---------------------------- Now for baiting the jammer: This is assuming you have a rough area to start tracking in for the jammer's location and are ready to go if they show up to `play around'. 1) Can you get 2 or 3 of his/her/it's favourite `targets' to co-operate and lay a trap the jammer can't resist playing with ? (most if not all victims will agree to do anything to nail the rotten little S.O.B. if they get a chance at them.) 2) Can the `bait' keep a conversation going long enough to get the jammer all `riled up' by ignoring them no matter what they do ? ===TIP: Have two of the jammer's favourite targets talking to each other both on the `phone AND the repeater at the same time! (ignoring the jammer only makes them jam more often if they see it is having no effect on those they're jamming,and gives you a chance to get a good track or bearing on them.) 3) Can you get the local FCC or DOC/IOC field office or local police force made aware of what you are about to do and get some help from them ? If you catch a jammer red-handed it may help to have someone along with the proper authority to shut them down then and there and lay some charges. As jamming of any type is a federal offence under both the Canadian Radio Act and the FCC regulations you may be lucky and get a local police force to help you when it comes time to ID the jammer. (it can also help your case if the local police have been having problems of their own around the same time as the jammer is active.) 4) If you can't get any `official' department presence get the trustee/owner of the repeater being jammed to come along as a witness and to file any ormal complaints with the FCC or DOC/IOC later. Have all the `hunters' as willing and ready court-witnesses against the jammer if the case ever goes into court. 5) With the advent of home-video it may even be a good idea to video-tape any of the jam-signals as recieved on a radio parked in right front of a jammer's suspected location with no visible antenna connections on the radio. And if you are REAL LUCKY you may get a video of the culprits themselves through a window from across the street. ---------------------------- Tracking A Jammer: Methods can and do vary depending on the terrain you have to go under,over r through to get a bearing on the signal you are after. Short of a full-blown Doppler on the mobile to play with here are some ways that may sound strange at first but odd enough they WORK. 1) Tracking a signal starting in a rough area close to the source: PLEASE obey any and all rules of the road,don't go driving around like your out to try for the INDY500. The driver does the driving and the co-pilot does the tracking,PERIOD. Some simple tools to carry along for hunting: -4 element 2m beam -1/4 wave magnetic-mount antenna -PL-259 and/or BNC connector with 2 inch length of wire soldered into the center pin of the connector,insulated from the connector's ground-side. (this depends on the radio you are using.) -an ordinary paper-clip -an up-to-date city map (helps if you know where the heck you are) -LOTS OF PATIENCE!!! --continued in part two.... --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EBN00005 Date: 07/18/97 From: ROB DENNIS Time: 06:49pm \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: Jammer Info Part 2 Continued from Part 1....... ------------------------------- Find yourself a high-ground spot such as a parking garage roof and use the 4 element beam to get a rough direction to head for to start a search. Drive about 2 or 3 blocks in the indicated direction from your high spot and find a parking lot to pull over in. Use the magnet mounted 1/4 wave stuck as far back as you can get on the runk lid of a car or roof of a van,and drive in circle in the nearest large arking lot. Have a co-pilot aboard to watch the signal meter in the radio for a peak as you drive around. This peak should come directly in front of the car's hood,and that's where you should head for. Drive about 2 or 3 blocks in the general direction indicated and find nother parking lot to repeat the `doughnut' driving again to get another bearing. Repeat as needed until the signal can be heard with the radio squelch set on fully. Un-do the co-ax connector on the radio so that only the center pin makes any contact with the jack and see what the signal strength is. If you can still hear and see the signal you're close to the source. Now use the PL-259 or BNC connector inplace of your normal antenna and see f you can still hear/see the signal. Replace the connector with a paper clip in the center of the radio's antenna jack and see what the difference is in the signal. If you can still hear it and see a weak signal on the radio's display you're close enough to get out of the car and look around for antennas/towers etc. If no parking lots close by,then look around for something you can use as a `block' to knock the signal down. A `block' can be anything solid from a garbage dumpster to a full-size van r tractor-trailer's trailer,human torso, or driveway beside a two story house. As you move behind or around a `block' the signal should drop on one side of your blocking object only. When this happens the incoming signal should be on the OPPOSITE side of the blocking object as you have just given yourself a `null' point. If you are using a hand-held for close-in work you can use your own body as the `block' by holding the HT close to your tummy and turning around in a ull circle to find your `null'. The null will be when the incoming sgnal is blocked by your tummy from the radio's antenna and the singal meter in the radio drops. The paper clip can then be used in place of the HT antenna by simply ticking it into the center of the BNC connector on the HT. With the paper clip acting as the antenna you should be able to walk right p to the signal's source. Once you have the source of the signal pegged to a specific address or car (it may be a parked jammer) get the address or licence plate tag for later. Also take note of specific identifying details of the vehicle or property of the jammer you may want to use later.