--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00028 Date: 12/15/97 From: RON TAYLOR Time: 02:10pm \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Chevy Van RW>11 Dec 97 15:12, Ron Taylor said this about Chevy Van to Anyone. RW> RT> Got any ideas what might be wrong with my engine???? RW>On the distributor, there is a 5 to 7 wire plug that connects the CPU with r >module inside the distributor. I've found this connection to get dirty nd >cause the symptoms you discribe. Periodically, I remove mine and use an >electrical connnection cleaner and blow it dry. Sounds like what Jay recommended. Saturday, it gets a going over. Thanks, Ron --- QMPro 1.02 42-7029 Politicians & diapers...Change often...Same reason * Origin: Crime Bytes 2 - Underwood, Iowa (712)566-2872 (1:285/12) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00029 Date: 12/15/97 From: RON TAYLOR Time: 02:13pm \/To: BILL REYNA (Read 0 times) Subj: Chevy Van BR>Check the distributor wiring/harness at the cap end. The harness has a histo >of breaking/cracking right at the entry sleeve point. Either inside or t, And dirty contacts at the same place according to others. I'll use my 6x jewelers visor and check for cracks when I clean the contacts. >what looks good is a minor crack whick leaks the spark onto the istributor >side. Reckon I'd see a spark jump if I checked it in the dark? > The cure is to replace the magnetic p/u assy. which has the harness, >for a solid fix. While your at it check the whole distributor as "wobble" fr >wear&tear can cause some fluky problems besides the above. Also, the coil ca >be "prone to heat" but suaully when it goes it just quits, but sometimes t >does a "long death" before the final one. Don't be too quick to blame the >computer but don't rule that out as the shop should have figured that one ou >good luck -_-_-Bill Good suggestions... I understand that _usually_ the computer either does or it doesn't. I'm more familiar with the aforementioned ignition parts so thats where I'll start. Thanks, Ron --- QMPro 1.02 42-7029 Who elected her??????? * Origin: Crime Bytes 2 - Underwood, Iowa (712)566-2872 (1:285/12) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00030 Date: 12/16/97 From: RON TAYLOR Time: 11:36am \/To: ALAN MORRISON (Read 0 times) Subj: Chevy Van AM>-=> Quoting Ron Taylor to Anyone <=- AM> RT> My '90 full-sized Chevy conversion van runs a bit rough > RT> intermittently. Occasionally the "CHECK ENGINE SOON" light comes on AM>When the CHECK ENGINE light comes on a code should be stored in the ECM >(computer) memory. It will be erased if power (battery or ECM fuse) is >removed for more than a few seconds. I won't quote your whole post Alan, but it was great stuff... just what I was looking for.... printed and ready to check out my van come Saturday. Thanks for the info. Ron --- QMPro 1.02 42-7029 Why can't you find a tagline when you need one? * Origin: Crime Bytes 2 - Underwood, Iowa (712)566-2872 (1:285/12) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00031 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 01:16pm \/To: JAMES ARNOLD (Read 0 times) Subj: Antifreeze ML>JA> ML> Hey, just fill your radiator with straight antifreeze and you ML>JA> > won't need to worry about distilled vs deionized...:) ML>JA> ML>JA> Unless you have a Ford. Ford may deny a warranty claim for engine ML>JA> damage if the antifreeze concentration exceeds 60%. Ford has built I just finished going through my 1992 Ford Crown Vic. Owners Manual and also the Warranty Information Booklet. NOWHERE does it say the warranty will be voided if the antifreeze concentration exceeds 60%. It just says maintain the coolant between 40% and 60%; below 40% may allow freezing, and above 60% may cause engine to overheat on a warm day. Further states, " Outside this range you may lose corrosion and rust protection for the metals in your cooling system." Also states the coolant provides lubricant for the water pump. I would think that IF you had a damaged engine due to overheating and they found over 60% antifreeze you would surely be out of luck. Of course, with the 2 yr 24000 mile warranty you aren't too likely to have a problem INSIDE the warranty period - They say the original coo lant is supposed to last 30000 miles or 3 years. * OLX 2.1 TD * Cars depreciate real fast when a neighbor buys a new one. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00032 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 11:13am \/To: MIKE S. WELCH (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes MSW> -=> Jay Emrie wrote to Ronnie Thompson <=- MSW>RT> I never known of anyone to use Aluminum as a conductor, other MSW>RT> than in some older houses....and even then it is HIGHLY MSW>RT> suggested to replace that wiring, due to fire hazards. MSW>JE> I NEVER heard of that recommendation! Think about it. One would MSW>JE> have to tear out much of the inside walls just to get to the MSW>JE> wiring. MSW>JE> What WAS recommended was the replacing of all outlets using cu/al MSW>JE> fixtures, and the adding of copper pigtails with the use of an MSW>JE> anti corrosive substance (commonly called "NoCorrode" on the MSW>JE> aluminum/copper wire junction. This supposedly made the aluminum MSW>JE> wiring compatible/safe. I had to do this in my house. MSW>The first home equipped with aluminum wiring, back in the late 1940s, MSW>still has it, and an inspection done at the height of controversy MSW>over aluminum wiring showed that everything was OK with that house. I have no idea where that is. However, it has positively been proven that aluminum wiring connected to NON AL/CU fixtures can and has caused house fires because of overheating at connection because they actually worked loose, where copper to copper does not (when properly installed). The exception proves the rule I suppose. * OLX 2.1 TD * Poop deck: The bottom of a bird's cage. