--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2400007 Date: 02/02/97 From: TRACEY PROVINCE Time: 02:28pm \/To: DAVID RUSS (Read 2 times) Subj: Oscars -> I feed mine Goldfish and they love them also, I am going to buy a 55 -> gallon tank and try to breed them but have to make sure they are -> different sex! Thanks for the help and feel free to chat anytime -> you wish! Hi David, Just thought I'd jump in and say hello to a fellow Oscar-owner. => I have a 55 gal. tank, got it a little over a year ago. My red tiger oscar (named Big Gulp) is about 11 inches long now. Feb.11th will be two years of having her. At first I fed her feeder guppies (she was just a tiny thing then), then I started her on feeder goldfish, a couple every day, plus some pellets. Then after I got the 55, I started just putting the whole dozen in at once, and she ate them at her leisure. But the last batch I got have been there for 6 months! They're HUGE!!!!!! Go figure. I guess she's just lost the taste for them. Eats pellets like crazy though. :) So tell me more about your oscar. What kind is he\she? Do you have any other types of fish, other tanks? I forgot to mention, in the 55, we also keep two plecos (one red, one common), a black shark, and the 5 leftover feeders. I also have a 2 gallon with a betta, a 20 with various tropicals, a 29 with 3 rainbow cichlids and the usual corys, and a 10 with fancy goldfish, just for kicks. :} So, if ya wanna chat some more..... Trace --- QScan/WC v1.18b / 01-0688 * Origin: * The Pit BBS - Parkersburg WV - 1:2210/30 * (1:2210/30) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2400008 Date: 02/02/97 From: TRACEY PROVINCE Time: 05:52pm \/To: JOHN PALYO (Read 2 times) Subj: algea Hi John, I, too, had that nasty stuff growing in two of my tanks. One had greenish, cloudy water, none on the sides, and one had clear-as-day water, but a very green film on the glass. Here's what worked for both of the tanks. AlgaeCide! But the real way to use it, is... dose the tank as directed, then turn off the hood light and cover the tank *completely* for two days, lifting it only to feed them, if you must. Then in two days, re-dose the tank, and leave it covered for another two days. This will starve the algae of the thing it needs most, light! When you take off the cover (I used a bath towel), you should have a clear tank that will stay that way. :) Cya Trace --- QScan/WC v1.18b / 01-0688 * Origin: * The Pit BBS - Parkersburg WV - 1:2210/30 * (1:2210/30) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2500000 Date: 02/01/97 From: JIM FOLEY Time: 07:35pm \/To: JAMES MCGRAIL (Read 4 times) Subj: Some exotic Plecos -=> Quoting James Mcgrail to All <=- Hi James! JM> Zebra Pleco - $29 (2") - $100 (4") - nocturnal & very timid but Maybe it is do to location, but in Red Deer the one they have is going for $80 for a 2 incher. Apparently they usually go for close to $200. I was told that there were enough counted in the wild this year that more allowed to be exported than usually. They are quite an attractive fish. See ya ... NEW FISH? No honey, that fish has been there for months! --- FMailX 1.02 * Origin: ERIDU BBS - Red Deer, AB Canada (403) 342-1548 (1:3417/20) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2B00000 Date: 02/05/97 From: WILLIAM MASTOP Time: 07:47am \/To: JOHN PALYO (Read 2 times) Subj: Re: algea JP> effect it had .......and I try and get some plecos also JP> , how many do you recomend I have a 39 gallon tank? I think you will find that a pleco is very industrious, and one will be quite adequate. William --- Maximus/2 3.01 * Origin: William's, Vernon B.C. 28.8 604-549-2409 24hrs free (1:353/385) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2B00001 Date: 02/05/97 From: CHRIS HOTTE Time: 02:30pm \/To: JOHN PALYO (Read 2 times) Subj: algea Answering a msg of , from John Palyo to All: === === Prophylactics for Algae Algal spores are everywhere and will always be present in an aquarium unless drastic measures are taken. For fish only tanks, a properly set up ultraviolet sterilizer will kill algal spores in the water and prevent them from gaining a toehold. For planted tanks, this is not a good solution since the UV light will also oxidize trace elements needed by the plants and will limit the plant's growth potential. Unfortunately, conditions that are good for growing plants are also good for growing algae. Fortunately, plants will usually out-compete algae for the available nutrients. However, if there is an imbalance of nutrients, algae will opportunistically use whatever is not used by the higher order plants. Different algae will utilize different nutrients, causing sporadic outbreaks of new algae types in apparently stable tanks when a temporary imbalance occurs. