--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00003 Date: 12/27/97 From: PETER HARLE Time: 06:23pm \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Electrical loads, battery -=> Quoting Roy Witt to Peter Harle <=- ---snip-- PH> Delco-Remy, Ford, Mitsubishi, Motorola, etc., all stipulate a PH> minimum excitation current via the globe and/or suitable PH> resistor. RW> GM's Pontiac division books also say that as the voltage through the RW> lamp and resistor reach the level of the output it turns on the the RW> Zenor Diode in the regulator and we beget voltage regulation. That's a bit of an over simplification by GM. The zener only turns on when the output voltage of the alternator rises to the level requiring regulation and a reduction in field/rotor current. During starting, the zener would not be conducting causing the regulator to feed most of the indicator lamp current to the field winding. Once the alternator rotor is spinning, the internal excitation diodes (if fitted) begin to conduct and now supply the required field (rotor) current, this in turn cause the lamp to cease conducting. Further increase in rotor speed causes its output voltage to rise, eventually reaching a value which cause the zener to conduct. This in turn causes the regulating transistor (in series with the rotor winding) to switch off. The field current now reduces (via a flywheel diode) and reduces the alternator output voltage. This turns off the zener and switches on the field current again. The cycle repeats its self several thousand times per second depending on the type of regulator, alternator, speed, load and output voltage. The above diatribe is reduced to that stated by GM, probably because the regulator is non serviceable so you wouldn't repair it even if one knew exactly how it operated. (G). Saves printing a somewhat long winded explanation of little value to most repairers, let alone auto mechanics. But for the inquisitive, for what it's worth. Regards Peter H. --- EzyBlueWave V1.20 01fb000b * Origin: Mt.Druitt TAFE +61-2-9839-1310 FidoNet (3:713/709) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00004 Date: 12/27/97 From: PETER HARLE Time: 06:34pm \/To: TOM WALKER (Read 0 times) Subj: Silicone -=> Quoting TOM WALKER to ROY WITT <=- -> If you've got the lid off the equipment, you can spray it right where -> wires connect to the pot. It's called "trickle down lubrication"...n -> same as trickle down economics. TW> A Lot of the High Quality equipment I worked on in the Medical Field TW> had fairly well sealed Pots. Thee was NO opening like of the Cheapest TW> by the wire terminals to dribble(Trickle Down) it into the Pot. And TW> that also just cleaned and Lubricated the Wiper and didn't do much fro TW> the bad connection between the Shaft and the Case. Another point of TW> Noise production. The Adapter enabled easy Flushing out the Shaft to TW> Case area. G'day Tom, Medical electronics equipment and similar high quality professional equipment tend to use better quality components in the first instance. A major factor in the so called "noisy" pots problem, particulalry in audio equipment is due to poor design, read "economic factors". Some (premature) noise problems in pots are caused by allowing DC to flow through the pot. (Not always avoidable) The resultant noise is usually due to the partial breakdown of oxide layers or the use of dissimilar metals between the centre "metallic" wiper connections, not between the carbon resistive element and the actual wiping "fingers", although that too if worn will cause problems. Some low quality pots use plated metallic parts for the centre fixed and moving connections, eventually that plating is partly worn away leading to "crackling" noise in audio equipment and erratic operation elsewhere. The only real cure is replacement of the faulty pot. Spraying a cleaning solution containing a lubricant tends to mask the problem for a while. I've used pots that had thick (2mm) moulded carbon tracks and a carbon wiper "brush". The connections to that brush and the centre electrical connection used low oxidising metals to reduce the possibility of "noise" but their cost ensured they would only be used in critical applications and professional equipment. For what it's worth, Peter H. --- EzyBlueWave V1.20 01fb000b * Origin: Mt.Druitt TAFE +61-2-9839-1310 FidoNet (3:713/709) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00005 Date: 12/28/97 From: SEAN DUNBAR Time: 07:53pm \/To: JOHN FAERBER (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Battery JF> Are the lights dim when the engine is running? If so, I would say it They are if I have the heater or a/c going with the fan on the highest setting. Otherwise they're pretty bright. They do flicker with the stereo, but as far as I can tell, that's normal with the amount of power I'm running (unless I throw a .5 Farad capacitor in there somewhere) JF> eye dropper with little balls in it, draw up fluid from the cell, the JF> # of balls floating tells you how much charge is in each cell. Have to pick one of those up.. --- Telegard v3.09.g1/mL * Origin: tos * 972-818-0339 - dallas texas (1:124/6630) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00006 Date: 12/28/97 From: SEAN DUNBAR Time: 07:49pm \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Heater core. SD> What do I face in doing this...? JE> Lots of work! Been there and done that! That's NOT what I wanted to hear *sigh*. I dumped another can of sealant into the cooling system, and it seems to have temporarily plugged it (for the 4th time in almost 3 years...), though my windows do still fog up a little bit when I use the heater unless I have a window open a little bit.. --- Telegard v3.09.g1/mL * Origin: tos * 972-818-0339 - dallas texas (1:124/6630) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00007 Date: 12/28/97 From: SEAN DUNBAR Time: 07:50pm \/To: JASON WEDEHASE (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Heater core. JW> My mom's boyfriend works at a wrecking yard, I just