--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00077 Date: 04/30/98 From: N.F. MILLER ORTIZ Time: 08:02am \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: Fish Ponds Good Morning..... Does anyone know where I might write to for information on digging a Fish Pond?, and/or where I might obtain a video on the same subject? Ciao o nfmOrtiz@Juno.com ... I saw it in a cartoon once, I think I can do it? ___ Blue Wave/DOS v2.30 --- PCBoard (R) v15.3/M 2 * Origin: Peyote Bud's - Dewey, OK - V.34 - 1.918.534.2124 (1:3815/123) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00078 Date: 04/30/98 From: STUART WRIGHT Time: 04:34pm \/To: RITA BUSSELL (Read 2 times) Subj: Re: Perserving oak?? > Quoting message from Rita Bussell to Paul Rogers (29 Apr 98 03:41:24): RB> I just bought an outdoor bench that has solid oak slats. What's RB> a good preservative to use on it? Hi Rita, The finish put on outdoor furniture from practically any company is adequate for a short period of time. After about two years, depending on your climate, the finish (more than likely a simple shellac) will begin to crack, crumble, and permit moisture to discolor the wood. I live in San Antonio, where outdoor furniture gets a lot of heat and moisture more in the Spring. I recommend using a polyurethane plastic finish. Two or three coats will make the finish rock hard and protect the oak slats for years, and make them impenetrable to moisture. If you decide to put a finish on the oak slats, prep the boards with 150 grit sandpaper or medium steel wool, wipe down with rubbing alcohol, and apply your finish. If you wish to change the color of the wood, apply a wipe stain after the alcohol step. Hope this helps. Varathane, or similar products, come in two basic finishes: gloss or semi-gloss (also called satin). Regards, Stu email: drumstik@flash.net ... Three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics. --- RemoteAccess 2.52+ * Origin: Northern Lights! * San Antonio * 210-499-6299 V34/VFC (1:387/23) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00079 Date: 05/01/98 From: LEONA HEADLEY Time: 11:18pm \/To: N.F. MILLER ORTIZ (Read 2 times) Subj: Fish Ponds NMO> Does anyone know where I might write to for information on NMO> digging a Fish Pond?, and/or where I might obtain a video on NMO> the same subject? Ciao You might check your local Extension Office or check out your local library to see if they have any books on the subject. Leona --- * Origin: Mail Box (1:170/302.22) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00080 Date: 05/01/98 From: RITA BUSSELL Time: 07:08am \/To: STUART WRIGHT (Read 2 times) Subj: Perserving oak?? RB> I just bought an outdoor bench that has solid oak slats. What's RB> a good preservative to use on it? SW> I recommend using a polyurethane plastic finish. Two or three coats SW> will make the finish rock hard and protect the oak slats for years, SW> and make them impenetrable to moisture. If you decide to put a finish SW> on the oak slats, prep the boards with 150 grit sandpaper or medium SW> steel wool, wipe down with rubbing alcohol, and apply your finish. If SW> you wish to change the color of the wood, apply a wipe stain after the SW> alcohol step. Hope this helps. Varathane, or similar products, come in SW> two basic finishes: gloss or semi-gloss (also called satin). Thanks for all the info!. Consider it saved to a file AND printed out......just in case I should have a crash.....One never knows with "Win95". ;-) --'-,-{@ Rita ... File to fit, hammer to suit, paint to hide. --- Blue Wave/DOS v2.30 * Origin: Nude Beach Party (1:141/356) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00081 Date: 05/11/98 From: BRENDA CRAWFORD Time: 08:48am \/To: MARILYN BOISSONEAULT (Read 2 times) Subj: black birds Sorry, guess I was a little misleading, there. I put out seed for all my birds in feeders and on the ground. The robins come around, so I just assumed they ate the seed, too. I don't know, I just like to watch them! :) I am waiting for the honeysuckle to quite growing so I can see my hummers. But then the gladiolas will be blooming and I have scores of those, so I'll just have to watch the flowers for the hummers. Occasionally, I will get a glimpse of a