(see the `What Happens...' section.) UNDER -=> NO <=- CIRCUMSTANCES: -CONFRONT THE JAMMER FACE-TO-FACE. -TRESPASS ONTO THE JAMMER'S PROPERTY. Since he/she/it is the one breaking a law why should you? A face-to-face may turn ugly if the jammer decides to make it so,and since you may not know who or what you are dealing with,it makes sense to play it safe for all the hunters involved. Give all the necessary info to the proper authorities and let them deal with it,as they have the authority to issue search warrants,fines or seize the offending person's gear. Lodge a formal,written complaint with the local FCC or DOC/IOC office signed by all witness or hunters involved in tracking the jammer. If a repeater trustee/owner is involved they should file their own formal written complaint against the jammer as well. Be prepared to go to court IF needed as witnesses. --------------------------- What Happens if the local FCC or DOC/IOC is taking a long time,3-4 months or more,to officialy do anything to stop the jammer's transmissions ? If after all your efforts the jammer still persists in their habits then you may wish to give a few `subtle' hints as to their identity over the air. By `subtle' I mean things like: -comment on how ugly a shade of color his garage door is. -how badly his garbage cans need to be replaced. -how messy his co-ax runs are from the tower to the basement/second floor window is,and how your 2 yr. old can do better. -comment on how the kids shouldn't leave bicycles in the driveway. (assuming he/she/it has kids that is) -make a comment regarding their cat/dog and how ugly it is. -comment on the ugly paint job on the car they drive,and how you would never be caught dead in such a death-trap. (don't mention the color though) -if you know the person's former military rank you can use that to poke fun at them as well. ("How long did you stay on KP the first time Captain?") NEVER give a full-blown ID over the air,just a few hints to let them know that they have been caught will do. As the jammer has had their fun messing with other people's minds a little directed their way will surely goad them into further action on the repeater thus strengthening any possible case being made against them. It may also give them a case of the shakes that they have been CAUGHT. Just remember that the whole time this is going on to have two of the unters parked close enough to the jammer's location to CONFIRM it is them doing it and not a copycat jammer. If it's a copycat,they have just made themselves a target for hunting later! Sooner or later if there are enough lodged complaints about the jammer there will be an action taken against them by the FCC or DOC/IOC. --------------------- Remember: - Most jammers require an audience to satisfy their egos,give it an audience for bait then go tracking. - The average jammer is scared witless about being caught or identified by ny one who may know them. (public shame when their friends find out) If caught most vehemently DENY doing it even when caught by 3 or more of he hunters right to their front doors. - Most if not all jammers have an ego so big they may be dumb enough to do it from their own home and think they can get away with it. (BELIEVE IT !) - Listen to the characteristics of the jammer's signal and if you can make an audio tape of the signal to listen to again later. (you may be able to pick up background noises or microphone characteristics from your tape-recording that you may have heard before or recognize.) - KEEP A RECORD of the jammer's habits/time/repeaters or people he/she/it is in a habit of attacking to get an idea of what their pattern of jamming is. (Most jammers DO after awhile get into a habit of doing jamming the same way every time,which gives you an advantage on being able to predict roughly when they will be likely to be `out and about' for hunting.) - A BIG thing to remember is if you intend to start a local DF-ing group is o keep it small and above all KEEP QUIET ABOUT IT ! Something said at the wrong/time place can ruin any efforts to nail a ammer if they know you exist and are out to get them. Any info gathered is to be considered RESTRICTED to only those members out doing the actual hunting and to NOT BE REPEATED to anyone outside the group. Just a few tips to catch 'em and NAIL 'em. Hope it helps out,it has worked here to catch and ID at least one jammer. For those more interested in it there is a book on transmitter hunting that is published by the ARRL and they have several methods and articles/projects to help track and find hidden T's or jammers. A properly built Doppler system may get you to the jammer faster than most 2 meter beam multi-element arrays,but it's even better if you have a few earing headings from base