asked him. he JW> says you haev to remove the cover from the inside, then there are JW> some bolts out on the firewall or something, then it should come JW> out. You might have to get some stuff out of the way, like possibly JW> removing the glove box,but he's not sure. Yeah, was looking under the dash the other night, and it looks like that's exactly what's going to have to happen. It has a cardboard glove box though, and it comes out real easy. I have some speaker wiring up there that's probably going to get in the way though (have tweeters mounted in the dash) --- Telegard v3.09.g1/mL * Origin: tos * 972-818-0339 - dallas texas (1:124/6630) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00008 Date: 12/28/97 From: SEAN DUNBAR Time: 07:51pm \/To: C.A. KLINGEL (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Oil pump? CK> You need to run a thinner oil like a 5W-30. I saw a store brand CK> *SJ* rated oil like that for 87 cents a quart. 5W-30? That stuff would pour out faster than I could pour it in :-/ I did switch to store brand 20W-50 today though. Sick of the starter not being able to turn it over with that 40W in there.. --- Telegard v3.09.g1/mL * Origin: tos * 972-818-0339 - dallas texas (1:124/6630) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00009 Date: 12/28/97 From: ROY WITT Time: 03:21pm \/To: JASON WEDEHASE (Read 0 times) Subj: American Sports Car On, 27 Dec 97 at 21:05, Jason Wedehase was overheard shouting over the engine noise, saying something to Kenny Henderson about "American Sports Car",: JW> Kenny Henderson told the story like this: JW> RW>> If that's the case, the difference is minimal. The Viper has RW>> 275/40x17 tires all around, and the C5 has 245/40x17's up front and RW>> 275/40x17's out back. JW> KH>> I'm pretty sure the Viper's tires are wider then that. Also, you KH>> may want to double check those C5 tire sizes as well. JW> JW> Viper rear = 335/35ZR17. I believe the fronts were the JW> 275/40ZR17s Jason Wedehase That's not what was in the Autoweek report...who's your source.. ... Chevy Sweeps NASCAR Championships - 1996 --- * Origin: Bow Tie Racers, #1, On or Off the Track! (1:202/909.13) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00010 Date: 12/28/97 From: BILL MITCHELL Time: 08:51pm \/To: MARC GERGES (Read 0 times) Subj: REVERSE QUESTION RT>> Then it needs to be adjusted. If the brake works correctly, RT>> it should be AT LEAST as strong as the engine, else it is RT>> not doing its job. MG> The parking brake ist there to keep the car standing, it is MG> not built to brake it or to work against the engine. Most The parking brake has two functions, it serves to hold the car when parked and it is a backup brake if needed. They were called emergency brakes at one time. Drum brakes tend to have less holding power in reverse than disc, but they still should hold. I recently went through the New Jersey DMV's official testing procedure (got my jeep inspected at a state run station). The parking brake is tested twice. They accelerate for about 25 feet and the parking brake must then stop the vehicle. They then rev the engine to a moderate speed in drive for an automatic transmission, parking brake on, and the brake MUST hold the car. A failure on the brake tests can, in the inspector's judgement, result in the vehicle being declared unsafe rather than just the ordinary failed inspection sticker used for other test failures, though except in the case of complete brake failure I doubt they'd declare a car with a parking brake that needs adjustment unsafe. An unsafe vehicle cannot be driven until declared safe and signed off by a mechanic or state inspector, and subsequent reinspection by a state inspector can, in extreme cases, be required. Believe it or not, though, the state inspectors do not examine brake linings, only test performance. --- * Origin: The Right Place, Fort Lee, NJ USA(201)947-8231 (1:2604/539.11) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00011 Date: 12/28/97 From: TOBIAS HEUER Time: 08:53pm \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Which Transmission????? Hello. Can somebody here tell me which damned transmission i have in my car? My Car: 1984 Chevy Caprice Station Wagon, 305cid, 4 barrel Carb. The car has quite a large transmission-oil cooler plus the trailering suspension package. It's an automatic transmission, and feels&sounds like it has 3 gears + automatic overdrive. The transmission oil pan is nearly square but its sides are not "flat" but have many "indentations" (well, I don't think it's the right word for that but....) it looks like this: ---------___----__----- | | \ | | | | | / / | | | | \ \ / | | / | \ | | |_/\______/\_/\_______| I can't find it in the manuals I have. And I have inspected the transmission carefully, I can't find any plates or engravements of serialnumbers or the like... Hard to answer !? thanks. --->[*HEUER*] *THeuer@mailonly.fido.de* --- CrossPoint v4.0 * Origin: *Aaahhhh, der Tod!!!* (2:241/500.6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGY00012 Date: 12/28/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 03:04pm \/To: KEVIN RELKOFF (Read 0 times) Subj: American Sports Car KR>Since when has ABS starting stopping cars faster then none ABS cars? When KR>first heard of them.. THey all said, and did test with them, that ABS cars KR>didn't stop any quicker then a car with out.. It only helped in keeping he KR>car undercontrol. and still be able to steer the Vehicle.. I think a good driver can stop a non ABS car as fast or faster then he could an ABS equipped car. But, lots of people aren't good drivers. They just think mashing the brake to the floor is the way to stop fast. That would just put a car like a Viper into a skid. KR> 122Feet, that's from 60Mph? heh My car can stop from 60km/h in like 1 KR> 3/4 car length in the wet =] You XR7 should stop from 60mph in about 130 ft, which is good. --- * OLX 2.1 TD * There is very little future in being right when your boss --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0)