--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBF00019 Date: 07/09/96 From: ALLAN TOMKINSON Time: 01:52pm \/To: SAM MCDANIEL (Read 4 times) Subj: Re: discus >> Other than now. I've got a new red turquoise discus >> that sprints arund the tank hitting things HARD every >> few hours. All my ph's and everything are fine. I >> can't figure out what the prob is! > >Humm. How new, is new? It may be just nerves from a >recient move. Could be a change in pH from what is was used >to. Cholorene or ammonia levels arent up are they? Any >other fish with it in the tank? Just some thoughts... I've had him for about 2 months now. He's in a tank with 1 smaller discus, 1 weird catfish (never could find out the name of it, but he's a calm fish) and then a couple neons... No cholorene and ammonia is ziltch... > >If its a real new addition, on a vague outside hunch, I would >treat the tank with hexamet as a precaution...all things being equal... > Was thinking of doing that. Got to anyways before I put him in the main k. --- SLMAIL v4.5a (#0226) * Origin: The Big Byte BBS 704-279-2295 (1:379/301) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBF00020 Date: 07/09/96 From: GREG STEEVES Time: 06:23pm \/To: WILLIAM MILBERGER (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: info on making your o Hello William I finally found that article on building tanks I told you I'd find. As it turns out The article is from 1987, so I guess my tank has been running longer than I thought! The mind is the first thing to go right? Anyhow here it is, I hope it helps you out. How To Build a 100 and a 240 Gallon Plywood Tank Your first step is to assemble all of the materials listed on the materials sheet accompanying this article. When buying plywood, it is recommended that you purchase it from a lumber yard that also has a good mill shop. Unless you are unusually talented in woodworking or cabinet making, I do not advise you cutting your own lumber since the bottom and end sides must be cut very accurately. Any irregularities from end cutting will present serious problems when the aquarium is assembled. The tank must first be assembled using the finishing nails to hold it together while drilling the screw holes. The 100 gallon tank can be put together by one person, but the 240 gallon will require two people due to the bulk and weight. Start the construction by selecting the bottom of the tank. For the 100 gallon aquarium, this is the 21" x 46 1/2" peice, or in the 240, this is the 24" x 94 1/2" sheet. Stand the bottom on edge and make certian that the "A", or good side, is placed on the inside of the tank. Take one side piece and place it over the edge of the bottom and secure it with two or three finishing nails. In order to allow for easy removal, do not drive the finishing nails in all the way. Make absolutely certian that the pieces are in perfect alignment. When this has been completed, repete the process for the other end piece. Next, take one of the 24" x 48" pieces and place it over the partially assembled bottom end. Line it up and secure it in place with the finishing nails. Do not drive the nails in all the way. Repete the process on the other side. You now have two strips of plywood left. These pieces are 48" long and will have to be cut so that they are also 46 1/2".the accuracy of this cut is not important and can be don at home. Square it up and fit it inside the top lip of the tank. Repete this process on the other side. Now draw a straight line 3/8; from all edges on both sides and the bottom side of the end. Then, starting from about 2" from the end of all the lines, make a pencil mark every 3". This mark will be where the screw holes are drilled. At most lumber companies and discount stores you can buy a drill with a countersink attached. Ask the clerc to provide you with the proper size for a #10 screw. If you cannot find a drill with an attached countersink, it will be necessary to but a seperate one. This should not be necessary, however, since the combination unit is readily available. Once obtained, drill all the holes that you have indicated with a pencil mark. Do not drill too deeply. The head of the screw, when set, should be approximately 1/16' below the surface of the wood. Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as it was, then disassemble the unit. Shake out the sawdust and sand off any irregularities caused by the drilling. Do not over sand and change the contour of the wood. Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as you assembled it before, paying attention to your assembley indicator marks. This time, however, a bead of Elmer's waterproof glue is applied. The finishing nails can now be driven in all the way and the tank screwed together. It is very tiring and slow, tedious job if you are using a standard screwdriver and not an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment. The screws are staggered between the 2 1/2" and 3" length screws. Start the row with a 2 1/2" screw and then alternate. Be sure that the tank is perfectly aligned before completing the final assembly. Wipe off the excess glue before it hardens. Once the glue has hardened, the next step is to cut out the front for the insertion of the glass. It is only necessary that a 2 1/2" lip be left on the front side, so draw lines in 2 1/2" from all sides. If you desire rounded corners, use a soup can in the four corners and draw the necessary curve. Drill a hole on the inside of the line of sufficient width to allow the insertion of a sabre saw. Go slowly and cut out the front of the tank. Don't force the sabre saw by going too fast --- takingyour time will result in a nice, even cut. Have someone hold up the plywood as you complete the cut to avoid the weight of the inside panel tearing the lip. If you didn't make the cut as even as you would like it, now is the time to sand it down and improve its appearance. On the cut ends of the plywood there will be gaps of holes inherent in the manufacturing of this product. Fill in these holes whenever noticed using plastic wood. When dry, sand the filled edges to a smooth finish. Shake all the sawdust out of the tank and dust it carefully. A vacuum cleaner hose with a brush attachment makes the job easier. You can finish the fine dusting with a tack cloth just prior to painting the inside. The best paint I have found is Pratt & Lambert which is readily available. Be sure to but Gloss Activator since it produces a much better finish for this use. Do not use any paint that does not require the mixing with an activator. There are Paints that don't require mixing and have the word "epoxy" on their label but they are totally useless for this type of work. you must use an epoxy paint that utilizes an activator, or catalyst. When mixing, follow the directions and mix only enough for one coat. Once the paint is mixed, it cannot be stored and must be used within a few hours. It is only necessary to paint the inside and the edges with epoxy unless you want to---it is only a waste of money. After painting the first coat, allow the tank to dry for 24 hours, then recoat. Some aquarists use only two coats, however, I prefer three coats. The latter would be a must if you are going to use the tank as a marine aquarium. The 1/2 gallon of paint is enough for three coats. After the final coat of paint is dry, many aquarists put a light beading of silicon aquarium sealant in all corners. In most cases this is not necessary but applying it will serve as insurance against leakage, should there be a bubble or crack in one of the corners. The final step is the insertion of the glass. Cut the end of the silicone aquarium sealant spout to its widest opening. Place the tank with the cut side down and run a continuous bead of silicone aquarium sealant all around the lip. Center the silastic so that it is about 1/2 way between the edge and the sides of the tank. Take the glass, tilt it and set it on top af the silicone bead. Press it frimly down on all edges. It is a good idea to take a couple of pails of water, or other weights, and set on top of the glass to keep pressure on the silastic until set. Let it cure for a few days, then remove the weights. Trim off the excess silicone sealant, if any, and test the tank. This is accomplished by filling with water, then if no leaks appear, drain the water and the tank is ready to be put in service. Should any leaks occur--an unlikely occurence---a little silicone aquarium sealant will quickly seal it. If the aquarium is to be used in the basement fish room, a coat or two of latex paint will be satisfactory for the exterior. If, however, it is to be used in a more formal setting, the tank can be faced with stained or varnished paneling or other desired finish. This is an economicial way to aquire a large tank. Given proper care, the life of your new tank should be a lengthy one. I have 100 gallon tanks that were built 20 years ago and are still in service! Materials and Supplies: 100 Gallon Tank 1 piece 3/4" x 4' x 8' Exterior plywood A-C 1 piece 1/4" x 22 " x 46" glass 55 flat head wood screws #10 x 2 1/2" 55 flat head wood screws #10 x 3" 1 can plastic wood 2 tubes clear silicone aquarium sealant (10.7 oz) 1 qt. Pratt & Lambert Polyguard epoxy coating 1 qt. Pratt & Lambert Gloss Polyguard Activator 1 small bottle Elmers Waterproof glue 20+8p. finishing nails 1 can lacquer thinner (cleaning hands, brushes, etc.) Miscellaneous Supplies: Drill, countersink, 1/2" dia. variable speed electric drill, screwdriver attachment, small sander, sandpaper, hammer, cheap paint brushes and caulking gun. Materials and Supplies: 240 Gallon Tank 2 pieces 3/4" x 4' x8' Exterior plywood A-C 1 piece 3/8" x 92" x 22" glass 2 2" x 4" x 96" select and srraight pine, free of large knots. 