--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00043 Date: 12/30/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 12:46am \/To: MARC GERGES (Read 0 times) Subj: Forced Induction MG>Please don't take it personally, but I just find it amusing to imagine you MG>sitting in your car (V8, I guess, and with really big tires) accelerating MG>like a fool over that quarter mile, then throwing the anchor, come to a MG>standstill and let the wheels spin to accelerate again... Don't have 'really big tires' and my car can do just a bit more then just accelerate. I can outbrake an Eclipse GSX as well. MG>As said, I don't want to attack you, but is acceleration really all that is MG>about a car? Such an Eclipse is a lovely car to dart around small mountain MG>roads. Never said it wasn't a fine car, what I did say is its hard to get excited about a 'sporty car' that costs $24,000 and runs low 15s and doesn't handle that well. If 4 bangers are what you want fine, but I'll take a Honda Prelude. The Honda's build quality is better, just as fast, and they handle better. It has enough power, a decent suspension and not too much weight, so MG>it is big fun as soon as the road bends, and if it's still capable to stay MG>in sight of the big V8 car, there seem to me a lot of reasons to prefer it.. Reasons for you to prefer it, not me. My car does not handle badly, drive one, you may be surprised. I'm in no way saying its handling is world class, but it is decent, and for a basically stock car, the power is top-notch. To me, a 158 mph top speed, 0-60 in 5.8 seconds, and 1/4 mile in 14.1 (with auto), .88Gs handling, and braking 60-0 MPH in 112 feet is good all around performance. For a under $1000 in mods these stats have been improved as well, the car is .5 faster in the 1/4 mile, handles better, and should be able to hit 160mph now. You can listen to the little 4 banger wheeze, strain, and whine. I prefer the V8s deep tune a bit more. Also lets talk gas mileage. What is the advantage of a 4 banger when a V8 gets just as good gas mileage? Also, I can get caught in the wrong gear and still acclerate hard, the Eclipse falls flat on its turbo-lagged face if its caught in too high of a gear. --- * OLX 2.1 TD * There's a TV comedy somewhere in all this... --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00044 Date: 12/30/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 12:47am \/To: DON DELLMANN (Read 0 times) Subj: Stupid Mopar DD>Something was SERIOUSLY wrong with that car. I had the 2.2L in an '84 DD>Dodge 600 (heavier than your Aries) and on the average freeway on ramp DD>(even climbing the 5% grade, maximum allowed in the interstate) I NEVER DD>had trouble hitting the end of the ramp at 65 or 70. 0-60 had to be DD>under 10 seconds, I never timed it on 1/4 mile, but I would guess it DD>probably could have turned around 14. Plus, the d*mn thing just wouldn't DD>quit (it had 175,000 on it when I traded it in, It'd been tuned up once.) You are kidding us right? --- * OLX 2.1 TD * There's a way out of any cage. --Christopher Pike. --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00045 Date: 12/31/97 From: BILL MITCHELL Time: 12:23am \/To: MARC GERGES (Read 0 times) Subj: REVERSE QUESTION BM>> I recently went through the New Jersey DMV's official BM>> testing procedure (got my jeep inspected at a state run BM>> station). The parking brake is tested twice. They accelerate BM>> for about 25 feet and the parking brake must then stop the BM>> vehicle. MG> Mmmh... a foot is about 0,3 meters, isn't it? That makes 7,5 MG> m. If strong accelerated that makes about 25 km/h (16 mph). I MG> guess from that speed you could stop the vehicle by putting a MG> foot at and press it on the road :-) Smiley or no smiley, never happen. That's if you want your foot to remain in one piece. They fully apply the parking brake and the vehicle must stop immediately. The test does indicate enough to certify if it could work in an emergency. BM>> They then rev the engine to a moderate speed in drive for an BM>> automatic transmission, parking brake on, and the brake MUST BM>> hold the car. MG> Mmmmh... that depends more on the caracteristics of the MG> torque converter imho. Believe me, he's in the car and he can tell whether or not the brake is holding the car or the torque converter is simply slipping. Of corse the converter is going to slip, but he can tell that's not the reason that the car isn't going to move. Some vehicles will "wind up", move somewhat as the engine will strain against the mounts etc. MG> You don't have a real test? Here to car is driven on a test MG> bed and