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. To avoid introducing a new algae type to a planted tank with new plants, a simple bleach dip seems to work well. Mix 1 part bleach in 19 parts water and dip the new plant in it for 2 minutes. Immediately rinse the plant in running water, then immerse it water containing a chlorine remover to neutralize any remaining bleach. This will kill the algae and only temporarily slow down a healthy plant. Plants in poor condition may succumb to this treatment, but they probably would not have lasted anyway. === === Chris Hotte, FidoNet: 1:249/146 email: chris@novatech.on.ca ... If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried. --- GoldED/386 * Origin: The Serpent's Egg * Kingston, On (613)547-3851 V34 * (1:249/146) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2B00002 Date: 02/05/97 From: CHRIS HOTTE Time: 02:33pm \/To: JEREMIAH GAEFKE (Read 2 times) Subj: Aquarium glass Monday February 03 1997 07:58, Chris Hotte wrote to Jeremiah Gaefke: CH> Saturday February 01 1997 00:01, Jeremiah Gaefke wrote to All: JG>> how to make fish tanks. Please send me a reply. A 50-200 gallon JG>> tank would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance. CH> Hmm.. I have some plywood tank designs. I captured this text file from this echo earlier last year sometime. === Begin Plytank.Txt === How To Build a 100 and a 240 Gallon Plywood Tank Your first step is to assemble all of the materials listed on the materials sheet accompanying this article. When buying plywood, it is recommended that you purchase it from a lumber yard that also has a good mill shop. Unless you are unusually talented in woodworking or cabinet making, I do not advise you cutting your own lumber since the bottom and end sides must be cut very accurately. Any irregularities from end cutting will present serious problems when the aquarium is assembled. The tank must first be assembled using the finishing nails to hold it together while drilling the screw holes. The 100 gallon tank can be put together by one person, but the 240 gallon will require two people due to the bulk and weight. Start the construction by selecting the bottom of the tank. For the 100 gallon aquarium, this is the 21" x 46 1/2" peice, or in the 240, this is the 24" x 94 1/2" sheet. Stand the bottom on edge and make certian that the "A", or good side, is placed on the inside of the tank. Take one side piece and place it over the edge of the bottom and secure it with two or three finishing nails. In order to allow for easy removal, do not drive the finishing nails in all the way. Make absolutely certian that the pieces are in perfect alignment. When this has been completed, repete the process for the other end piece. Next, take one of the 24" x 48" pieces and place it over the partially assembled bottom end. Line it up and secure it in place with the finishing nails. Do not drive the nails in all the way. Repete the process on the other side. You now have two strips of plywood left. These pieces are 48" long and will have to be cut so that they are also 46 1/2".the accuracy of this cut is not important and can be don at home. Square it up and fit it inside the top lip of the tank. Repete this process on the other side. Now draw a straight line 3/8; from all edges on both sides and the bottom side of the end. Then, starting from about 2" from the end of all the lines, make a pencil mark every 3". This mark will be where the screw holes are drilled. At most lumber companies and discount stores you can buy a drill with a countersink attached. Ask the clerc to provide you with the proper size for a #10 screw. If you cannot find a drill with an attached countersink, it will be necessary to but a seperate one. This should not be necessary, however, since the combination unit is readily available. Once obtained, drill all the holes that you have indicated with a pencil mark. Do not drill too deeply. The head of the screw, when set, should be approximately 1/16' below the surface of the wood. Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as it was, then disassemble the unit. Shake out the sawdust and sand off any irregularities caused by the drilling. Do not over sand and change the contour of the wood. Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as you assembled it before, paying attention to your assembley indicator marks. This time, however, a bead of Elmer's waterproof glue is applied. The finishing nails can now be driven in all the way and the tank screwed together. It is very tiring and slow, tedious job if you are using a standard screwdriver and not an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment. The screws are staggered between the 2 1/2" and 3" length screws. Start the row with a 2 1/2" screw and then alternate. Be sure that the tank is perfectly aligned before completing the final assembly. Wipe off the excess glue before it hardens. Once the glue has hardened, the next step is to cut out the front for the insertion of the glass. It is only necessary that a 2 1/2" lip be left on the front side, so draw lines in 2 1/2" from all sides. If you desire rounded corners, use a soup can in the four corners and draw the necessary curve. Drill a hole on the inside of the line of sufficient width to allow the insertion of a sabre saw. Go slowly and cut out the front of the tank. Don't force the sabre saw by going too fast --- takingyour time will result in a nice, even cut. Have someone hold up the plywood as you complete