-------------------------- What Happens if the local FCC or DOC/IOC is taking a long time,3-4 months or more,to "officialy" do anything to stop the jammer's transmissions ? If after all your efforts the jammer still persists in their habits then you may wish to give a few `subtle' hints as to their identity over the air. By `subtle' I mean things like: -comment on how ugly a shade of color his garage door is. -how badly his garbage cans need to be replaced. -how messy his co-ax runs are from the tower to the basement/second floor window is,and how your 2 yr. old can do better. -comment on how the kids shouldn't leave bicycles in the driveway. (assuming he/she/it has kids that is) -make a comment regarding their cat/dog and how ugly it is. -comment on the ugly paint job on the car they drive,and how you would never be caught dead in such a death-trap. (don't mention the color though) -if you know the person's former military rank you can use that to poke fun at them as well. ("How long did you stay on KP the first time Captain?") NEVER give a full-blown ID over the air,just a few hints to let them know that they have been caught will do. As the jammer has had their fun messing with other people's minds a little directed their way will surely goad them into further action on the repeater thus strengthening any possible case being made against them. It may also give them a case of the shakes that they have been CAUGHT. Just remember that the whole time this is going on to have two of the unters parked close enough to the jammer's location to CONFIRM it is them doing it and not a copycat jammer. If it's a copycat,they have just made themselves a target for hunting later! Sooner or later if there are enough lodged complaints about the jammer there will be an action taken against them by the FCC or DOC/IOC. --------------------- Remember: - Most jammers require an audience to satisfy their egos,give it an audience for bait then go tracking. - The average jammer is scared witless about being caught or identified by ny one who may know them. (public shame when their friends find out) - If caught most vehemently DENY doing it even when caught by 3 or more of he hunters right to their front doors. - Most if not all jammers have an ego so big they may be dumb enough to do it from their own home and think they can get away with it. (BELIEVE IT !) - Listen to the characteristics of the jammer's signal and if you can make an audio tape of the signal to listen to again later. (you may be able to pick up background noises or microphone characteristics from your tape-recording that you may have heard before or recognize.) - KEEP A RECORD of the jammer's habits/time/repeaters or people he/she/it is in a habit of attacking to get an idea of what their pattern of jamming is. (Most jammers DO after awhile get into a habit of doing jamming the same way every time,which gives you an advantage on being able to predict roughly when they will be likely to be `out and about' for hunting.) - A BIG thing to remember is if you intend to start a local DF-ing group is o keep it small and above all.....KEEP QUIET ABOUT IT ! (yes,QUIET!!!!!!!!) Something said at the wrong time or place can ruin any efforts to nail a jammer if they know you exist and are out to get them. Any info gathered is to be considered RESTRICTED to only those members out doing the actual hunting and to NOT BE REPEATED to anyone outside the group. Just a few tips to catch 'em and NAIL 'em. Hope it helps out,it has worked here to catch and ID at least one jammer. For those more interested in it there is a book on transmitter hunting that is published by the ARRL and they have several methods and articles/projects to help track and find hidden T's or jammers. A properly built Doppler system may get you to the jammer faster than most 2 meter beam multi-element arrays,but it's even better if you have a few earing headings from base stations to narrow a search area down a bit more. (saves you wasting your gas !) --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EGQ00007 Date: 12/21/97 From: ROB DENNIS Time: 12:31am \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Jammer Hunting Part 3 Original article from: Rob Dennis Reposted by Moderator HAM_TECH,for use of the FIDO HAM_TECH echo. THIS POST/SERIES NOT TO BE USED IN ANY CDROM COMPILATIONS FOR COMMERCIAL SALE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION OF ORIGINAL AUTHOR(S) OF THIS POST. ALL AND ANY COPYRIGHTS RETAINED BY AUTHOR(S). Author: Rob,VE3SJN Subj: DF'ing a Jammer,some Hints,Kinks & Tips Revised: Dec. 1997 Part 3 of 3 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Something new I just started playing with is APRS for use as a DF tool. Using Automatic Position Reporting System software you can now do DF'ing ith only one base and some other mobiles or bases. The version of the software I have is APRS796.ZIP for DOS. This ZIP compressed file can be downloaded from: Landline BBS: ARIZONA : 602 938-7528 N7QVU FIDO FREQ APRS@1:109/239 S.CAROLINA: 864-299-6185 W4VIW's FIDO 1:3639/68 