--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00006 Date: 01/05/98 From: CHRIS ZYCHSKI Time: 02:27am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Hotrod RW> CZ> M.A.R.S. = Military Affiliated Relay System RW>MARS - 4th planet from the sun.. Uranus... -cc * SLMR 2.1a * Great green gobs of greasy grimy gopher guts! --- Renegade v5-11 Exp * Origin: The Bearsville BBS * Warren, MI * (810) 582-9429 (1:120/650) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00007 Date: 01/05/98 From: CHRIS ZYCHSKI Time: 02:27am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Silicone RW> CZ> Okee-dokee... And I'll even wear my KOOL shades, fershur. Har! RW>They still make those? I don't think so. They were standard equipment on '86 Fieros exported to CA. But became so popular they were dropped from GM's options list due to orders outstripping production. Har! -cc * SLMR 2.1a * Happiness is Clinton's picture on a milk carton! --- Renegade v5-11 Exp * Origin: The Bearsville BBS * Warren, MI * (810) 582-9429 (1:120/650) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00008 Date: 01/05/98 From: BILL MITCHELL Time: 03:51am \/To: ROY J. TELLASON (Read 0 times) Subj: Oil pump? BM>> very suceptible to breakdown, and some of the other two oils BM>> don't even use what would normally be called a VI. RJT> What's a VI? Viscosity improver. The best thing I can recomend is finding a copy of the oil FAQ, I might have one, dunno really have to look. Anyway, basically it's a term used to describe additives that increase an oil's high temperature viscosity. For example, a 10W-40 oil has the viscosity of a 10W oil when cold and the viscosity of a 40 oil when at operating temp. These VIs can become a weak point in the oil under severe service, and the oil might then become nothing more than a pile of horse dung. In addition, such oil is in reality a 10W oil with VI added to give 40 performance. (The W means cold pour characteristics, without the W is operating characteristics.) Oil designed for heavy diesel service and/or air cooled motor use by it's very nature is designed with severe service in mind, and VI used is much improved compared to the 10W-40 VI. It's almost as if these oils don't use VI. Besides, the oil is a slightly heavier viscosity to begin with. RJT> I may be looking at something like that, am seeing some RJT> weird behavior in the Monaco since I changed the oil. The RJT> stuff I put in was "Federated" brand, which I am told is RJT> Valvoline, 10W-40. Normally I'd use 20W-50 Castrol, but RJT> for some reason I didn't get that this time around. I'm not familiar with "Federated" brand. It's normal for one plant in an area to blend motor oils and other lubricating oils for a number of brands, in this area the Bayonne Exxon lube plant supplies most of the lube oils here abouts. Each of the individual brands usually will have their own recipie, which not only dictates what additives to use, but what base stock also, there are slight differences. If somebody at the blending rack makes a mistake, though, the result may still meet minimum requirements for the specific type of oil in question, and they will then dump the mistake through some off brand available through any number of outlets. When motor oils still came in paperboard cans, we'd often get miss matched screwed up cans, Exxon case containing mobil oil cans with shell oil tops was one we got once. RJT> Anyhow, I get this stuff, change the oil and filter, and RJT> ever since then I start out okay cold, but after things RJT> warm up a bit my oil light tends to flicker and then come on RJT> when I'm at a slow idle, like sitting at a light or What I'm talking about usually creates sludge, sometimes almost as if there's cardboard bits and pieces mixed in with the oil. RJT> Took a *long* time for that fresh oil that was showing on RJT> the dipstick to look like anything other than fresh out of RJT> the bottle, but it's starting to look pretty bad and I've RJT> only got about 3000 miles on it. Unless you see evidence of water, a brown chocolate mousse mess, or a foamy chocolate milky mess, how dirty the oil gets only indicates that the oil is doing one of it's jobs (I'm ignoring the possibility of having oil like ashphault due to neglect). BUT, the fact that you get an oil light, and that the oil remained clean for a time, may indicate that you have diddly for oil pressure and/or oil circulation. RJT> I'm about ready to get under it again and give it another RJT> change, or something. I can't figure why it would do this. --- * Origin: The Right Place, Fort Lee, NJ USA(201)947-8231 (1:2604/539.11) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00009 Date: 01/05/98 From: TOM WALKER Time: 06:35am \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Engine Wanted -> When you do seriously consider a trailer - a 5th wheel is the most -> practical over a tag a long. I speak from experience. Both for Pulling Forward AND Backing!!! :-) --- GEcho 1.20/Pro * Origin: Jim's East County BBS! El Cajon, CA. (619) 561-8424 (1:202/100) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00010 Date: 01/05/98 From: TOM WALKER Time: 06:38am \/To: SEAN DUNBAR (Read 0 times) Subj: Engine Wanted -> TW> Sounds like your engine is running too rich. FIX it and you woul -> TW> save some Fuel and also not be polluting the atmosphere as much. -> -> Tom, it's not rich; it passed emissions with flying colours last time -> -> it inspected, and was putting out better numbers than some new cars. -> it -> still backfired like a mofo. The check valve on this smog pump is -> bad... Well Before one can have a Backfire in the Exhaust there MUST be a Rich Mixture. And since the Exhaust is After the Combustion process it means the Engine is Running Richer then Necessary for the conditions you are operating it at.! --- GEcho 1.20/Pro * Origin: Jim's East County BBS! El Cajon, CA. (619) 561-8424 (1:202/100) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00011 Date: 01/02/98 From: SIMON AVERY