--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500013 Date: 04/04/98 From: CHRISTOPHER GREAVES Time: 07:03pm \/To: PAUL ROGERS (Read 2 times) Subj: grass PESTS PR>In the States the state land-grant colleges/universities all have PR>Got something similar in Canada? I don't know. I'm nowhere near the agricultural scene. The closest likely source to me (Toronto, Ontario) is Guelph, about sixty miles west of here. There is arguably a marked difference in weather between us and them, possibly soil types too. Christopher.Greaves@CapCanada.Com www.interlog.com/~cgreaves * 1st 2.00b #6263 * When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty --- PCBoard (R) v15.3 (OS/2) 5 * Origin: FidoNet: CAP/CANADA Support BBS : 416 287-0234 (1:250/710) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500014 Date: 04/04/98 From: DORIS DIGNARD Time: 08:56pm \/To: JIM VENEDAM (Read 2 times) Subj: Sucralose JV>Great news in the paper this week about the FDA approving a new >no calorie sugar substitute by Johnson & Johnson. Where have Johnson & Johnson been for the last 4 years? We have a sucralose product in Canada and it's called "Splenda". JV>It's made from sugar by changing its molecules so that it >passes straight thru the digestive tract. It's 600 times >sweeter than sugar, but tastes the same. It's safe for >diabetics. We have used it for the last 4 years. JV>It's more stable than the "blue" stuff, giving it a longer >shelf life, and making it more suitable for cooking. It is definitely good for cooking. Ours comes with a 1-800 number that gives us much information on preserving and jam making. It may be a sugar product but there are lots of things it can't do...jam making is one of them. Actually you can use it for freezer jam, not to my liking. JV>The blurb sounds like something from a J&J press release, >but >this all evidently came from the FDA. JV>If this stuff is half as good as they say, I'll be dropping the >Diet Coke with Aspartame for the first product that comes along >with Sucralose. I've never seen anything using this as the sweetener. In Canada, Splenda is an expensive product. A 110 g box costs about $4.50. When I use this in a recipe for cooking, you use exactly the same amount as you would sugar (tsp for tsp, cup for cup, etc). On the whole, I'm glad we have it and it is a nice tasting product. The Splenda people put out many "Splenda" recipes. Any recipe that depends on sugar to keep it from going bad, can't use Splenda in its place. There is no protection in the Splenda. Doris Dignard ddignard@idirect.com doris.dignard@capcanada.com * 1st 2.00 #9125 * Oral Contraceptive...just say "NO" --- PCBoard (R) v15.3 (OS/2) 5 * Origin: FidoNet: CAP/CANADA Support BBS : 416 287-0234 (1:250/710) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500015 Date: 04/03/98 From: SANDRA PEAKE Time: 07:20am \/To: THURSTON ACKERMAN (Read 2 times) Subj: ground temp ready 4 plant Hi again, Ack, TA>Good points Sandra, thank you. TA>Here in Paul Revere country, there is a local race to see who can TA>produce the first tomatoes before 4th of July, from plantings done TA>April 19th (anniversity of Paul's ride to warn the Red Coats were TA>coming). Some less ethical participates have been known to bury TA>electric heating cables in their garden beds 8-). I rely on epson TA>salts in the fertilizer and hormone dust on the blossoms to enhance TA>setting fruits. My first line of attack would be to raise earliest tomatoes. But if I were REALLY unethical, I'd keep some indeterminate tomatoes growing all winter, keeping blossoms picked off, and come early spring, take a half a dozen cuttings that, when rooted, will be indistinguishable from early-sown seedlings. Then I would use lights on them to lengthen their daylight until planting time, and pick off the largest (the dead giveaway ) buds; so that the "seedlings" would not be obviously more advanced than everyone else's, and put Walls o' Water or other warmth-enhancing protection around them. Then I'd wait and see. You may gain a couple of weeks for all this work. But I think the genuine seedlings would be better plants and give better yields,all other things being equal. :-) ...Sandra... --- * QMPro 1.52 * ANXIETY: Nature's way of getting you up Mornings --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: The Fire Pit BBS Paris Ont (519)442-1013 (1:221/1518.0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500016 Date: 04/04/98 From: CAROL SHENKENBERGER Time: 03:28pm \/To: BARBARA HAZEN (Read 2 times) Subj: Re: weeds *** Quoting Barbara Hazen from a message to Christopher Greaves *** BH> Hi Chris BH> Just a quick note to ask if you can give me some tips on how to tell t BH> difference between a weed and a plant I want in the garden? I am not BH> used to weeding, have had no experience, and would like to learn. Can BH> you help? Barb, if I am not crazy, you are either low vision or blind right? Humm. Best way is to plant in the first place with care. The ground has to be completely free of all plants. Not even rootlets left if you can manage it. This will ensure that what you plant, will be the majority of what grows in the beginning. This will let you get a 'feel' for what you planted and anything that feels different (shape, leaf, scent) can be considered a weed after you have enough seedlings to tell what is the 'majority'. Use pencils or some chopped wood, to mark off the different areas so you dont get confused on what plot has what plant in it. With the pencils, you tie string or nylon 'wire' to make a border. The left over winter wood for your fireplace makes a better boarder because it impeeds weeds/grass from crossing into the garden portion somewhat. If I'm wrong and you are sighted, just look to see what is the majority growth and let it grow. If you properly removed the weeds at the start, it will be easy to tell. xxcarol --- Telegard v3.09.b16 * Origin: SHENK'S EXPRESS Norfolk VA 757-486-3057 28.8 Dual (1:275/100) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500017 Date: 04/04/98 From: CAROL SHENKENBERGER Time: 