TORONTO : 905 792-7890 FIDO NET 161/911 INTERNET Web Pages: @tapr.org in the tapr/SIG/aprssig/files/upload directory http://web.usna.navy,mil/~bruninga/aprs.html http://www.ccnet.com/~rwilkins/aprs.html (California) http://www.mindspring.com/~rwf/aprs.html (Atlanta) http://www-ns.rutgers.edu/~ksproul/MacAPRS.html (MAC) http://overworld.compuserve.com/homepages/APRS_KC http://www.sprynet.com/sprynet/ku0g Once you have the APRS software ZIP,make a a directory on your hard-drive called APRS. (ie: C:\APRS ) To de-compress the APRS796.ZIP archive you -MUST- use the following command: pkunzip -d aprs796.zip C:\APRS This will undo the ZIP,and create all the sub-directories structure of the APRS software on the C:\ drive in a directory called APRS. Read the docs that came with it for more info on how to use it. In the documentation that comes with this version of the software there are text files describing how to use the APRS software for DF-ing a signal while using omni-directional antennas and only one base station set-up. While I am still reading the documentation and playing with the software ere on my Baycom TNC,I thought it would be of interest to those having problems with local repeater jammers or into "fox-hunting" who may want to get a copy of the software to play with and experiment for themselves. I'll post more on it after I finish reading the docs some more and do some more DF testing. --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EGQ00008 Date: 12/21/97 From: ROB DENNIS Time: 12:32am \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: 2m homebrew duckie Original article from: Rob Dennis (ve3sjn@igs.net) Reposted by Rob Dennis,Moderator HAM_TECH,for use of the FIDO HAM_TECH echo. THIS POST/SERIES NOT TO BE USED IN ANY CDROM COMPILATIONS FOR COMMERCIAL SALE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION OF ORIGINAL AUTHOR(S) OF THIS POST. ALL AND ANY COPYRIGHTS RETAINED BY AUTHOR(S). Home-brew 2m Rubber Duckie: --------------------------- Something I did one afternoon while listening to one of our local `geniuses' "debating" on how you could -NOT- build a 2m rubber-duckie antenna yourself. He was insisting it could only be done by a commercial manufacturer with all sorts of hi-tech equipment to design,model,make and tune etc,blah-blah-blah. BULL! This was done during the 30 minutes he rambled on about how "impossible" it was to make yourself,then put on the air and tested with him as one of those on the repeater asked for a signal report into the repeater. He was very,very quiet after he found out what antenna was I was testing.... ---------------------------------- Home-brew 2m duckie from scrap bits: The bits: 1 BNC connector (reclaimed from an old network cable) 24 inches of RG-58 co-ax (scrap from a 11m antenna) Some heatshrink tubing (short bits never used for anything) The tools: A VHF/UHF SWR bridge Some adapters to connewct the HT and antenna onto the bridge Solder and 25-40w soldering iron Small nippy-cutters Co-ax or wire strippers The method: Strip and solder the BNC connector onto one end of the RG-58 co-ax as you would normally solder any BNC to co-ax. 8-9 inches up from the end of the BNC connector,where the locknut goes into the base,trim off the outer jacket of the RG-58 and leave the braid bare. Carefully roll the braid back down over itself and onto the outer jacket of the RG-58 towards the BNC. When you have the braid rolled back to the BNC you can trim off the excess if there is any so that the braid is 1/4 inch above the BNC. Use the heat-shrink tubing to cover the braid from where it starts to roll over itself,down onto the base of the BNC connector. To tune the duckie,mount the duckie onto the antenna jack of the SWR bridge, and then the bridge onto the top of a 2m handie-talkie. Use nippy cutters to trim the tip of the center-conductor for the lowest SWR you can over the range you want to use it on. (simplex or repeater inputs) NEVER trim more than an 1/8 of an inch at a time! If you trim to long of a piece in one shot you may take off too much. Once you have the antenna tuned for where you want to use it,heatshrink the tip to protect it from moisture and your all set to go out and try it. My Results: Mine had an SWR of 1.2 to 1 across 146.500 to 147.900 with a 2.5w input from my TH-26 Kenwood 2m HT on a fully charged battery pack. The repeater I used for the test is over 15Kms. from my house and I stood in my kitchen while transmitting with no other objects closer than 4 feet to the antenna or radio. Recieve was normal compared to the stock Khul-Duckie I normally used on the TH-26 and the transmit only had minor white-noise on it into the repeater. The white-moise vanished when I stepped out the front door and stood on the front porch to access the repeater. Not bad for a butt-ugly "rubber" duck that was slapped together from scrap parts you may already have lying in a box somewhere in the shack. Also a nice little emergency duckie if you need one NOW when the one you had just got smashed by someone knocking it off a picnic-table on