hummer at one of my feeders, but those are few right now. :(. TTYL. --- * Origin: HOMETOWN BBS, Bren's Place, Gatesville, TX (1:395/401.3) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5G00082 Date: 05/11/98 From: JIM VENEDAM Time: 04:39pm \/To: RITA BUSSELL (Read 2 times) Subj: Doves On (10 May 98) Rita Bussell wrote to Jim Venedam... RB> I saw one the other day trying to get at the Safflower feeder, but I have cages around most of my feeders, so he was out of luck. They especially love Thistle seed and mine have a cute habit of sitting in the seed catcher of the feeder and munch away. I don't use any special seeds, just the 25# bags they sell at K Mart and Wal Mart. The doves, sparrows, woodpeckers, and cardinals like it plenty good. The feeder is planted in the middle of a big patch of cardinal plant. I have to watch it that it doesn't grow too high or the squirrels get up there. The spilled seed makes for some strange p[lants growing under it. One of 'em looks like wheat. It has tons of seeds. I let it grow 'till the squirrels strip it, then I pull it up by the roots. Jimvee ... Build a Better Life by Stealing Office Supplies. --Dilbert ___Messenger V1.2 [Reg] --- PPoint 2.06 * Origin: Jimvee's Point. Palm Bay, Florida (1:374/46.5) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5H00000 Date: 05/06/98 From: GARY AILES Time: 05:47am \/To: JOSEPH RAMPOLLA (Read 2 times) Subj: Sevin JR> GA> I always try to whip up my own pesticide consting of numerous JR> GA> household items like soap, salts, tobacco juice, habenero pepper, JR> GA> beer, whatever seems good. I don't have a bug problem, and the birds JR> GA> have fresh breath and spicy bugs to eat. JR> Thanks for the reply! If I can ask you one question, what to you do JR> for JR> Japanese beetles and aphids on roses? I have a tea of wormwood leaves JR> soaking JR> presently, but don't know if it will do the trick! I hit one of my Jerry Baker books, and his recommendation for both pests on roses is to keep them clean. Taking your garden hose with a pressure nozzle on the end and spraying them over, being sure to get the underside of the leaves, washing away the aphids and JB's. Just be careful not to break the plant with the pressure of the water. I've never had a problem with JB's, but this is the method I use for aphids on my tomato plants. - Gary Ailes - http://home.earthlink.net/~gailes ... All those updates, and still imperfect!! --- FMail/386 1.22 * Origin: Scooby's Doo BBS, Peters Township, PA 724-941-6487 (1:129/328) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5H00001 Date: 05/11/98 From: GARY AILES Time: 05:16pm \/To: ART KOPP (Read 2 times) Subj: Briggs and Straton Carborator AK> -=> Quoting Gary Ailes to All <=- AK> GA> I bought a used Sears Lawn Tractor today. The engine has been AK> GA> replaced with a Briggs and Straton Engine. The carborator seems to e AK> GA> missing something... AK> GA> There seems to be two places where an airfilter can attach, the top, AK> GA> and the side. There is an airfilter on the top, so the side hole had AK> GA> been covered with duct tape and cardboard... AK> Gary I work on all types of mowers and small engines as a second usiness AK> and have been a Maitinence Machinist all my life, the carb you are AK> describing AK> sounds alot like the type that has an opening not for a second air cleaner AK> but actually there should be a thin metal plate that press fits into it. Thanks for the reply! I did go to my local Sears parts and Service Center and they were able to pull up the engine and parts list. It's officially called a "Plug Welch" and I was able to buy one for a few dollars. The schematic drawing displayed on the computer screen showed what looked like a tube that held it in, but when the parts arrived it clearly wasn't necessary. So now I also have a carb Venturi, and don't even know what its for. Perhaps you can help me with another question on this carb. The bowl of the carb has a needle valve adjustment on the bottom of it. What does this adjust? Thanks. - Gary Ailes - http://home.earthlink.net/~gailes ... "I went insane trying to take a close up picture of the horizon!" --- FMail/386 1.22 * Origin: Scooby's Doo BBS, Peters Township, PA 724-941-6487 (1:129/328) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5H00002 Date: 05/12/98 From: WL SAKOWSKI Time: 11:52pm \/To: JOSEPH RAMPOLLA (Read 2 times) Subj: Sevin JR>> GA> I... whip up my own pesticide consting of JR>> GA> numerous household items like soap, salts, JR>> GA> (stuff)..., whatever seems good. I don't have JR>> GA> a bug problem, and the birds have fresh JR>> breath and spicy bugs to eat. JR>> ..., what to you do for Japanese beetles and aphids JR>> on roses? I have a tea of wormwood leaves soaking JR>> presently, but don't know if it will do the trick! I wouldn't be above using Wormwood Tea, as it will also take care of bigger bugs, like beetles, caterpillars, etc. But, aphids don't really need it... they can be taken care of with just spraying with mouth wash (about 1 cup of non-sweet, like Listerine), and a few drops of soap, (or I really like lemon sudsy ammonia, which most bugs *don't like! :). You can even add your fertilizer, if you use water soluable (like Miracle Grow, Peter's, etc. :) and take care of it all at the same time. This mix is for aphids. Japanese Beetles... now that's a different story. The *best* preventative for Japanese Beetles is a natural bacteria that is applied to the area (and it does need to be the general area, as they fly ... and eat as they go! :) It is available at most garden shops/nurseries. However, a great hortaculturist, (and my great Aunt Laura :) taught me to wash my dishes by hand, using this cast-off water (and it *does* need to be "spent" dishwater, not just soapy water!) to pour over the ground anywhere beetles seem to be a problem. I have used this for many years, with great success. If you are dilligent about using this, beetles will never be a problem, as they will be 'nipped' in the larva stage. Also, it doesn't bother your earthworm population (which is important to me :) I also use a 'tea' made from the lower leaves of my tomato vines. Please respect this, as, when you are able to see it at work, you will see that it appears to be quite potent, remembering that the constituents that kill "bugs" will affect us humans in like manner, only differing amounts... so treat any of these as you would some bottled chemical. A homemade treatment that works, say, on a bugs nervous system, potentially, in a sufficient quantity, may affect your nervous system, as well. Caution is easier to deal with than carelessness. If you are interested in trying the Tomato-leaf Tea: Take a good handful of tomato leaves (I always use the lowest ones because I was told to... I don't know that it makes any difference at all. I'm just a creature of habit! :) Add them to a pot of water (at least 1 quart) and bring to a boil. Turn down and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and allow to steep until water has cooled. Strain and add to spray bottle. In Oklahoma, we have a real problem with huge grasshoppers that just devour everything (not unlike Japanese Beetles :) in their path! This spray stops them dead in their tracks. This is a spray that works on their nervous system... and it works in a matter of seconds! So, do your self a favor and get yourself a shower and wash all clothing, after you've finished your spraying. It will make me feel better for the sharing of the recipe. :) My earthworm population has never been harmed by this spray, but it will kill your ladybugs, mantis, ... it is non-discriminating, unfortunately. But if you're fighting Japanese Beetles, you may not care! (yes, I've been there... they are worse than *terrible*! :) GA> I hit one of my Jerry Baker books, and his GA> recommendation for both pests on roses is to keep them GA> clean. Taking your garden hose with a pressure nozzle GA> on the end and spraying them over, being sure to get GA> the underside of the leaves, washing away the aphids GA> and JB's. Just be careful not to break the plant with GA> the pressure of the water. Jerry Baker is a great one to read. I have several of his books, and appreciate his philosophy... in fact, I share it on almost every score. He has some great recipes that are friendly to the environment... and after all, isn't that one of the things we are concerned about when we garden? Some other things that can be used for aphids are garlic (which is one of my 'stand-bys' for roses, as it is also a natural fungicide, so is useful for black spot/mildew, so I feel as tho I'm doing double duty! :), using at least 2 cloves for each 2 cups of water... I add a couple drops of dish soap and put the whole thing into my spray bottle. basil tea (made as you would for a cup of tea), elder leaf tea (1 cup leaves to 4 cups water, cooked for 1/2hour, cooled and strained), and there are others. cheers, WL Sakowski (I didn't intend this to get so involved. :) --- * Origin: gn3.gratisnet.com (1:170/302.