the cut to avoid the weight of the inside panel tearing the lip. If you didn't make the cut as even as you would like it, now is the time to sand it down and improve its appearance. On the cut ends of the plywood there will be gaps of holes inherent in the manufacturing of this product. Fill in these holes whenever noticed using plastic wood. When dry, sand the filled edges to a smooth finish. Shake all the sawdust out of the tank and dust it carefully. A vacuum cleaner hose with a brush attachment makes the job easier. You can finish the fine dusting with a tack cloth just prior to painting the inside. The best paint I have found is Pratt & Lambert which is readily available. Be sure to but Gloss Activator since it produces a much better finish for this use. Do not use any paint that does not require the mixing with an activator. There are Paints that don't require mixing and have the word "epoxy" on their label but they are totally useless for this type of work. you must use an epoxy paint that utilizes an activator, or catalyst. When mixing, follow the directions and mix only enough for one coat. Once the paint is mixed, it cannot be stored and must be used within a few hours. It is only necessary to paint the inside and the edges with epoxy unless you want to---it is only a waste of money. After painting the first coat, allow the tank to dry for 24 hours, then recoat. Some aquarists use only two coats, however, I prefer three coats. The latter would be a must if you are going to use the tank as a marine aquarium. The 1/2 gallon of paint is enough for three coats. After the final coat of paint is dry, many aquarists put a light beading of silicon aquarium sealant in all corners. In most cases this is not necessary but applying it will serve as insurance against leakage, should there be a bubble or crack in one of the corners. The final step is the insertion of the glass. Cut the end of the silicone aquarium sealant spout to its widest opening. Place the tank with the cut side down and run a continuous bead of silicone aquarium sealant all around the lip. Center the silastic so that it is about 1/2 way between the edge and the sides of the tank. Take the glass, tilt it and set it on top af the silicone bead. Press it frimly down on all edges. It is a good idea to take a couple of pails of water, or other weights, and set on top of the glass to keep pressure on the silastic until set. Let it cure for a few days, then remove the weights. Trim off the excess silicone sealant, if any, and test the tank. This is accomplished by filling with water, then if no leaks appear, drain the water and the tank is ready to be put in service. Should any leaks occur--an unlikely occurence---a little silicone aquarium sealant will quickly seal it. If the aquarium is to be used in the basement fish room, a coat or two of latex paint will be satisfactory for the exterior. If, however, it is to be used in a more formal setting, the tank can be faced with stained or varnished paneling or other desired finish. This is an economicial way to aquire a large tank. Given proper care, the life of your new tank should be a lengthy one. I have 100 gallon tanks that were built 20 years ago and are still in service! Materials and Supplies: 100 Gallon Tank 1 piece 3/4" x 4' x 8' Exterior plywood A-C 1 piece 1/4" x 22 " x 46" glass 55 flat head wood screws #10 x 2 1/2" 55 flat head wood screws #10 x 3" 1 can plastic wood 2 tubes clear silicone aquarium sealant (10.7 oz) 1 qt. Pratt & Lambert Polyguard epoxy coating 1 qt. Pratt & Lambert Gloss Polyguard Activator 1 small bottle Elmers Waterproof glue 20+8p. finishing nails 1 can lacquer thinner (cleaning hands, brushes, etc.) Miscellaneous Supplies: Drill, countersink, 1/2" dia. variable speed electric drill, screwdriver attachment, small sander, sandpaper, hammer, cheap paint brushes and caulking gun. Materials and Supplies: 240 Gallon Tank 2 pieces 3/4" x 4' x8' Exterior plywood A-C 1 piece 3/8" x 92" x 22" glass 2 2" x 4" x 96" select and srraight pine, free of large knots. 90 flat head wood screws #10 x 2 1/2" 90 flat head wood screws #10 x 3" 2 qts. polyguard 2 qts. activator 1 can plastic wood 1 bottle Elmers waterproof glue 3 tubes Silicone Aquarium sealant 30 +8p. finishing nails 1 can lacquer thinner Miscellaneous Supplies: Same as listed for 100 gallon aquarium ______________________________________________________________ | | | | | | | | | | | 24" | | | | | | | | | | | t | | | | length | | | o | | | | | | | | p | 24" side | 24" side | 21" |___________| | | 48" | | | Bottom | | | | s | | | | | | | t | | | | 21" side | | | r | | | | | | | i | | |------------| | | | p |_____________|______________|____________|___________|___|___| cuts for 100 gallon ______________________________________________________________ | 94 1/2" bottom | | | | | | | 24" | | | | | | | | | |______________________________________________________| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 24" side | 24" side | not used | | | | | |_____________|______________|_______________________________| ______________________________________________________________ | | | | | side | | | | | |____________________________________________________________| | | | | | | side 96" | | 24" | | | | |____________________________________________________________| Last 2 are cuts for a 240 gallon tank === End Plytank.Txt === Chris Hotte, FidoNet: 1:249/146 email: chris@novatech.on.ca ... Asking whether a message is off-topic is itself off-topic. --- GoldED/386 * Origin: The Serpent's Egg * Kingston, On (613)547-3851 V34 * (1:249/146) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: E2B00003 Date: 02/06/97 From: JAMES MCGRAIL Time: 10:51am \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: Another Pleco FAQ 1/4 I'm posting another Pleco FAQ, in it's entirety, since it does address some of the questions, I've seen lately. Jim -------------------------------------------------------------------- From: BOB HALL (Where I got it from) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Folks, I found the following interesting FAQ posting about the ubiquitous plecostomus on the Internet and thought you might find it interesting. The author asked for proper credit, but failed to provide his or her name, so all we have is an Internet address to thank for the info. Sysops or anyone saving this file, please use the name PLECO.FAQ --Bob INTERNET: bob.hall@drs.state.ct.us ----------------------------------------------------------------- Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria Subject: Pleco FAQ/FACT file (3rd revision) Message-ID: <1994Oct1.163038.30415@miavx1> From: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Cogito cogito, ergo cogito sum.) Date: 1 Oct 94 16:30:38 -0500 Organization: Miami University Lines: 300 PLECO FAQ/FACT FILE (No.3) September 22, 1994 FILE (No.2) August 15, 1993 FILE (No.1) July 28, 1993 Disclaimer: This project began because I was very dismayed by the lack of even basic info on plecos in books and magazines. In an attempt to learn more through library research, I became even more dismayed by the conflicting information books had on species identification let alone basic dietary needs and breeding techniques. Use this FAQ/FACT file at your own discretion. I have done alot of research, but cannot confirm/deny much of this information simply because I do not have enough experience keeping these fascinating fishes. Frankly, I don't think anyone does. Note: All scientific information contained herein is brief, to the point, and as close to 100% objective as possible. 1) Introduction 2) Scientific Introduction 3) Taxonomic Information 4) Care and Feeding 5) Net Curse - Why're they called "pl*cos"? 6) Reproductive Information 7) Bizarre Behavioral Characteristics 8) Bibliography 9) Exotic Varieties (Supplemental) 1) Introduction: The word "pleco" is used to describe any one of hundreds of fresh- water suckermouth catfish species from the tropical and subtropical rivers of Central and South America. Many people buy these oh-so-ugly-they're-cute fish because of their reputation for eating algae and scavenging food scraps off the aquarium floor. But this FAQ/FACT file is intended to show that these fish aren't just aquatic janitors anymore! Recent imports of new, exotic, colorful (and very expensive) species have been making a new name in the hobby for these spectacular fish. This file is also an attempt to deal with questions that often arise on the *.aquaria newsgroups concerning plecos. If after reading this file, you have suggestions for improvement, or have valuable info to add, please email me: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu. (If there is enough interest generated, I'll post this from time to time and all information from previous FAQ/FACT files is included in subsequent FAQ/FACT files.) If you have questions for me...make them as specific as possible! I promise you my email replies will *NOT* be of the same quality/quantity as this file. 2) Scientific Introduction: Plecos, ottos, and whiptail cats all belong to the same family, LORICARIIDAE. The family LORICARIIDAE is subdivided into dozens of genera and each genus may contain another dozen species and sub-species. To make things a bit more complicated and confusing, there is a wide range of disagreement on the scientific classifications of many of these genera and species, and many fish are continually being reclassified. One type of pleco may go by several different trade names...and one trade name may be given to several different pleco species. It's definitely a mess, and there is *plenty* of need for more scientific research on these critters! Some loricariid genera (most are considered "plecos") are: - ancistrus - panaque - chaetostoma - peckoltia - farlowella - plecostomus - hemiancistrus - pterygoplichthys - hypancistrus - rineloricaria - hypostomus - scobinancistrus - leporancistrus - sturisoma - loricaria - xenocara - otocinclus 3) Taxonomic Information: The Loricariidae are unique among fishes in that they possess an iris-lobe...which enlarges or contracts the pupil to control the amount (Continued to next message) --- ViaMAIL!/WC4 v1.30e * Origin: Xanth BBS - Wildcat - Sacramento CA 916-264-1826 (1:203/996)