field-day! --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EGQ00009 Date: 12/21/97 From: ROB DENNIS Time: 12:32am \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: HF under the deck Original article from: Rob Dennis Reposted by Moderator HAM_TECH,for use of the FIDO HAM_TECH echo. THIS POST/SERIES NOT TO BE USED IN ANY CDROM COMPILATIONS FOR COMMERCIAL SALE WITHOUT EXPRESS WRITTEN PERMISSION OF ORIGINAL AUTHOR(S) OF THIS POST. ALL AND ANY COPYRIGHTS RETAINED BY AUTHOR(S). HIDDEN HF DIPOLE UNDER THE DECK: While looking for a way to have an antenna for packet/FM that was NOT on my tower,I found a nice place to put it (other than hanging from the ceiling). There was just enough space under my deck out back to hide a RS discone. While under the deck,and looking at all those nice wooden beams,I wondered how hard it would be to hide a folded HF dipole there. This could be done in as little as 12 inches of clearance between the deck and the ground or as much as 2 feet like I had to play with. Parts : 1 50 foot roll of "zip-cord" speaker or lamp wire. A foot or two of scrap insulated wire. Garbage bag twist ties.(the ones everyone hoards in the garage) Some 1 inch finishing nails. A chassis PL-259 connector.(the square ones with screw holes in) Length of co-ax long enough to reach to the rig. Method: Unroll the zip-cord off the reel,then split it down the middle. You now have 2, 50 foot lengths to play with. Strip the scrap wire insulation in half inch bits. Slip the bits of insulation onto the finishing nails. Strip one end of each 50 foot piece of wire,and solder one wire to the enter of the chassis PL-259 and the other 50 foot wire thru a screw hole. Under the deck,put the nails in the beams so that the wires will look like a pair of "S" curves. =========X X========= | | |========= =========| | | =========| |========= The PL-259 should be at the "X". The "S" can also be `head-to-head' as well,just depends on the space you ave to play with under the deck.(like |-X X-| ) The "S" could also have more than one "S" curve per leg. The nails go in each corner of the "S" to support the wire. Use the twist-ties to hold the wire onto the nails on top of the insulation to keep the wire away from the wood. Run some co-ax to it,tune-up,and away you go. May not work on 80 meters,but should do for 40 and up. ... "If they say it CAN'T be done ,prove them WRONG and do it"de VE3SJN ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.11 -!- Maximus 2.02 ! Origin: Ready & Determined (1:163/506) --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EGQ00010 Date: 12/21/97 From: ROB DENNIS Time: 12:37am \/To: ALL (Read 0 times) Subj: Echo Rules ECHO RULES: 1) Keep it technical, Amateur Radio orientated. 2) Keep it clean. No flames, cussing, racial remarks, etc. 3) Modifications that allow Amateur Radios to transmit out of band are allowed and can be posted on the echo if they meet the following: o No TX Amateur to CB band Modifications. o No TX Amateur to Cellular Phone Band Modifications. o No TX Amateur to Military Air (not MARS/CAP) VHF/UHF Modifications. o ALL Amateur call signs must be included; to and from. o NO 'TO ALL' OOB TX MODS!!!! ****************************************************** * THERE WILL BE NO WARNINGS FOR MILITARY AIR * * VHF/UHF TX MODS. YOU WILL BE GONE! * * NO EXCEPTIONS! * ****************************************************** It is suggested that if you and the receiving party have netmail, send the actual modification netmail. IF not, you may post it on HAM_TECH provided you add this simple statement / warning along with your call signs: "This modification will allow the transceiver to transmit out of the legal Amateur Radio frequency bands. It is your responsibility concerning the operation of the transceiver on frequency bands outside your legal Amateur Radio Bands." I will see MARS/CAP call signs included for MARS/CAP mods. 4) No Citizen's Band (CB) radio discussions except conversions to Amateur Radio. 5) For sale items belong on for sale echos. Remember: 'ON TOPIC' is anything inside the realm of the rules. NO 'TO ALL' OOB TX MODIFICATIONS!!! Moderator: Rob Dennis, 1:163/506.4 2240 Bank Street Box 40017 Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1V-0W8 VE3SJN Internet: VE3SJN@igs.net Assistant Moderator: Jeff Edmonson, 1:387/510 ka5thb@bigfoot.com --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EGQ00011 Date: 12/20/97 From: PAUL WILLIAMS Time: 03:39am \/To: JEFF EDMONSON (Read 0 times) Subj: `Holler' state gear. Hi Jeff Edmonson, hope you are having a nice day PW>> You mean receiver`S'. Got two of them holler state gizmos. ;> JE> We need to talk, son. So it would be a good idea to mention the TS-510A/U 10 - 420Mhz signal generator that my monitor sits on, and what appears to be an SB-200/220, but not a good idea to mention the collins rig I let get away? -=> Yours sincerely, Paul Williams KB5IVG <=- ... "Uhhhh, okay, then are you open to bribes?" - JeffH to TamiW --- Terminate 4.00/Pro * Origin: WARNING! I operate a few fries short of a happy meal. 1:387/510.5)