--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DF200000 Date: 10/27/96 From: BRUCE LEGRANDE Time: 12:23am \/To: SEAN DUNBAR (Read 3 times) Subj: Patching holes following up a message from Sean Dunbar to Cloyce Osborn: CO> I'll tell you a little secret. If you go to a commercial CO> communications store (a real radio store, not a Radio Shack), they'll CO> be glad to sell you a handfull of rubber plugs made to patch antenna CO> holes in sheet metal. I once bought a Wildlife Department pickup I didn't catch this whole thread, but I'll add my two-cents and hope it might stir the inventive juices. The father of my first girlfriend used to restore old cars and he used to 'lead' up any holes he found. I'm sure you could find the procedure for this in almost any restoration manual (or perhaps here ;). IMHO, I've tried the body-putty, the fiberglass, and the plug way - none of which have worked very well. The putty always seems to expand and contract differently than the surrounding metal and eventually the hardened surface (paint) 'orange-peels' occur. The fiberglass is not as bad, but a bear to work with. I've used both the rubber and the metal plugs, both of which let in just enough moisture to rust the metal around the hole, plus the rubber ones harden with time and become brittle - a quick fix if you don't want to do any repainting and don't mind the visible signs of 'plugged' holes. The only method I haven't tried myself (other than the lead) is wire-welding, but I'm going to try that to close up the sliding window cutouts in the side of my panel-van. I heard that it takes special equipment and a steady hand but lasts the life of the vehicle and since it's metal, it works to a smooth OEM finish nicely. Whatever you decide - good luck... All the Best to you and yours, Bruce LeGrande NC2003 --- GEcho 1.11+ * Origin: Covenant Keeper Network Server - Lake Co. CA (1:2003/7) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DF300000 Date: 11/02/96 From: CLOYCE OSBORN Time: 03:32am \/To: BRUCE LEGRANDE (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Patching holes CO> I'll tell you a little secret. If you go to a commercial CO> communications store (a real radio store, not a Radio Shack), they'll CO> be glad to sell you a handfull of rubber plugs made to patch antenna CO> holes in sheet metal. I once bought a Wildlife Department pickup BL> I didn't catch this whole thread, but I'll add my BL> two-cents and hope it might stir the inventive juices. That's why we're all here isn't it? Jump right in with the rest of us. BL> The father of my first girlfriend used to restore old cars BL> and he used to 'lead' up any holes he found. I'm sure you BL> could find the procedure for this in almost any BL> restoration manual (or perhaps here ;). Ahh, I know HOW to do it. Problem is getting me motivated to do it (although a lug wrench properly applied across the top of my head will usually work - kinda rough on the lug wrenches, though). BL> IMHO, I've tried the body-putty, the fiberglass, and the BL> plug way - none of which have worked very well. The putty BL> always seems to expand and contract differently than the BL> surrounding metal and eventually the hardened surface BL> (paint) 'orange-peels' occur. The fiberglass is not as BL> bad, but a bear to work with. I've used both the rubber BL> and the metal plugs, both of which let in just enough BL> moisture to rust the metal around the hole, plus the BL> rubber ones harden with time and become brittle - a quick BL> fix if you don't want to do any repainting and don't mind BL> the visible signs of 'plugged' holes. You're absolutely right on all counts. Remember, though, that I was fixing up a 'working' pickup for my hired hand to use when feeding the cattle. I wasn't interested in a "show" truck (he'd have destroyed it in about two months). BL> The only method I haven't tried myself (other than the BL> lead) is wire-welding, but I'm going to try that to close BL> up the sliding window cutouts in the side of my panel-van. BL> I heard that it takes special equipment and a steady hand BL> but lasts the life of the vehicle and since it's metal, it BL> works to a smooth OEM finish nicely. Actually, wire welding is the easiest form of welding. For sheet metal (or even thin plate), it's a breeze. Beats