90 flat head wood screws #10 x 2 1/2" 90 flat head wood screws #10 x 3" 2 qts. polyguard 2 qts. activator 1 can plastic wood 1 bottle Elmers waterproof glue 3 tubes Silicone Aquarium sealant 30 +8p. finishing nails 1 can lacquer thinner Miscellaneous Supplies: Same as listed for 100 gallon aquarium ______________________________________________________________ | | | | | | | | | | | 24" | | | | | | | | | | | t | | | | length | | | o | | | | | | | | p | 24" side | 24" side | 21" |___________| | | 48" | | | Bottom | | | | s | | | | | | | t | | | | 21" side | | | r | | | | | | | i | | |------------| | | | p |_____________|______________|____________|___________|___|___| cuts for 100 gallon ______________________________________________________________ | 94 1/2" bottom | | | | | | | 24" | | | | | | | | | |______________________________________________________| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 24" side | 24" side | not used | | | | | |_____________|______________|_______________________________| ______________________________________________________________ | | | | | side | | | | | |____________________________________________________________| | | | | | | side 96" | | 24" | | | | |____________________________________________________________| Last 2 are cuts for a 240 gallon tank ... Smithers--release the hounds! --- Blue Wave v2.12 [NR] * Origin: ASG MicroAge BBS Moncton, NB(506)853-7196 USR V34 28.8k 1:255/200) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBF00021 Date: 07/09/96 From: GREG STEEVES Time: 06:24pm \/To: JAMES WAGNER (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Sticklebacks * Reply to msg originally in AQUARIUM - Fishkeeping & Marine Tanks You said this to Greg Steeves about Sticklebacks JW> @MSGID: 1:153/220.0 31b60d6e JW> I have access to stickleback's here in Vancouver B.C. as well, and I JW> was wondering just what water temperacture tolerances they have, as JW> well as how you have feed them, and the size of their tanks. Wow James, I wasn't aware that sticklebacks are found on the west coast. What type of stickleback---that is, how many dorsal spines. I wonder how far to the south they are found? I know sticklebacks are popular in England, I'd like to know if they are "natives" there. I have had a tank with sticklebacks in the cellar where the tempature had to be around 12c, and also in areas that hovered about 27c at times. I wouldn't advise keeping them this hot too long though, and feel that 15-20 would be ideal. These fish most certianly enjoy live food. Brine shrimp, and white worms taken greedily, flake although eaten, never got them very excited. I've kept them in a variety of different sized tanks, but with a larger tank you can watch their unusual habit of swimming backwards. When threatened, instead of turning around and swimming away, they just "jet" backward. JW> 5 gallon tank with a light gravel (in colour and amount) base, and a JW> few small plants with a PH of 6 and a temperacture of about 68 f (room JW> temp.) And, if so, do you have any idea on how many I could keep in JW> this tank? Well, you should take this advice with a grain of salt, because I've never actually "studied" them, just enjoyed keeping what I could catch myself. I'd say a 5 gallon would be fine for a male and a trio of females. Two males would eventually kill each other over territory in a tank of this size. I can't see thickness of the gravel having much bearing, unless you are running an undergravel filter. These fish, when relaxed seem to enjoy hoovering in midwater. The male will find a certian spot he likes and hang out there. The females seem to do more swimming than the male. Plants would be ok as the spots they are plentiful in, is where there is good plant growth. Reeds seem to be a good spot to look for them. My favorite collecting hole is an old beaver dam with acidic water, pH of 6.6. Let me know if you decide to keep'em. You won't regret it. Greg JW> -!