Time: 01:28pm \/To: ROY J. TELLASON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery "Roy and Simon sitting in a tree..." RT> Is this battery one that you can open the caps? If so, see what RT> happens in all of those cells when you're cranking -- one that boils RT> is a sure sign of a bad connection. If that doesn't happen, try RT> putting a charger on it. One cell not bubbling also shows you where a RT> problem is. Handy hint: Don't smoke whilst doing this. The eyebrows still haven't grown back properly... Simon ... "Bother," said Roy as he had Fluffosuction. --- FMail 1.22 * Origin: Tag-O-Matic - Freq T-MATIC from Origin (2:255/90) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00012 Date: 01/02/98 From: SIMON AVERY Time: 01:30pm \/To: ROY J. TELLASON (Read 0 times) Subj: Laser stops cars "Kiptin, Roy's materialised off the port bow!" ML>> Perhaps the car would run over the antenna from the front or perhaps ML>> the antenna could have its own propulsion system to get it under the ML>> target vehicle. The latter sounds more like Buck Rogers. :) RT> This part reminds me of some movie I saw once where a small RC car was RT> driven underneath a vehicle with a bomb on it, with typical hollywood RT> results. :-) Sorry - missed the start of this thread, so if I'm off on a tangent ignore me. There is a trial underway in Europe that uses a fast, small, radio control car that's launched from the front of a pursuing police vehicle. It then scoots under the bandit vehicle and emits a /huge/ voltage through the chassis, which kills everything electrical. (Although I wonder if it would work if you turned off the ignition just before contact?) Initial reports are that it's expensive, dangerous, and there's a cardio risk. (Ie, induction of heart attacks). Still, better than the Norwegian trial. This involves a large harpoon fixed to the police car. (Folded flat) It's hydrualically moved to the "forward" position, and the bandit car is rammed, when barbs stick out and enable the police car to slow down the bandit. Also comes with optional tear-gas dispenser... Simon ... Bother! said Roy, as he took Duncan McCloud's Quickening... --- FMail 1.22 * Origin: Tag-O-Matic - Freq T-MATIC from Origin (2:255/90) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00013 Date: 01/05/98 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 11:19am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Hotrod Roy Witt wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: RW> On, 03 Jan 98 at 13:55, RW> Roy J. Tellason was overheard shouting over the engine RW> noise, saying something to Roy Witt about "Hotrod",: ML>> Close. Military Affiliate Radio System. However, Roy's been a ham ML>> for many years. I bet he knows what MARS means. RW>> I was even there once...:) RJT> Did you sit next to Elvis on that UFO? :-) RW> Nah, he had two blondes with him...:) Well, I guess you can't argue with that! :-) email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00014 Date: 01/05/98 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 11:27am \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Engine Wanted JAY EMRIE wrote in a message to ROY J. TELLASON: RJT> RW> If that's the use you intend for the truck. RJT>It's one of them. I have a back-of-the-truck camper sitting out in the RJT>yar RJT>e, and am thinking about moving to a pull-behind unit later on. JE> When you do seriously consider a trailer - a 5th wheel is the JE> most practical over a tag a long. I speak from experience. Most practical in what sense? Why? I've not done a whole lot of towing, but we did have a pop-up some years back (not that I want one of those again!). The truck already has a class 3 hitch on it, FWIW. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1A00015 Date: 01/05/98 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 11:41am \/To: BILL MITCHELL (Read 0 times) Subj: Oil pump? Bill Mitchell wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: BM> I'm not familiar with "Federated" brand. Ever see "Fisher Auto Parts"? They've been building up in the northeast in the past couple of years, buying out small chains that go under and such. It's their store brand. <...> RJT> Anyhow, I get this stuff, change the oil and filter, and RJT> ever since then I start out okay cold, but after things RJT> warm up a bit my oil light tends to flicker and then come on RJT> when I'm at a slow idle, like sitting at a light or BM> What I'm talking about usually creates sludge, sometimes almost BM> as if there's cardboard bits and pieces mixed in with the oil. Hm, can't say I've seen any of *that*! RJT> Took a *long* time for that fresh oil that was showing on RJT> the dipstick to look like anything other than fresh out of RJT> the bottle, but it's starting to look pretty bad and I've RJT> only got about 3000 miles on it. BM> Unless you see evidence of water, a brown chocolate mousse BM> mess, or a foamy chocolate milky mess, how dirty the oil gets BM> only indicates that the oil is doing one of it's jobs (I'm BM> ignoring the possibility of having oil like ashphault due to BM> neglect). Ok. BM> BUT, the fact that you get an oil light, and that the oil BM> remained clean for a time, may indicate that you have diddly BM> for oil pressure and/or oil circulation. A friend of mine suggested that it's running down a bit too quick (the engine had 170,000 on it when I changed it last, and I'm about 3,000 past that w). I've noticed with 318s that you can't check it right after you shut the engine off, and get any sort of an accurate reading on the dipstick, it needs to sit for a while before it all runs down. Dunno what this has to do with it, if anything... Oh well, I'll either figure it out or get to the next oil change and put something else in there, and see how it goes. Been running with nothing other than Castrol 20W-50 for ages, and never had a problem with it. I guess I shoulda stuck with it this time, too. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615)