the heck out of stick type arc welding. Now, if you're wanting to weld a plate into the side of a battleship, you'd better go get the stick welder. BL> All the Best to you and yours, Likewise. May the wind always be at your back, the trail downhill and the Indians looking the other way. Regards. Cloyce. --- EZPoint V2.2 * Origin: Res Ipsa Loquitur, Indian Territory (1:147/34.13) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DF400000 Date: 11/03/96 From: MIKE HILL Time: 09:24pm \/To: CLOYCE OSBORN (Read 3 times) Subj: Wire Welding On <02 Nov, 03:32>, Cloyce Osborn wrote to Bruce LeGrande : CO> Actually, wire welding is the easiest form of welding. For sheet metal CO> (or even thin plate), it's a breeze. Beats the heck out of stick type CO> arc welding. Now, if you're wanting to weld a plate into the side of a CO> battleship, you'd better go get the stick welder. How hard is it to learn this wire welding? What are the differences in the MIG, TIG, etc, and which ones can be used with and without adding a gas? What are the differences in the Argon or the carbon dioxide and when would it be appropriate to use each? What is your opinion on the 115 volt wire welders which sell for about $500? Are they any good, or would I need a 220 volt odel selling for about $750? I want to learn, and to do sheet metal and body repairs, but I wonder if I am trying to learn too much too fast. Your comments or ideas are welcome. - Pedit Ver 2.6 Best Regards, Mike Hill ...Let us run with endurance the race that is set before us. (Hebrews 12:1) --- * Origin: The GOOD News BBS, Chattanooga TN, 423-698-0407 (1:362/112) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DF500000 Date: 11/04/96 From: CLOYCE OSBORN Time: 01:36pm \/To: MIKE HILL (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Wire Welding MH> On <02 Nov, 03:32>, Cloyce Osborn wrote to Bruce LeGrande : CO> Actually, wire welding is the easiest form of welding. For sheet metal CO> (or even thin plate), it's a breeze. Beats the heck out of stick type MH> How hard is it to learn this wire welding? What are the differences in the MH> MIG, TIG, etc, and which ones can be used with and without adding a gas? MH> What are the differences in the Argon or the carbon dioxide and I've used CO2 exactly one time and couldn't tell a whole lot of difference between it and Argon. The only function of the gas (as I understand it) is to prevent rapid oxidation of the new weld so the welder can keep the electrode (wire in this case) moving and not stick the electrode to the work stock. You use much lower welding currents with wire (which is why you can weld thinner stock). Learning to wire weld is a snap. MH> What is your opinion on the 115 volt wire welders MH> which sell for about $500? Are they any good, or would I MH> need a 220 volt model MH> selling for about $750? I want to learn, and to do sheet metal and body MH> repairs, but I wonder if I am trying to learn too much too fast. I'm not real impressed with the 115V units. If you can (financially), go ahead and spring for the 220V type. Play with it for a while (welding old scrap body metal, frying pans, the dog - if you can get it to hold still - or whatever and get familiar with the process). Just remember to turn the gas bottle OFF when you finish! :-) MH> Your comments or ideas are welcome. Hope they've helped. Regards. Cloyce. --- EZPoint V2.2 * Origin: Res Ipsa Loquitur, Indian Territory (1:147/34.13) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFJ00000 Date: 11/13/96 From: JACK HANNAH Time: 7:03am \/To: JONATHAN GUY (Read 3 times) Subj: Oxidized paint -=> Jonathan Guy mumbled this to All <=- JG> I own a black '91 F-150, the paint is oxidized and even cracking in JG> small circles on the hood...I've been told about a new (to me anyway) JG> product on the market called Touchless, has anyone had any experience JG> with this? Is there any kind of terrible long-term after effects I JG> need to know about? Before you do anything talk to your dealer. I don't know all the details (maybe someone here does), but Ford had a problem with their paint and was taking some responsibility for this. It was something to do with using the wrong primer at the factory. I think 20/20 did a show on this. Ford was paying for partial paint jobs and in some