--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00009 Date: 12/17/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 02:46am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: BMW vs Corvette RW> KH> Yup and I read Caddie is going FWD in the near future. I think the RW> KH> Northstar will eventually make its way into the FBody. RW>You won't like this. My AUTOWEEK Buyers Guide suggests that the F-body RW>will be either restyled in 2001 or will be going away. Depends on sales n RW>the next 2 years. If they do cancel the F-body, buy all the F-bodies you RW>can afford if you want to continue to drive them. I just heard that a few days ago from a GM employee. R&D has not started yet for a 5th gem FBody. The LS1 FBodies run very strongly, hopefully that will help sales. --- * OLX 2.1 TD * them back where they came from. --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00010 Date: 12/17/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 02:48am \/To: ROY WITT (Read 0 times) Subj: Bugatti RW> RW>> All of this in a car that outweighs most of the competition by a few RW> RW>> hundred pounds, and a price tag well under those exotica cars. And RW> RW>> fuel milage of 20.6mpg in an overall performance test. RW> KH> RW> KH> The C5 is not as heavy as you think. I am 99% sure its lighter then RW> KH> a Supra Turbo and a 300ZX turbo. RW>3218 pounds curb weight. A Supra Turbo is 3450 and a 300ZX TT is somewhere around there as well. The NSX is quite light, right around 3000 lbs if I remember correctly. The RX7 is very light, something like 2700 lbs. Mitsubishi's 3000GT VR4 is a portly 3950lbs.... --- * OLX 2.1 TD * then again, all good things must come to an end. --Q. --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00011 Date: 12/16/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 11:11pm \/To: JOHN PUMMILL (Read 0 times) Subj: FORD 302 VS SBC 305 JP> Good deal, everyone needs to thrash at least one Cobra. I like the Cobras, but the guy driving it is an as%hole. He likes to burn out in the main parking lot and rev his engine all the time. People like that need to be beaten:) JP>KH> would have JP>KH> been nice to see the look on his face as I dropped a 1.9 JP>KH> short time on JP>KH> him and left him spinning his tires trying to catch me:) JP> I hear they have severe traction problems. I think just about any American V8 does. We nailed it on the highway, so traction never came into play.... --- * OLX 2.1 TD * The youngest one liked girls. huh huh huh. --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00012 Date: 12/16/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 11:13pm \/To: JOHN PUMMILL (Read 0 times) Subj: FORD 302 VS SBC 305 JP>KH> Whats wrong with the 3 series styling? That style is JP>KH> heading into its JP>KH> 7th year and it still looks fresh and modern. You are too JP>KH> concerned JP>KH> with looks IMHO:)....Seriously here, do you think your 325Is JP> You are LOST. We were talking Supra and NSX, the 325 has nothing to do JP>with it. Quit changing directions. :) Anyway, the old body style stuck JP>around for awhile and still looks good. I have seen nothing to indicate JP>they will change soon. Don't even debate the NSX/Supra Turbo with me. I'm too stubborn:) --- * OLX 2.1 TD * The `H' stands for horrible, right? --Lister's Confidence --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00013 Date: 12/16/97 From: KENNY HENDERSON Time: 11:16pm \/To: JASON WEDEHASE (Read 0 times) Subj: Re: FORD 302 VS SBC 305 JW> DW> Nah... LT1 makes about the same power as the Cobra... And I'd prefer JW> Huh? Whats confusing about that? --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Their home was destroyed during a tornado. --Data. --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Fresh Start BBS * Edison NJ * (732) 248-1678 * (1:107/310.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00014 Date: 12/17/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 07:38pm \/To: MARK LOGSDON (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery Sizes Mark Logsdon wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: RJ> Still, a person that does a lot of stop-and-go driving around town, RJ> especially around this time of year when lights and wipers and heater RJ> motors are going to be loading things down too, are going to end up RJ> cycling their battery a bit deeper and wearing it out sooner than a RJ> person who puts nothing but highway miles on their car. ML> Stop and go? Do you mean stop the engine and restart it? Yeah. I mean lots of little short trips, like shopping at assorted stores, etc. with lots of use of the starter and lots of accessories for the alternator to power so it takes a bit longer to pull the battery back up to full charge, etc. ML> I don't see why simple braking would cause a huge load on the ML> battery, except for the brake lights. Nope, that's not what I was referring to. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00015 Date: 12/17/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 07:40pm \/To: RONNIE THOMPSON (Read 0 times) Subj: SEARS CAR BATTERY! Ronnie Thompson wrote in a message to Christopher Tarana: -=> Quoting Christopher Tarana to John Ranger <=- JR> Then if you take the charger off and let it sit for an hour, it CRAWLS JR> when you turn the key. CT> You have a short that's draining the battery to ground. Pull RT> It would seem like a short that will drain the battery in an RT> HOUR would be a mighty large short. Not necessarily. We're not talking about draining the battery completely, only about taking it across the threshold of being able to start, then not. RT> What circuits would be that much of a drain, one that would not RT> be visible?? Perhaps a starter that has a leak, and is pulling RT> voltage?? Not likely. CT> all the fuses in the glove box, (Yeah, I hate to do it too, but this is CT> cheap, fast and effective!) Remove the postive cable from the battery CT> and place a voltage meter in the circuit, red to the cable, black to CT> the battery post. Now replace the fuses one by one till you get some CT> sort of voltage showing on the meter. Now you know which fuse circuit CT> is shorted, you can figure out which item on that circuit is giving you CT> a problem. RT> Yet, you will have SOME fuses that will have a voltage going RT> across them all of the time. I'd suspect with the amount of RT> drop that battery is experiencing, it would be a large voltage RT> reading, not just any voltage reading?? Actually, for that particular test you shouldn't read more than six volts (on a 12 volt system, of course). I had a '67 Fury at one time that had all sorts of new stuff put into it, and the battery kept dying. I kept on having to get it jump started, and couldn't figure out why for a while. Two things were a part of the problem. One was that the voltage regulator had been replaced, and had not been adjusted to charge at idle (this was a mechanical type, sorta like a relay with one single coil). The other was that there was a trunk light and the bracket holding the switch had bent, allowing the light to stay on and continue to discharge the battery for long periods of time. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00016 Date: 12/17/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 07:46pm \/To: JOHN FAERBER (Read 0 times) Subj: Engine Wanted John Faerber wrote in a message to Ronnie Thompson: RT> What are you considering as being "late model"??? I didn't think they RT> had RT> used either the 318 or the 383 in a LOT OF YEARS!! Am I wrong?? JF> The 318 was used in the Dodge Diplomat police cars, and was JF> made until '89 or thereabouts. My favorite engine... I've had *real* good luck with them. Currently driving a '77 Monaco with 173k on one, have another one in a '75 Dart that's going to be put into a '78 truck as soon as I can get the rest of the parts I need, and I've owned a couple of others as well. *REAL* reliable engine, once you get past the usual small stuff that you gotta deal with. Here's a question, maybe some folks can clarify this for me -- if you look in a bunch of the books that you can get on these cars (Chilton, Motors Manual, etc.) at engine specs, the '70 Dart I had was rated at 230 HP for that engine, while the '75 was rated at 170 HP! Can anybody explain to me just what exactly it was that they did to change the engine and lose all those horses? Is there stuff I can do to reverse that? Or would I be better off just getting another engine and building it up from scratch? email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 246 AUTOMOTIVE Ref: EGM00017 Date: 12/17/97 From: ROY J. TELLASON Time: 07:52pm \/To: DON LEWIS (Read 0 times) Subj: Battery sizes Don Lewis wrote in a message to William Mastop: WM> I'm looking at batteries, and just don't understand the size WM> descriptions and such on them. For a 12 vote car battery, what WM> are sizes like 63, 62, 64 etc referring to? DL> The size numbers describe only the physical dimensions and DL> the locations of the terminals and their type. Size has DL> practically nothing to do with the electrical capacity, and DL> high numbers do not necessarily mean a bigger or stronger DL> battery, as shown below (electrical ratings are outdated): DL> Group Dimensions Weight Cold Cranking DL> Reserve Size (LxWxH) (Lbs.) Amps DL> Capacity DL> ------------------------------------------------------------ DL> --- DL> 24 10.5 x 6.9 x 8.8 36 600 115 When I had that battery store we had Group 24 batteries in 350, 400, 450, 525, and 675 CCA ratings. All weighed different amounts, too... Never saw a 600, that I can recall. email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com --- * Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-432-0764 (1:270/615)