- Maximus 3.00 JW> ! Origin: Voices From Within (1:153/220) ... Smithers--release the hounds! --- Blue Wave v2.12 [NR] * Origin: ASG MicroAge BBS Moncton, NB(506)853-7196 USR V34 28.8k 1:255/200) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00000 Date: 07/10/96 From: CHUCK POLLET Time: 01:17pm \/To: GREG SMITH (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Fry under the filter plate... If you really want the fry, why not put your adults in a bucket or another tank, save the water, and take the whole thing out? After the fry are safe in a bucket of the same water, might as well do a through cleaning, and put the tank back the way you like it. Then put the same water back in, and you're good as new. You might have to add a little fresh water, but everything will be just peachy. Might take some time though. --- CNet/3 * Origin: Excalibur BBS! - 970.506.0425 - Greeley, CO (1:315/17) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00001 Date: 07/09/96 From: JEFF WRIGHT Time: 06:17pm \/To: MARTIN CUKJATI (Read 3 times) Subj: Grammies Greetings, Martin... While at gunpoint, Martin Cukjati hastily said to All: MC> I need a little help with the Grammie tank. MC> It was set up as a community tank but as the population thinned, I MC> stocked it with Grammies. Apparently not too many fish can coexist with MC> Grammies. Now I find they have a hard time getting along with MC> themselves. Lost a couple over the last 6 months. I put it down to MC> aggression. What type of gourami are you keeping, exactly? I've found most species of gourami to be rather peaceful. I've kept many dwarf gouramis in community tanks without any kind of problems, as they seem to ignore any other non-gourami species. I've also kept a large blue gourami in both a 15 and 20 gallon tank, with no problems. The only problematic gourami I've had is a pearl gourami, who killed a dwarf gourami and attacked the blue. However, the pearl gourami ignores both the pictus catfish and firemouth cichlid with whom he is housed, and has done so for at least two years. It sounds to me as if the fighting might be due to territoriality. I read in an article that the male dwarf gouramis stake out a territory roughly 16 inches on a side, with only females allowed access. I imagine the larger ones probably require a larger territory. If you have more than one male, this might be a problem. MC> One Leopard Danyo has survived. 4 Cory cats are OK. (nobody bothers a MC> cat.:) I kept a school of both leopard and zebra danios with a dwarf gourami with no problems, aside from the danios jumping out occaisonally. They virtually ignored each other, aside from at feeding time. MC> I would like to make it a community tank, if I can. Variety is nice. MC> Any idea what fish get along with Grammies? Tetras, catfish, barbs, livebearers, maybe even small cichlids. It's been my experience that it's the gouramis that need protection, not the rest of the fish. Things do seem to work out better if you put in something that will be of roughly the same size, however. I keep a firemouth cichlid and a pictus catfish with my pearl gourami with no problems at all. My dwarf gouramis have been housed with various danios, guppies, and white clouds with no foul play. I've often heard of gouramis suddenly becoming aggressive, though. MC> BTW Feel free to correct my spelling. I know Danyo isn't spelled this MC> way. ;-) MC> Marty. My book here says "danio", so I'd be willing to go along with that. B) -- Jeff --- GoldED 2.41 * Origin: Merlin's Tower - Surrey, BC (1:153/944) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00002 Date: 07/10/96 From: BRIAN SAWYERS Time: 09:27pm \/To: GREG SMITH (Read 3 times) Subj: Fry under the filter plate... Hello Greg! 08 Jul 96 23:41, Greg Smith wrote to All: GS> My *&%^$ female convict cleared away so much gravel that the UGF plate GS> was bared and a whole batch of fry swam underneath. Any ideas on how GS> I might entice them to come back up so that I can move the gravel back GS> over the plate and not kill off any of the fry (although the way these GS> convicts breed, all I have to do is to wait a week or so, and they'll GS> lay another hundred of so!)