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00033 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 11:14am \/To: MARK LOGSDON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes ML>RJ> I have a bunch of gels and two RV batteries and a group 34 sitting in ML>RJ> the room here at the moment, that I have to see to every so often. ML>RJ> Like every couple of months or so. One of these days I'm gonna set up ML>RJ> some kind of an automatic charging system for them. ML>Yeah, I just pulled the battery from my lawn tractor for the winter. ML>What I really need to do is to design an electronic regulator for my ML>tractor's alternator. It charges at about 15.0 volts or a little ML>higher and tends to boil the battery dry. Little late aren't you? :-) * OLX 2.1 TD * Make the most of the best and the least of the worst. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00034 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 11:16am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes RW>15 Dec 97 10:28, JAY EMRIE said this about Battery sizes to ROY WITT. RW> RW>> Try using a piece of paper (typically .003 thick) to set your RW> RW>> points. It'll t...the dwell won't be what it should be, but it'll RW> RW>> start..want to get it in right ball park, use a match book cover RW> RW>> (typically .015 thick)...As long as points make and break contact, RW> RW>> the engine should start. RW> JE> RW> JE> Why use anything. Just eyeball it and it will work till proper feeler RW> JE> gauges or dwell meter is available. RW>It's been many a year that I could see .003 with the naked eye. A piece f RW>r insures there is a gap. It also insures that the little tit that is usual RW>n worn point contacts isn't touching. And a match book cover gets it almost RW>near as a feeler gage. Guess I can see a mite better than you! I always filed that tit off - even used a fingernail file a few times. * OLX 2.1 TD * Yield for any vehicle larger than your own! --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00035 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 01:34pm \/To: GARY SPRINZL (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Battery sizes GS>GS> When an alternator is charging a very low battery, it is maxing out on GS>GS> amps. Like anything electric/electronic, if you leave it running at 100% GS>GS> for an extended time, parts will overheat. Among the parts that can fai GS>GS> if overheated include (but are not limited to) the diodes and voltage GS>GS> regulator. GS>MG> You must have quite a bad alternator. GS>No, that's true with all electronics. Run three amps through a transistor GS>rated at 3 amps continuously, and it'll eventually fail. GS>MG> I commute daily for a couple of miles, temperatures about 0 Celsius rig GS>MG> now. Pre-glow the car, burst it into life, and then the whole rchestra GS>MG> lights, often wipers, heating and window defrosting, radio... the only t GS>MG> in the car that doesn't need electricity is probably the engine :-) GS>I take it you have a diesel. Ignition systems typically add a 25-30 amp dra GS>on the charging system. That's 30 amps more than you have on yours. Beside I do not know diddly about diesels, but on my 92 crowm Vic the TOTAL current drain with the engine idling is ONLY 3.1 or 4.1 Amps, can't remember for sure, but regardless far less than 25-30 amps. I can't seem to find the file I reported this fact in this conference about a couple weeks ago ( and the locking myself out!) GS>the alternator in a car is designed to provide more than all of the electric GS>components in the car will drain (though this is not always the case). GS>However, go adding things like RF amplifiers (240 watts @ 12 volts = 20 amps GS>and since the typical linear amplifier has an efficiency of 45-50%, that's a GS>40 amp draw from the charging system) and see how many alternators you start GS>going through. GS>GS> Shop manuals recommend charging a battery with an external charger if it GS>GS> has been severely drained of power. GS>MG> And then they offer you a nice charger for a small price, don't they? :) GS>I've never seen a charger offered by either Mitchell's, Motor or Chilton, bu GS>then, maybe I'm missing something. ;) GS>GS> This is the same reason why you shouldn't jump-start another car with GS>GS> your engine running. GS>MG> The only way to start another car is with your engine running. If you do GS>MG> your battery has to power two starts... GS>No, that is not the only way to do it. It is if you have cheap wannabe jump GS>cables. If you have the proper jumper cables, i.e. 4 gauge or better, hen GS>you can start a diesel without your engine running. But then, what do I kno GS>I only used to do this professionally, as a part of my tow-truck duties. GS>The proper way of jumping a car, as described in the car's owner's manual, i GS>to start your engine and run it for a few minutes, to charge the other car's GS>battery, then shut it off and attempt to start the other vehicle. GS>So, your battery has to power two starts? That's what SHOULD happen. GS>Starters can draw 2 to 300 amps on a warm engine, more than that cold. GS>Imagine what can happen to a poor little alternator if you attempted to un GS>that much current drain through it. GS>|10 o ________ |04Gary / Black Lightning -- Silicon Speedway BBS GS>|10 /L|\______/| |07ITC * Crossover * Infinet * Q-Net * BlueNet * Fido GS>|10>> |________| |01Always Pushing The Envelope * |09enforcer@inficad.com GS>--- GEcho 1.20/Pro GS> * Origin: Dale Earnhardt: Looking for 8 in 1998!