cases a whole paint job if you yelled enough. This is all I can tell you, maybe someone here has more info. Or talk to someone at your dealer, maybe they will help. Good Luck Jack ... Then, quite suddenly, and all at once, nothing happened. ___ Blue Wave/DOS v2.30 [NR] --- --- InterEcho 1.19 * Origin: Aim for service, not success and success will follow. (1:253/112) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFJ00001 Date: 11/11/96 From: SEAN DUNBAR Time: 03:45pm \/To: JONATHAN GUY (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Oxidized paint JG> I own a black '91 F-150, the paint is oxidized and even cracking in JG> small circles on the hood...I've been told about a new (to me anyway) JG> product on the market called Touchless, has anyone had any experience JG> with this? Is there any kind of terrible long-term after effects I JG> need to know about? Touchless won't do anything for cracked paint. FWIW, I used it on my 1980 F-150 (very very minor oxidation) and it made it look worse, if anything. I used it on my dad's old 83 Olds Delta 88 (brown), which was faded and oxidized so bad the hook looked white, and it did a wonderful job. Only after effects I've noticed is it really dries up your hands. Team OS/2 / pandemonium@aip.net / http://www.aip.net/~pandemonium/ --- Telegard v3.02/mL * Origin: the other side / 915-590-3817 / break on through (1:381/95) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFJ00002 Date: 11/11/96 From: MIKE HILL Time: 10:20pm \/To: MATTHIAS KNAPPIK (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Wire Welding On <09 Nov, 20:55>, Matthias Knappik wrote to Cloyce Osborn : MK> MH>> How hard is it to learn this wire welding? What are the MK> MH>> differences in the MIG, TIG, etc, and which ones can be MK> MH>> used with and without adding a gas? What are the MK> MH>> differences in the Argon or the carbon dioxide and Thanks for the reply. I am the originator of this thread, hence the initials MH... MK> co2 20-30 dm MK> co2 dry 50 dm MK> corgon 100 dm MK> argon min 200 dm Relating the above to USA prices, I come up with CO2 $6, and Argon $40. So I can see which one I will be using to practice with. I still have not urchased a welder, but am looking around for a used one first. MK> i don't know the prices over there but a good welder in germany costs MK> about 1600 DM. The prices here in the states seem to be about $700 for a good unit, not sure on the duty cycle, but thanks for mentioning I should check that. I sure on't want to wind up with one permitting only 30% duty. After you finish the weld, and grind the spot, do you fill the joint with lead, or do you use plastic body filler? I can find many old pickups around here, but was afraid of the extensive body work they needed. I spotted a 1952 black chevy only blocks from my house recently. I think I can buy it for about $200-$300, but it needs floorboards, fender repairs, and many other things. Now if I just had my garage in place instead of having to work outside... - Pedit Ver 2.6 Best Regards, Mike Hill ...What we laugh at reveals our character. --- * Origin: The GOOD News BBS, Chattanooga TN, 423-698-0407 (1:362/112) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFJ00003 Date: 11/09/96 From: MATTHIAS KNAPPIK Time: 08:55pm \/To: CLOYCE OSBORN (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Wire Welding Tach Cloyce, MH>> On <02 Nov, 03:32>, Cloyce Osborn wrote to Bruce LeGrande : MH>> How hard is it to learn this wire welding? What are the MH>> differences in the MIG, TIG, etc, and which ones can be MH>> used with and without adding a gas? What are the MH>> differences in the Argon or the carbon dioxide and let me put in a word or two here. 1. stick welding is used, where no gas can be used. wire welding or as we call it here mig-welding needs gas to prevent the material from oxidation during the actual welding process. as different types of gas there are argon corgon (argon co2 mix) co2 dry co2 just to name the standard types. argon in a pure form ist used for alloy welding. corgon is used for the normal workshop type welders to weld bodywork, sheet metal, thin plates or minor steel construction. co2 dry is used in major steel construction, on strong material and outdoor projects. co2 you will need for drawing beer. :-) no