checked. If the brakes don't pass a certain minimum MG> and are even on both sides, they fail. I was only describing the emergency brake test, I didn't mention either the service brake test nor the fact that while all this is happening they are also testing how equal the braking is and how much there is. BM>> A failure on the brake tests can, in the inspector's BM>> judgement, result in the vehicle being declared unsafe BM>> rather than just the ordinary failed inspection sticker used BM>> for other test failures, MG> Seems correct to me. Some time ago my 1959 Mercury Turnpike Crusier was declared unsafe because the emergency brake would not hold the car against the motor. I could not drive the car away from the test location even though the service brakes passed. While that might have been extreme, it was within his discression to do so. I simply, from years of experience, disagree with your statement that parking brakes, aka emergency brakes, are not designed to stop a vehicle, and are only designed to hold a vehicle from rolling. They are not designed to be used in place of service brakes, but in an emergency, they must be able to stop a vehicle. --- * Origin: The Right Place, Fort Lee, NJ USA(201)947-8231 (1:2604/539.11) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00046 Date: 12/31/97 From: BILL MITCHELL Time: 12:27am \/To: ROY J. TELLASON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery Terminals RT>> Most that I've seen, are still lead, with the exception on RT>> smaller foreign vehicles. MW>> Most, if not all, "lead" battery terminal clamps, which is MW>> what I believe the discussion is about, have a steel core MW>> inside the lead. RJT> Not that I've seen, and I've sure busted enough of them... Opps, shouldn't have said most etc, but should have said some. It's been some time since I've melted them down to do fishing weights, and when I did, many of them had spring steel innards. Maybe I'm mistaken, though, could they have been those boltless dandys GM used at one time? --- * Origin: The Right Place, Fort Lee, NJ USA(201)947-8231 (1:2604/539.11) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00047 Date: 12/31/97 From: JOHN FAERBER Time: 02:34am \/To: SEAN DUNBAR (Read 0 times) Subj: Alrighty. SD> Next.. anybody know of any AFFORDABLE transmission and body shops in the SD> Dallas/Ft. Worth metro area? Going to rebuild the SD> tranny next, then get it Did you check out the 2 I told you about awhile back? --- Maximus/2 3.01 * Origin: * MacSavvy OS/2 BBS * Dallas, Texas * 972-250-4479 * (1:124/1208) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00048 Date: 12/30/97 From: JASON WEDEHASE Time: 09:48am \/To: JEREMY LOWREY (Read 0 times) Subj: Transmission? Jeremy Lowrey told the story like this: JL> I have that 1974 Nova (Oh stop yur groaning already ;) )... right now JL> it's got a small block 350 with a Th350 transmission. The setup really JL> stinks, I dislike having to use 3.08 gears to get a double digit gas JL> mileage. I was wondering what all is involved in swapping in JL> something like the 700R4 to add overdrive, so I can put some JL> more...interesting...gears in the rear end. Thanks... A friend just did that. The two trannies are EXACTLY the same dimensions. He had no modifications. It was about a one hour job. Jason Wedehase strife66@Psynet.net http://www.Psynet.net/strife66 ... Resistance is futile if less than one ohm. ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0154 * Origin: MicroLink BBS * Dinuba, CA 209-591-8753 (1:214/80) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00049 Date: 12/31/97 From: MARK LOGSDON Time: 12:57am \/To: JOHN RANGER (Read 0 times) Subj: ....walkin 'round IN WOME JR> These Defrost grids use 12Vdc....is that as much as they can handle? JR> JR> Would they not Kick a little bit faster in if they started at lets say, JR> 18 vdc? Yep. If the resistance of the grid remained the same, then at 18 volts it would generate about 2.25 times the amount of heat than it would at 12 volts. I can only venture a guess that there is a concern regarding the thermal gradient across the thickness of the glass. If you create more heat on the inside, then you'll increase the temperature gradient. If the gradient gets too high, then you'll run the risk of cracking the glass due to thermal stress. This would be more of a concern when the outside glass temperature was very cold. As I said, this only a guess. Isn't it really called a defogger? Perhaps it's not really supposed to be a de-icer, though it does a very nice job of that on my car. --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0232 * Origin: IBMNet Connection - Indpls, IN - 317-882-5575 28.8 USR (1:231/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00050 Date: 12/31/97 From: MARK LOGSDON Time: 12:57am \/To: ALAN MORRISON (Read 0 times) Subj: Active Handling AM> I noticed that a Ford Escort in the UK is nicer and cheaper than an AM> Escort in the US. As I recall, they were less than $6,000 US dollars, AM> while a 1.9 liter US version, (which is a cheap, entry level car) is AM> closer to $11,000. It gave me a new insight to car prices here, which Is it the *SAME* Escort? Many of the UK cars carry the same US name but are much smaller cars that bear little resemblance to their US namesake. I've found that few items cost less in the UK than in the US. By the way, as for currency exchange rates, 6,000 pounds UK would be about the same as 11,000 dollars US. --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0232 * Origin: IBMNet Connection - Indpls, IN - 317-882-5575 28.8 USR (1:231/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EG^00051 Date: 12/31/97 From: MARK LOGSDON Time: 12:57am \/To: ROY J. TELLASON (Read 0 times) Subj: Electrical loads, battery RJ> TW> Not only that but are of the Very Efficient Three Phase RJ> TW> design enabling them to put out those Higher Current outputs RJ> TW> in a much smaller package. Anybody that has ever seen or RJ> TW> replaced an old 100 Amp engine Generator can testify to RJ> TW> that. RJ> RJ> From what I understand, some of the newer stuff (GM in particular) is RJ> going to a lot more phases than that... Are you saying the new GM alternators have more than three phases? --- QScan/PCB v1.19b / 01-0232 * Origin: IBMNet Connection - Indpls, IN - 317-882-5575 28.8 USR (1:231/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: F1100000 Date: 12/31/97 From: PAT BREEDEN Time: 05:58pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: 12V bulbs/6V system Captain's Log: StarDate=>>> (Wednesday) December 31, 1997 12:58pm Is it ok to use 12v bulbs in a 6v system for the stop lights and tail lights on a 49 chevy truck? I need to put on some of those generic type stop lights and tail lights and I'm wondering if you actually have to get 6v bulbs for them, or can you just use the 12v bulbs that will already be in them. I hooked one up to the 6v battery and it seems to work ok, but I was wondering if I should get 6v bulbs? Thanks, in advance. While I'm here, I have a 1981 Datsun King Cab 4x4 truck. I originally paid $2500.00 for it in 1989 and it ran perfectly for about 6 years, with only the alternator and the water pump going out in all that period, so I can't complain about the old rice-burning work horse. But, now it is rusted out fairly bad (or should I say really bad), with the floorboards rusted clear through and patched up with galvanized roof flashing and the bed of the truck is rusted through on the sides in several places. The gas tank also is rusted out and you can only fill it up 1/2 way or gas will leak out. The head gasket is apparently blown because it has a cooling system problem and it overheats badly and water comes out the exhaust. I was still driving it in that condition and then the clutch went out all of a sudden. The transmission, transfer case, and rear end are still good, so I was just wondering if anybody could suggest a reasonable price to sell it for as a parts car? I was thinking maybe $400 or $500, but I don't really know? There is a possibility, however remote, that I might fix it up, but it's probably not worth it considering all of the rust. I really did like the truck, since it was perfect for my needs driving around on mountain roads getting firewood. It would turn around on a lot of dead end roads a lot more easily than a full-sized truck can and because it was so small and light it was actually better at 4x4ing than the full-sized trucks too. I will probably just sell it though and fix up the old 49 chev truck that I have. The 49 will be more of an investment and any money put into it would be returnable, whereas fixing up the Datsun would just be yet another money pit. The 49 wouldn't have 4x4 drive, but it would work just fine driving around in the summer time and I have another front wheel drive car to use for getting around in the snow anyways. Maybe I should just buy a horse, I don't know? :-) If the Datsun were a horse I'd probably just have to shoot it in the head until it quit kicking to put it out of it's misery at this point I suppose? ;-) ...Pat ... If your horse can count higher than you, you may be a Redneck. --- * TLX v4.10 * --- * Origin: WireHaired Terrier BBS (509)465-9525 FidoNet Node (1:346/5)