--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00008 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 03:21pm \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes JAY EMRIE wrote in a message to TOM WALKER: JE> * A flat surface will always have something put on it. Hey! You've been peeking! :-) email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00009 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 03:26pm \/To: BILL MITCHELL (Read 0 times) Subj: RADIATOR LEAK Bill Mitchell wrote in a message to TOM WALKER: BM> I simply did not mention it because I wrongly didn't think of BM> it, almost because "Who in their right mind would use straight BM> water". Somebody who's trying to track down a leak? email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00010 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 04:03pm \/To: TOM WALKER (Read 0 times) Subj: 325i TOM WALKER wrote in a message to KENNY HENDERSON: -> TW> I think some one is FULL OF IT. BMW didn't import a V-6 in 1986. -> TW>In fact I don't think they even were manufacturing their V-6 -> engine -> yet. -> -> Do they make any V6s? I thought all the 535Is, 325Is, M3s, etc were -> inline 6s. TW> That is Right, they were, They have a V-8 and a V-12 though TW> but NO V-6. At least as of last years models. I was at a car show once, and glanced into the back of this truck sitting there... Once I realized what I was looking at, I didn't blame them for not wanting to move it out of there -- it was a V-16 engine! Dunno who made it or what it was supposed to go into, though. I'll bet that thing had one *hell* of an interesting power curve! email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00011 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 04:10pm \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Electrical loads, battery JAY EMRIE wrote in a message to ALL: JE> Thought again, No Problem, I'll just disconnect the battery JE> cable. JE> Shocker! The blasted thing just sat there and idled and idled JE> away for about 10 minutes. Proves that the late model cars with JE> alternators WILL run without a battery. The problem with this is the potential for damage to computers and other electronic parts. Try that sometime with a scope on the battery positive line, especially if you have one that's got a peak voltage indicator... <...> JE> Also, I have a 550 CCA @ 0 degrees battery/750 CCA at 32 JE> degrees. That second number might be "CA", but it _ain't_ CCA, which by definition is at zero degrees. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00012 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 04:13pm \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Windchill factor JAY EMRIE wrote in a message to ALL: JE> The definition of Windchill factor is as follows:(all emphases JE> mine) JE> Windchill factor n. The >apparent< temperature felt on the JE> exposed human body owing to a combination of temperature and JE> wind speed. JE> One of the definitions of apparent is: ostensible rather than JE> actual. JE> The definition of ostensible is: outwardly >appearing< as such; JE> professed; pretended. JE> Absolutely nothing to indicate that the windchill factor JE> actually< makes the body colder - just that it makes the body JE> >FEEL< colder. In view of the above definitions (look them up in JE> any >good< dictionary) all the statements that the windchill JE> factor makes >anything< actually colder than it really is (by JE> thermometer measurement) are incorrect! JE> I will agree, however, IF there >is< external moisture on the JE> body and the wind blows across the body, the skin temperature JE> will go down some finite amount UNTIL the external moisture is JE> evaporated, then the skin will return to its regular JE> temperature (that is, without external moisture evaporating) - JE> in other words evaporation DOES cause cooling only so long as JE> there is something to evaporate. Also, the skin will eventually JE> reach the temperature of the wind if nothing is done to protect JE> it - that's how people freeze to death! JE> Summary. Windchill factor is nothing but a way of expressing JE> our greater discomfort when it is cold AND the wind is blowing JE> as opposed to just being the `same cold' without any wind. JE> Also so much for car radiators getting colder because of JE> windchill factor. If there is no moisture on the OUTSIDE of the JE> radiator to evaporate the radiator will not get colder (freeze) JE> because of windchill factor - but will only get to a certain JE> temperature because of the actual temperature and the heat JE> transfer. More air flowing across the radiator will cool the JE> coolant inside more but the windchill factor has no bearing on JE> this. I've wondered about this, too. But heat transfer out of a radiator seems to depend on two factors, one being the difference in temperature between the coolant fluid and the outside (ambient) air, and the other being the rate at which air is flowing past that radiator (wind?). I have an air-conditioner that crapped out a while back, the thing would start to work but it seems that this stupid little plastic fan that they had on the outside coil broke, right around the hub, and the heat transfer out of it just wasn't good enough to let the thing keep running. If the evaporation of moisture was the only mechanism that got rid of heat, then I'd be in total agreement with what you're saying up there, but it isn't. Conduction from the radiator to the nearby air also plays into it. I *do* think that while wind chill may have some effect when an engine is hot, it doesn't have any bearing whatsoever on what happens when a vehicle is just sitting there not running. Since the whole thing is at ambient temperature anyhow, there's no difference, and therefore no heat transfer when the wind is blowing. So if you've gottten your antifreeze a bit diluted (trying to find the leak, ferinstance) and it only protects to 20 degrees F., it could go down to 25 with real nasty winds and you'd still be okay. Reaching ambient temperature, though, ain't something that normally happens with a human body, or at least you sure don't want it to, so in that case you'd *always* have to worry about it. And I don't think that the evaporation of moisture comes that much into play in that circumstance either. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00013 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 04:21pm \/To: JAY EMRIE (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes JAY EMRIE wrote in a message to RONNIE THOMPSON: RT>older houses....and even then it is HIGHLY suggested to replace that RT>wiring, RT>due to fire hazards. For the cost of platinum, it would be WAY to RT>expensive JE> I NEVER heard of that recommendation! Think about it. One JE> would have to tear out much of the inside walls just to get JE> to the wiring. In our area the wiring is normally stapled to JE> the studs so just pulling it out is impossible. The problem JE> with using aluminum wiring was the reaction between the JE> aluminum wire and the metal of the various fixtures it was JE> wired to. Electrical codes REQUIRED the use of LARGER JE> aluminum wire to offset the lower conductance of the JE> aluminum. The codes also mandated the use of a antioxicant JE> paste (one was called "nocorrode") to prevent the dissimilar JE> metal reaction. JE> What WAS recommended was the replacing of all outlets JE> using cu/al fixtures, and the adding of copper pigtails with JE> the use of an anti corrosive substance (commonly called JE> "NoCorrode" on the aluminum/copper wire junction. This JE> supposedly made the aluminum wiring compatible/safe. I had JE> to do this in my house. JE> So, been there and done that! If anybody wants it, I have a pretty comprehensive file on this here: ALUMINUM.ZIP 3184 04-17-96 [ 1] Aluminum Wiring in Residential Properties files: fileserv%tanstaaf@frackit.com email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00014 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 05:21pm \/To: GARY SPRINZL (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes Gary Sprinzl wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: RJ> Then there were the RV batteries someone once brought me to take a look RJ> at. RJ> They were bought in Arizona, apparently, and when I popped the caps the RJ> interior of the batteries were full of what appeared to be styrofoam RJ> pellet RJ> It was the weirdest thing I can remember running across in that job... GS> Exide used to do that in the late 1980s in batteries like GS> the Heatbeater, etc. I don't remember these being Exide, offhand. And I'm *sure* they weren't that old, not likely they were any older than '92 or so, since I didn't start running that battery store until January of '93, and stopped in late '95. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00015 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 05:35pm \/To: JACK NELSON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes Jack Nelson wrote in a message to Roy Witt: RW> If you clean those connectors where they've been soldered and then RW> coat with something like nail polish, they won't oxidize as fast RW> as if they were left uncleaned and left to the elements. JN> Even better would be to coat them with grease or an electronics JN> contact cleaner/protectant because their surface won't break JN> and let in air, and they can be applied to the battery posts JN> and terminals before assembly. No! You wanna apply that stuff, or any other anticorrosion stuff, *AFTER* you make the connection. You don't want grease or whatever in between two surfaces that are supposed to be making a connection to each other, you want a nice clean metal-to-metal connection there... email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00016 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 06:26pm \/To: JAMES ARNOLD (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery Sizes James Arnold wrote in a message to Peter Harle: PH> Granted, 10 years ago there was very little current drain from > the battery once the ignition switch was turned off. These days, > particularly with weight conscious Japanese and European car > makers, the battery size is generally only the minimum acceptable > for general driving habits. JA> Among cars sold in the U.S., it's not the Japanese makers JA> but mostly GM that has switched to smaller batteries with JA> lower A-H ratings. Toyotas still tend to use size 24F. That one was often listed as "optional", with the slightly smaller group 35 being more typical... email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGU00017 Date: 12/23/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 06:28pm \/To: CURIOUS GEORGE MEHNER (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery Terminals Curious George Mehner wrote in a message to All: CGM> Why do cars now have battery terminals made of steel instead of CGM> lead, as in the old days (I'm referring to top terminals, not CGM> side)? I both the posts and terminals should be made of the CGM> same material to minimize corrosion? Did industry switch away CGM> from lead terminals because batteries don't leak corrosive CGM> fumes as much as before? What vehicle are you talking about here? Most of what I saw out there when I ran that battery store was lead, excepting the import stuff which were plated copper, for the post-type terminals. And just about all of the side terminals were plated copper as well, unless they'd been replaced by some aftermarket units, in which case they were often lead as well. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615)