03:29pm \/To: BOB LOTSPEICH (Read 2 times) Subj: Re: Ants *** Quoting Bob Lotspeich from a message to All *** BL> FIRE ANTS: BL> Take some uncooked dry grits and sprinkle around the fire ant hill. BL> The fire ants will eat the grits and they, too, will burst open. The BL> how-to-do guy swore that this works every time. BL> A nice thing about both of these solutions is they are bio-degradable BL> and won't harm pets or flowers. I don't have any ants to experiment BL> on, so would like to know if these solutions really work. I dont have many, but I am going to try this one in my backyard. xxcarol --- Telegard v3.09.b16 * Origin: SHENK'S EXPRESS Norfolk VA 757-486-3057 28.8 Dual (1:275/100) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500018 Date: 04/04/98 From: WL SAKOWSKI Time: 10:36pm \/To: MARILYN BOISSONEAULT (Read 2 times) Subj: Stevia -=>> Quoting Wl Sakowski to Marilyn Boissoneault <=- WS>> Yes. Saccharin *was* taken away for awhile... ***much stuff by WLS, deleted*** WS>> (And, still, we are to believe all that "they" say :) Oh well... MB> I guess I didn't remember that on the saccharin. I did MB> see in the paper another sugar subsititute was just MB> approved, but forget the name of it. I don't believe MB> much that "they" say. Yes. I read, with interest, someone else's post about this. We don't take the paper at home anymore, so I have to stay on top of things via TV (tho my husband brings 'the paper' home to me, when he thinks there are things of further interest to me, tho it is usually USA today, or WSJ. Anyway, I am anxious to see just how "they" are improving our life now! (Sorry, but I'm always skeptical of things that God didn't 'make' :) cheers, WL Sakowski --- * Origin: gn3.gratisnet.com (1:170/302.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500019 Date: 04/04/98 From: WL SAKOWSKI Time: 10:39pm \/To: MARILYN BOISSONEAULT (Read 2 times) Subj: ANTS -=>> Quoting Wl Sakowski to Marilyn Boissoneault <=- WS>> Va. We tried using diazinon on them at my parents (in WS>> Alabama)... they just laughed, as they planted their WS>> dead... and continued to build new homes! MB> Sounds like my success rate. I never get rid of them, MB> they just move into new quarters nearby! (chuckle) ...more, more, more :) I must say, I like the 'grits' idea... (almost makes me wish I had an ol' ant bed to check it out with, she said, with a sinister note :) cheers, WL Sakowski --- * Origin: gn3.gratisnet.com (1:170/302.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4500020 Date: 04/04/98 From: WL SAKOWSKI Time: 10:52pm \/To: STUART WRIGHT (Read 2 times) Subj: Mountain Laurels SW> Any mountain laurel experts out there? I've been told SW> that they're generally tough to grow, but no one will SW> say why exactly. Any tips on perking up a droopy laurel SW> tree? The soil here in San Antonio isn't the greatest SW> (iron poor) and is normally tightly-packed clay. When I SW> planted it, I used ironite and root stimulator on the SW> little guy, but it doesn't seem to be growing much. One SW> of its branches yellowed up and died. No bugs or fungus SW> on it that I can tell. Well, Stu, why didn't you pick a *really* tough job? :) I mean, San Antonio is about as far removed for a mountain laural as *Mars* would be! (I'm joking, of course, but it *is* a pretty tall order, to ask a mountain laural to grow in South Texas! The first thing I can tell you it that you need to remember where mountain laural is native to... and try to duplicate it. I'm serious. They like deep, acid rich soil, with a healthy topping of hardwood leaves in varying stages of decomposition... in other words, leaf mold. They will grow in several hours of sun, but not *San Antonio* sun, unless it is early morning (my preference) or late afternoon! (Not all sun is the same, is it :) and remember that they grow along side plants like Oak, Pine, Mountain Azalea, Mountain Hydrangea, Dogwood, Redbud, Larch, [the list is long], so give them company that they will appreciate. Please don't take this post to be any suggestion that I consider myself to be an expert on mountain laural (or anything else, for that matter :) I just happen to be from an area which has more than a few laurals (of all kind :) cheers, WL Sakowski --- * Origin: gn3.gratisnet.com (1:170/302.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4A00000 Date: 04/05/98 From: CHRISTOPHER GREAVES Time: 04:57pm \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: dishwasher flood I think I've solved the dishwasher-flood problem. There have been puddles of water at various times. In the bottom of the machine is a circular plastic plate with fins - I guess it's purpose is to sieve out the larger food scraps. A Phillips screwdrive let me remove it. About every other one of the fins was clooged with what appears to be caked detergent. I've not been in there since I moved in 18 months ago, so i cleaned the fins and ran a cycle without the fins (cleanish load anyway). No water on the floor! Now to replace the sieve and do another light load. Christopher.Greaves@CapCanada.Com www.interlog.com/~cgreaves * 1st 2.00b #6263 * When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty --- PCBoard (R) v15.3 (OS/2) 5 * Origin: FidoNet: CAP/CANADA Support BBS : 416 287-0234 (1:250/710) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 208 HOME & GARDEN Ref: F4A00001 Date: 04/05/98 From: SOUTHERN STAR Time: 08:54pm \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: Expiration Warning Hello. The Zone 1 Backbone only carries echoes listed in the Zone 1/2 EchoList. It seems that the listing for this echo will expire this month. Thus, it is necessary for the moderator to update its listing if it is to remain on the Zone 1 Backbone. For more information please consult these files: BOFAQxxx.TXT and ELISTxxx.ZIP, where "xxx" is the version number. They are available from most hubs or can be requested from 1:1/201 or 1:396/1. Regards, Zone 1 Backbone Operations --- Harvey's Robot v6.00 * Origin: Southern Star - sstar.com - V.32b/V.34+ - 504-885-5928 - (1:396/1)