+6024649676 (1:114/511) * OLX 2.1 TD * Everyone wishes they'd known everything sooner. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00036 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 01:41pm \/To: MARC GERGES (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: Battery sizes MG>Salut JAY! MG>MG>> Both battery and alternator are 8 years old and don't behave like hey MG>MG>> suffe MG>MG>> plan to quit in the next time. And I don't know why... as long as the MG>MG>> regul MG>MG>> works correctly, the battery has enough water and you don't draw some MG>MG>> megaw MG>MG>> for the car stereo system, why should anything go wrong? MG>JE> Why should anything go wrong? Simple, old age gets just about every MG>JE> thing sooner or later. MG>Yes, but in this case later, I think :) MG>JE> With a battery that old and temps that low, you MG>JE> are overtempting fate. I'd run, not walk, to the nearest battery store MG>JE> and get a new one. MG>Why change a perfectionally working battery? MG>As soon as it shows signs of age, I'll change it. Not a day before. Well, that's your call. However, I well remember one VERY cold winter day in Belleville, IL. I came home from work, parked the car. A few minutes after I got inside my wife had me go to the store to get some baby formula. Hopped in the car, went to the store, parked the car, went in and got the formula, came out 3 minutes later and ZIPPO!. Not even a click when I tried to start. Net result - BAD BATTERY!. Had to put a new one in. To add insult to injury, I had to call for service because the only tool I had was my voltmeter. Had removed the tool box to do work inside the house. From that day on I do NOT tempt fate at least as far as batteries are concerned. * OLX 2.1 TD * W [0M 䏀. GV mM0 D. --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00037 Date: 12/17/97 From: JAY EMRIE Time: 03:06pm \/To: MARK LOGSDON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes ML>JE> ML>I believe the idea is to use the running car (let's call it car A) ML>JE> ML>to do some charging of the low battery (on car B) for a few inutes. ML>JE> ML>Then after some charging, turn off car A's engine, leave the cables ML>JE> ML>connected, and try to start car B. The idea is to use ONLY car A's ML>JE> ML>battery and car B's battery and NOT to use car A's alternator. ML>JE> ML>Otherwise during starting of car B, you might draw too much current ML>JE> ML>through the diodes in car A's alternator and cause a failure. I've ML>JE> ML>never seen it happen, but that's the prevailing wisdom. ML>JE> ML>JE> Mark, I don't think your analogy will float. I've been there and done ML>JE> that. Tried to jumper a car with a dead battery. The jumper cables got ML>JE> too hot to touch in just seconds. Turned out the car battery that was ML>JE> "dead" actually had a direct INTERNAL short. Didn't affect my battery ML>JE> alternator one iota (that a bit of recharging didn't correct). ML>What analogy? All I'm stating is what I've read as the conventional ML>wisdom nowadays. I've been there and done that many times myself, ML>and like you I've never had a problem. On the other hand, why not ML>be safe rather than sorry and do the starting with the engine off? ML>Consider the situation. You install your jumper cables on the dead ML>battery while your engine is running. The voltage immediately drops ML>across your good battery since it is now supplying current to the ML>dead battery. The alternator begins to supply more current since it ML>senses the lower voltage. This is heating the diodes in the ML>alternator. ML>Next you try to start the dead car, further more increasing the load ML>and the current out of the good battery. That causes another ML>voltage drop and even more current out of the alternator. By this ML>time the alternator is probably delivering about as much current as ML>it possibly can. Will you fail the diodes? Probably not, but if ML>they're degraded and near failure, this might be the straw that ML>breaks the camel's back. ML>As I said, I usually do jump a dead battery with my engine running, ML>so I seldom follow this advice. Obviously I don't believe it is ML>such a serious scenario as has been described. I'm just relaying ML>what seems to be the conventional wisdom. ML>However, I'm amazed at the number of people who insist that this ML>scenario "just can't be possible" because they've not damaged their ML>alternators. I wonder if these same people would conclude that a ML>drunk driver moving at 100 mph is safe just because they once ML>survived such a trip with such a driver. Just for Grins! We know that high speeds do have an effect on the human body. Take for example the day the police pulled over a car of Catholic Nuns on Route 25 for going too slow. The police officer asked the driver, the younger nun, why she was driving too slow for the conditions of the road. She had been going about 25 M.P.H. in a 5O M.P.H. speed zone. She said to the officer that she thought the 25 sign was the speed limit. The officer explained that , that was the route sign. He then observed the other nuns shaking in the back seat he asked what the matter with them was. She stated that they had just come off of 114 in Danvers, MA and they were still shaking from going 114 M.P.H. * OLX 2.1 TD * Frozen diet dinners are good:but get 2-they're small --- RemoteAccess 2.50+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23)