was a bunk for the guy who operated a geological survey RW>RW> team from it... That IS an unusual arrangement. Virtually all fivers, have either the bedroom or the livingroom in the room above the hitch. RW>run out of fresh water and can't even make a pot of coffee, much less RW>cook a meal. RW>RW> Gotta have my coffee...it's a b***h when you can't get coffee in the RW>RW> morning.. Yep, and it sure is nice to be able to make that coffee and drink it in your skivies rather than get dressed and find a restaurant! RW>RW> Well, the wife and I have been talking about this for a while. We're RW>RW> thinking of buying an RV unit for open road living. Gonna join the RW>RW> grey haired travelers and see the country, in a few years. I've been I guess you wont be joing my group. I only have a little grey hair! RW>RW> inclined to buy a Motor Home and use a trailer to haul a passenger RW>RW> car for travel between parks and town...just a thought, not into the RW>RW> planning stages as yet.. RW>RW> Thanks for your input, Jay, I enjoyed it... Now that puts a whole different light on things. First, regardless of the motor home type (Class A, Class C, etc.) do NOT buy a trailer to haul a passenger car! Buy a car that can be towed on all 4 wheels. Honda Accord is one. Do LOTS of research on this, do NOT take a salesman's word for ANYTHING. If the manufacturer certifies the car as towable on all 4 it will be in the manufacturer's literature and OWNERS manual. Further, Trailer Life and Motor Home mags. are an extremely good source of information pf this type. Always remember the salesman is out for HIS buck, and after you buy he is through with you. The Honda Accord is just about the biggest car that normally can be towed by a motorhome (MH - from now on) without going over the rated GCVWR of the MH. Towing on all 4 is much simpler than towing on a trailer OR dolly. I forgot to mention, I guess. I've had MHs also and towed a Datsun 610 with an automatic on all 4. I made a transmission oil pump setup (using an electric fuel pump) and inserted it into the output transmission oil line with a switching valve so as to keep the tranny lubed while driving. Towed about 40K miles with no problems. My brother currently has his 3rd MH. After much research he bought a Honda Civic and towed it for quite a few years and many many miles. When he bought a bigger MH and finally replaced the Civic, he did lots more research and was torn between a Saturn and an Accord. After driving both, he took the Accord. I see people towing a car with lights strapped to the car trunk and have to laugh. It is a simple matter to make or buy a setup so you can use the cars stop, turn, and tail (running) lights. Just takes a couple diodes in the correct place. * OLX 2.1 TD * Information deteriorates upward. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00023 Date: 01/10/98 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 07:50pm \/To: DANIEL MCCORMICK (Read 0 times) Subj: Question DM>-> You got another reply saying that there might bee too much oil DM>-> in there. You also say here that you had someone do the oil change DM>-> for you. Whoever did it might not be aware of the fact that the 302 DM>-> in your car has two drain plugs, one on each side of the cross member DM>-> (front and back). If they only drained one, especially if they only DM>-> drained the first one, this problem could easily arrise. Look into DM>-> it. How high is the oil on the dipstick? If it's even a 1/4 inch DM>-> above th DM>-> mark, you might wanna look into this. DM>hello Jason and thanks for the reply.... ok, it's not over 1/4 inch.. i DM>drive it everyday 60 miles to work... it purrs along... the drain plugs? DM>would that not leak on the ground? i looked under the car after it sits DM>for 2-3 hours and nothing... i have some velve cover gaskets that needs DM>replaced, and when the oil was changed they put a new oil bolt in, the DM>other one was striped...the car runs like new....this as been going on You know, that is odd. I have been draining my oil for well over 55 years and have yet to strip an oil pan drain plug!!!! DM>for at least 2-4 months.... my question is, will it hurt anything? or DM>should i worry about it? again thanks for the reply... DM>Daniel DM>--- Platinum Xpress/Wildcat! v1.3 DM> * Origin: Crime Bytes 2 - Underwood, Iowa (712)566-2872 (1:285/12) * OLX 2.1 TD * Experience is waht you get just after you need it. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00024 Date: 01/10/98 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 07:52pm \/To: BILL REYNA (Read 0 times) Subj: Question BR> > You know what it could have been? The 302 in BR> > that car has two BR> > drain plugs in the oil pan. One on each side of the BR> > cross member. I BR> > wonder if 5 qts were added to an only partially BR> > drained pan.... BR> [----------^^^^ you said the above ^^^^-----------] BR>Jessszzz, your right because I have a similar car only a '88 Crown Vic. I di BR> think to mention that, but golly you would think they would understand that BR>ecially since they can see clearly there's 2 plugs. The front area of the pa BR>lds roughly a quart or so, yeap that might be it. I hope the org. poster rea I never could get a fill quart from the front part of the pan in my 89 crown Vic. * OLX 2.1 TD * To err is human; to shrug is civil service. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00025 Date: 01/10/98 From: BILL REYNA Time: 11:59am \/To: JOHN FAERBER (Read 0 times) Subj: Injectors > I got under there and I see a plastic ring around the > filter, but no way to get the filter out of the > plastic bracket which holds it in. > What would be your guess as to the cost for a gas > station to replace the filter ifI supply my own? [----------^^^^ you said the above ^^^^-----------] Gee, I don't know off hand, but getting it done at Sears or somewhere similar would tell you or the garage you're thinking about. Yeah, I know it's a simple thing but being too cheap at times costs more. I would think at least $30-45, but you can look at a flat rate book for a price guide, but still I wouldn't be surprised the price would be in the $60 range. Cadillacs are always higher, gee I wonder why. :( FYI - My replacement seems to be more straightfoward(no band, no bucket). It was coupled at each end rather than clamped. Maybe the plastic bucket is nothing more than a shield and it slides off once the uncoupling is done and returns after your replace the filter. The plastic band maybe only a tie-wrap and needs to be cut, once again replacing it for the final install. --- * Origin: Bordertown - Telegram from the Border (1:234/43) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1F00026 Date: 01/09/98 From: GREG KURTH Time: 11:09am \/To: CHRIS ZYCHSKI (Read 0 times) Subj: DODGE DAYTONA CZ>Plus your connection of Roadrunner to GTX (both Plymouths) The Road Runner was based on the Satelite, what was the GTX based on? . --- SLMR 2.0 #1330 NEWS FLASH - Sarah Brady decapitated in dungbeetle attack --- FLAME v1.1 * Origin: Telnet toltbbs.com or call 313-854-6001, Boardwatch #55 (1:234/2) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1G00000 Date: 01/11/98 From: SIMON AVERY Time: 11:16am \/To: JOHN ZORTMAN (Read 0 times) Subj: Laser stops cars Now look here, JOHN SA>> There is a trial underway in Europe that uses a fast, small, radio SA>> control car that's launched from the front of a pursuing police JZ> They're experimenting here in the states (I saw this on cable tv's JZ> Discovery Channel, or maybe it was the Learning Channel) where they JZ> simply use a wide, skinny board with a stiff wire sticking up. Not heard of that one. JZ> Of course he has to be there in time to set it up first, but it IS a JZ> very quick and effective "road block". At least in theory... But what advantages does is have over "Stinger" (A chain with very small spikes that deflate the tyres slowly) apart from bringing it to an end a little quicker? Stinger's been used in the UK for the past 4/5 (?) years and is cheap and very effective. The only downside is that, like you say, someone needs to guess where the bandit car's going to be! Other than that, it's cheap, now carried by a large proportion of patrol cars and has a very high success rate. (When they guess the route correctly!) JZ> The other idea they were playing with involves beaming microwaves to JZ> spaz out the electronics without hurting people, but that didn't JZ> look as promising (at least to me) and is still very experimental. Sounds sci-fi, and expensive. Simon ... JOHN, you're playing the wrong message! --- FMail 1.22 * Origin: Tag-O-Matic - Freq T-MATIC from Origin (2:255/90) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1G00001 Date: 01/10/98 From: ALAN MORRISON Time: 04:24pm \/To: DANIEL MCCORMICK (Read 0 times) Subj: Question -=> Quoting Daniel Mccormick to Alan Morrison <=- -> bubbles, check it again after it has been thoroughly warmed up. -> You may find it is now milky looking, which means water contamination. -> A very small amount may just be normal condensation. DM> driven i checked and it looked like a milky bubbled look...but smells DM> like oil.. the car goes 60 miles almost every day and never over DM> heats... i gave it a tuneup afew months ago and had the oil changed. im DM> going to texas in it, i think it will be ok, but it concernes me, i DM> never seen oil like that before... you say water? how can that be? and DM> will it hurt anything? If you drive it 60 miles every day it probably isn't condensation. The reason it looks milky is because the detergent additives in the oil allow the water to mix, which becomes similar looking to a lotion. Check your coolant level, and if it is losing coolant, it may have a leaking head (or other) gasket. I cannot tell without looking how bad the problem is, so you might want to show it to a mechanic, and let him know if it is losing coolant. He can then suggest other tests, such as checking for combustion gases in the radiator. You can also look for gas bubbles in the radiator when it is warmed up and idling. --- Blue Wave/386 v2.20 [NR] * Origin: River Canyon Rd. BBS Chattanooga, Tn (1:362/627) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1G00002 Date: 01/10/98 From: ALAN MORRISON Time: 04:42pm \/To: STACY FITZGERALD (Read 0 times) Subj: Chevy Nova(Head)wanted -=> Quoting Stacy Fitzgerald to All <=- SF> My brother has a 1976 Chevy Nova 4 door, 250 Automatic that has a SF> cracked head. Does anybody have on or know where i can find one at SF> a decent price? There were millions of the six cylinders made from the early sixties to late 70s, Stacy. But it is getting pretty old now and a lot of wrecking yards are only carrying fairly new parts (2-8 years old). Still, I would call a local wrecking yard and let them know you want one and have them check their nationwide hot-line for it. Another route would be to find large engine rebuilders, like Jasper Engines, and see if they have complete engines or, just the head. Finally, depending on where and how large the crack, some can pin and weld these. They drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it it there, and then weld up the remainder. You may want to check some welding shops, and also local engine or head rebuilders. Look in the Yellow pages under 'Engines, Rebuilding'. I found an AC Delco (GM) Engines listing which is tollfree; 800-468-7387. Jasper Engines is also nationwide, and they have a website; ( www.jasperengines.com ). ... Hope this helps... Maybe someday you can return the favor. ;^) --- Blue Wave/386 v2.20 [NR] * Origin: River Canyon Rd. BBS Chattanooga, Tn (1:362/627)