joke. over here the prices are as follows: same bottlesize each: co2 20-30 dm co2 dry 50 dm corgon 100 dm argon min 200 dm on outoor projects the gas pressure has to be higher (to prevent it from blown away by wind), therefore the ammount of gas needed is greater. for this reason cheaper gas ist used. on bodywork it is not only important to prevent the material from oxiding, but also prevent it from bruning away that easy. therefore the mixture argon an co2 dry is used. this is more expensive, but usefull when the material is thin or dirty. normal co2 that is used for drawing beer can be used for welding, if nothing esle is availiable. but the welder starts spitting and the work is fairley tricky and needs a bit of skill. so for major steel construction co2 dry is availaible, wich is co2 especially reduced in moisture ( less than 3% i think ). car bodywork with co2 dry is possible but needs skill and a very accurate adjustment of current to material strength.. ordinary workshop jobs are normaly done with corgon. allmost everything can be done with this type of gas, but it is a bit more expensive than the co2 type. in my workshop i use a migwelder with 170 A and corgon gas for all kinds of metal welding ( no alloy :-( ) MH>> What is your opinion on the 115 volt wire welders MH>> which sell for about $500? Are they any good, or would I MH>> need a 220 volt model oh oh... over here these kinds of machines are sold in supermarkets. its no fun ! to do car bodywork 150 A are minimum! for alloy there is a minimum of 200 A. it is not only the max. current but also the max. time of usage. these supermarket machines have often switchedon-time rates of 30%. that means that the actual welding time may only be 30% of the total time. that is good for spot welding but no good for longer jobs like steelwork. my welder is an 180 A 60% by 400 V what is the normal workshop equipment. i can use it even for steelwork and construction work. real welders wich run all day work often with 400 A, 80%, 400V and an extra fan for cooling the machine. CO>I'm not real impressed with the 115V units. If you can CO>(financially), go ahead and spring for the 220V type. Play i don't know the prices over there but a good welder in germany costs about 1600 DM. everything else is shit. at least here. MH>> Your comments or ideas are welcome. i hope, that i could bring in some usefull information even not from america ;-) bit bald Matthias Telebim 05042 989020, Fax 989023, BBS 989024 --- CrossPoint v3.1 R * Origin: Die OLDTIMER BOX 05042 989024 (2:241/1130.12) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFJ00004 Date: 11/10/96 From: JONATHAN GUY Time: 01:36pm \/To: ALL (Read 3 times) Subj: Oxidized paint Greetings All... I've been "lurking" for a couple weeks and have a question. I own a black '91 F-150, the paint is oxidized and even cracking in small circles on the hood...I've been told about a new (to me anyway) product on the market called Touchless, has anyone had any experience with this? Is there any kind of terrible long-term after effects I need to know about? Thanks --- Maximus/2 3.01 * Origin: River Canyon Rd. BBS Chattanooga, Tn (1:362/627) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 245 OLD TRUCKS Ref: DFK00000 Date: 11/13/96 From: MATTHIAS KNAPPIK Time: 08:50pm \/To: ALLE (Read 3 times) Subj: ? two stroke diesel Tach zusammen, some time ago, i was asked about four and two stroke engines. in this discussion we taked about a diesel engine as two stroke. there are sucht engines! so i started inquiries but not too sucessfull. i asked the cummins company but they never built two stroke diesel. but they told me, that detroit diesel builts such engines. but they never answered my faxes :-(( so does anybody here in this round have information about twostroke diesel engines ? i could use drawings, pictures, tec.descriptions. i would even download such stuff from overseas. there are engines with and without valves. how do two-stroker work with valves? how do they work at all? how about the precompression of a twostroke - how is this made with diesel? questions and questions. does anybody have connections to detroit diesel? bit bald Matthias Telebim 05042 989020, Fax 989023, BBS 989024 --- CrossPoint v3.1 R * Origin: Die OLDTIMER BOX 05042 989024 (2:241/1130.12)