stations to narrow a search area down a bit more. (saves you wasting your gas !) GOOD LUCK AND BEST HUNTING ! VE3SJN ==================== I hate having to do this folks,but a CDROM publishing company just loves to archive things like this for use on their CD's. ==================== Copyright Notice: This file and contents copyright 1993-97 by VE3SJN,and posted for the use of the FIDO HAM_TECH Echo message area and its readers. It is NOT to be archived to ANY commercial CDROM compilations,or for posting to Internet newsgroups without contacting the author for permission. Permission IS given to keep on a land-line based BBS system as a general nfo file for user's to download with this notice intact in the footer. VE3SJN (ve3sjn@igs.net) 2440 Bank Street (snail-mail) Box 40017 Ottawa,Ontario Canada K 1 V - 0 W 8 --- GoldED 2.42.G1219 * Origin: VE3SJN....Moderator....HAM_TECH (1:163/506.4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EBN00006 Date: 07/18/97 From: JEFF EDMONSON Time: 08:49am \/To: HENNING HERTZ (Read 2 times) Subj: 6146s > Hi, there! > Anyone out there who can tell me if there are any significant > differences between the 6146B and the 6146W? > I stumbled over some W's mil surplus, all brand new and in > original cartons, > and I intend to use them to keep my old TS520 alive - that is, > if they will do the job properly, of course. The W designated the "military" version of the tube - more rugged. It'll take more punishment and keep on working (some radiomen were, after all, just Military personal! ) There's no difference in them, except that the W will last longer in your rig (probably a life time) I've never heard of a 6146 going bad, though - I've got some here, that were original equipment in an old E.F. Johnson Viking II, that are still in use today (in an HT-37, because I was checking something out) both sets are still good! 73 = Best Regards -Jeff KA5THB ka5thb@bigfoot.com --- FMail 1.02 * Origin: Electronic Avenue BBS 210-533-5668 San Antonio, TX (1:387/510) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EBN00007 Date: 07/18/97 From: PATRICK GORMLEY Time: 07:40am \/To: HENNING HERTZ (Read 2 times) Subj: 6146's -> Hi, there! -> -> Anyone out there who can tell me if there are any significant -> differences between the 6146B and the 6146W? -> -> I stumbled over some W's mil surplus, all brand new and in original -> cartons, and I intend to use them to keep my old TS520 alive - that -> is, if they will do the job properly, of course. -> -> BTW if one of You come across a TV506, functional or non-op pls let -> me know... (as NetMail is pretty unreliable across the Atlantic I -> can be reached at: henning.hertz@235-203-11.fido.plys.net) -> -> -> 73 de OZ6TY -> Henning Hertz -> --- Babel v0.14 -> * Origin: PointBlank (2:235/203.11)Hedding the 6146b is the tube designed for the ts520. A couple of years ago, I substituted the 6146b for a set of 6146's in an old heathkit I had which worked but you had to turn the mic gain down because they saturated very easily when driven by a 6cl6. 73- Kk3F --- Platinum Xpress/Wildcat! v1.3 * Origin: The TALKING HUB * Alexandria, VA * (703) 549-5612 (1:109/632) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EBN00008 Date: 07/17/97 From: MARK MAGILL Time: 08:43pm \/To: ALL (Read 2 times) Subj: Icom IC-290H All-Mode, Mic Question A friend wants to sell me his Icom IC-290-H 5/50 watt radio. It handles AM/FM/CW/USB/LSB etc. However, he said that in order to generate PL tones, it needs a specical microphone that apparently has the tone-injection circuitry in it. He doesn't have one, and bought the radio used so we don't know much about it. PL tones have only become necessary around here quite recently. Does anyone have experience with this radio (good-bad-etc) or know where I can get the mic, or how expensive its likely to be if its still available? Thanks much for any help - He wants $200 for the radio, which SEEMS fair... if I can get it to generate PL tones. If not, it would be essentially useless around here except for packet and 1-2 un-PL'd repeaters which will also require a PL soon. The local PL freqs are 100.0 and 146.2Hz. Any help or leads to help appreciated. Mark KC7RUB (mmagill@Iname.com) --- * Origin: The Gate - Coos Bay, Oregon USA (1:356/4) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 188 HAM TECH Ref: EBN00009 Date: 07/18/97 From: JAMES AESCHLIMAN Time: 05:18pm \/To: HENNING HERTZ (Read 2 times) Subj: 6146s <<***** On 07-17-97, HENNING HERTZ wrote to WHOEVER KNOWS: *****>> HH>Hi, there! HH> HH>Anyone out there who can tell me if there are any significant differences HH>between the 6146B and the 6146W? HH> HH>I stumbled over some W's mil surplus, all brand new and in original HH>cartons, HH>and I intend to use them to keep my old TS520 alive - that is, if they HH>will do the job properly, of course. HH> This question came up in one of the ham news groups on the internet. There were many many postings, but I believe they finally decided that the 6146W is interchangable with the 6146 and 6146A, but not with the 6146B. They said the 6146W is a military version of the 6146A. I still have the original tubes in by TS-520S, so I haven't faced this problem yet. James Aeschliman KD7MK Black Diamond, Washington bb840@scn.org --- * VbReader V1.41* Ok, now for a quick backu+A+&2#^1s= --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.12 * Origin: Lake Sawyer Ski Naked BBS (1:343/6.0)