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F5H00003 Date: 05/12/98 From: BIRDMAN Time: 10:32am \/To: DON DODSON (Read 2 times) Subj: Don, Don, Don. Don, It may not make much sense by appearance, but if you havn't tried something, you really may not know the mechanics of it and you just *can't knock it. (...) DD> Trudy, I have seen Mr. Sakowski (MRS.!) DD> try to convince you to apply Phosphorus, and Potash to clover to make it DD> die. I don't know why he is trying to mislead you when you are asking for DD> help. (...) DD> 3. You can ask any farmer what he uses to build up his soil after he DD> has planted crops to take the nitrogen out of the soil, and he will DD> reply a legume crop of peas or clover. I'm not exactly a farmer, but I have an 18 acre "hobby farm" right smack in the middle of several others who do it on a much larger scale. I can supply you some answers on two levels, first as someone who grows clover *intentionally - we have about 10 acres of hayfield, mostly clover - and second as one having a bit of knowledge about how the farming cycles work. You're absolutely right. We have two pricipal crops here which are grown in rotation. One is feed corn, which tends to deplete the soil of nitrogen, and the other is soy beans, also a legume, which tend to restore the nitrogen removed from the soil by the corn. We've even been told that if we chose to reseed one of our clover hay fields, we should rest and restabilize the soil by growing a crop of corn for one year first. (...) DD> So you see Trudy, by taking Mr. Sakowski's advice you will not kill DD> the clover, but will be aiding its growth by providing Potash and DD> Phosphorus to its diet. It already makes it's own nitrogen so get DD> yourself a broadleaf weed killer and do the clover in. Good luck nice DD> Lady! You're sort of right, at least on a basic level, Don. If you just went and fertilized your lawn like most people do, you'd have a wonderful crop of clover (and grass and dandelions and a host of other weeds) growing and the neighboring goat farmer would be asking you to allow his flock to graze your lawn. Heck, we fertilize our hayfield once in a while if it promises to yield a better harvest in years when hay prices are up. That's why even I, in my initial response to the question, suggested a weed and feed variety of fertilizer that had a good broadleaf herbacide in it. But on a deeper level, if you look at what WLski had to say, she's *exactly right. She didn't just recommend that the lawn be fertilized, but that it be fertilized monthly! throughout the growing season. Mind you that this method wouldn't be instantaneously effective, but over the course of a couple seasons, it would be highly effective and *much better for the health of the lawn and those caring for it than spreading toxic herbacides. As I've stated several times already (and WLski said in her original response), clover is a *sensitive broadleaf and can (and is) easily crowded out by companion plants. In 5 to 10 years, the grass that is also growing in my hayfield will eventually crowd out the clover (and the dandelions and other broadleafs growing there as well) and if I want to maintain a clover field, I'll have to till it all in and reseed. So you see, while on the surface of it it may look like you're going to make the clover grow better, what you're actually going to do is make the grass grow better, to the point that the clover won't be able to surrvive. All without using toxic chemicals. Byrd Mann ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 [NR] --- Platinum Xpress/Win/Wildcat5! v2.1h * Origin: The Playhouse TC's Gaming BBS/www.phouse.com/698.3748 (1:282/4059)