? Yep--rabbits with fins :^) The best solution I could come up with, when faced with a similar problem back when I had convicts--if you've had convicts, you've bred convicts :^), was to remove the powerheads and install the old airlifts. The fry would go below the filter plate, be harmlessly sucked up the tube by the air bubbles, and squirted back into the main part of the tank. Do this for a week or so,'til they can't fit through the slots in the filter plate. You'll lose a few, but don't worry about them. Of course, I didn't notice that they were being sucked up and scrambled by the powerheads until I'd lost about half of my fry, but the convicts made up for it in no time. Feed the parents brine shrimp, fresh or frozen, and Tetra Condition Food--the green stuff. This brings on spawning pretty quickly. Then again, they'd probably spawn if fed dirt and kept on wet paper towels--let's see you try to _stop_ them from spawning :^) Best bet, for maximum fry retention, is a bare 20-30 gal aquarium, with a big sponge filter, and a cave of some sort--ceramic pot/ceramic skull/human skull/ceramic toxic waste drum. Look for an orange bulging belly on the female, and a lump on the male's forhead. The male will also grow pointier fins. If you have 1 male and 1 female, they _will_ spawn, and proceed to kill anything else that strays into their territory, which to them means the whole tank. Have seen them kill medium size plecos, and swim around with their trophy, holding it by the eye sockets. Of all the various cichlids I've kept, these are the only ones who have bit me hard enough to draw blood, trying to protect their fry. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp, I used to keep two 2-liter bottles bubbling at all times. When they start to look like convicts, they'll probably start accepting finely ground flake food--Tetra stuff seems to grind up the finest. Another little hint--sell/trade/give away/pawn off on any friends with aquariums or ponds/flush (you're choice) the fry at the nickel or quarter size--if you let them grow past an inch, the _fry_ will begin spawning--lot's 'o little pits down to the filter plate. . . Later, Brian. --- GoldED/386 2.50 UNREG * Origin: Strange Days412-271-0980 (1:129/278) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00003 Date: 07/11/96 From: WILLIAM MILBERGER Time: 07:28pm \/To: GREG STEEVES (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: info on making your o -=> Quoting Greg Steeves to William Milberger <=- GS> Hello William GS> I finally found that article on building tanks I told you I'd find. GS> As it turns out The article is from 1987, so I guess my tank has been GS> running longer than I thought! The mind is the first thing to go GS> right? Anyhow here it is, I hope it helps you out. Thanks for reposting. It will be very useful. Do you think it would be okay to cut out the sides or do you think it would weaken it too much? William ... Go straight to the docs. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200! --- FastEcho 1.47+ * Origin: TEN-FORWARD BBS.Where Kirk meets Bubba!(409)589-3704. (1:117/170) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00004 Date: 07/10/96 From: LINDA WATSON Time: 12:37pm \/To: ALL (Read 3 times) Subj: Neon fish Hello All! First of all I want to say I am stupid when it comes to tropical fish. Next my daughter was treated very rude by one of the echoes. Not sure if this one is the one. We have Neon, Zebra, Catfish, and another cleaning type fish in our tank. Every time I buy new Neon's which is what I prefer the Zebra attack them and I always lose a few. Do I guess corectly that these two are not compatible. - Linda Watson ... If it's on fire, it's a hardware problem. --- FMail/386 1.0g * Origin: Robin Point - Wichita Falls, Tx USA - (1:3805/24.17) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00005 Date: 07/08/96 From: JACKIE DOEK Time: 03:36pm \/To: CHRISTINE LABONT (Read 3 times) Subj: Re: Testing CL> Am I getting out? Haven't received anything in this echo for several days. CL> Please reply wherever you are, so I know who is getting to Ottawa. Thank Y I am getting you here in Vanessa, ONtario :) --- GEcho 1.00 * Origin: The Mystical Place - Vanessa, ON - (1:245/110) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 229 AQUARIUMS Ref: DBG00006 Date: 07/10/96 From: ADRIAN WORLEY Time: 11:00am \/To: ALL (UK SIDE). (Read 3 times) Subj: Open Show. Hi All, Tongham Aquarist Society's annual open show will be held on Sunday 28th July at the usual venue, Mytchett Community Centre, 140 Mytchett Road, Mytchett, Camberley, Surrey. The hall WILL be open during judging, (although individual lanes may be closed at the judges request). There is no entry fee, all are welcome. The centre has a large car park, catering and bar facilities etc. Post me if you require further details. All the best, Adrian... --- GEcho 1.20/Pro * Origin: (2:252/820)