--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4M00000 Date: 04/16/97 From: JOHN PUMMILL Time: 06:22pm \/To: LANDON ROBINSON (Read 1 times) Subj: Corp.engines LR> LR> I thought that might be what corp. meant. Sounds like a LR> LR> good idea too, one LR> LR> line of engines instead of five. LR> JP> But we lost so much character. LR> JP> LR> JP> -!- FMail 0.94 LR> JP> ! Origin: Used ?? I Prefer Well Broken In (1:123/30) LR> What do you mean by lost so much character? Everything is the same, same torque, same horsepower, etc. No characteristics to distinguish each from another. --- FMail 0.94 * Origin: Used ?? I Prefer Well Broken In (1:123/30) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4M00001 Date: 04/16/97 From: DOC SAVAGE Time: 11:28pm \/To: GENE COOK (Read 1 times) Subj: Jag Parts * In a message originally to All, Gene Cook said: > I am restoring a 69 XKE and when I had the tank done, the company > that I used lost the float and sender, the pickup tube, and the > sump. I am trying to locate replacement parts but as most of you Just out of curiosity, why isn't the company that lost the pieces finding you replacement pieces?? --- * Origin: Genius At Work BBS, 407-574-7303, Deltona FL, 1:3618/3 (1:3618/3) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4M00002 Date: 04/16/97 From: LANDON ROBINSON Time: 01:50pm \/To: ALEXANDER BILAN (Read 1 times) Subj: Re: Corp.engines -=> Quoting Alexander Bilan to Landon Robinson <=- AB> @MSGID: 1:2401/0.0 464ea90d > I guess I was looking at it from an economics point of view where it > would > be cheaper for GM to have one line of engines (and therefore one line of AB> No arguing that fact. > accessories). From what I have seen compaired to Buick and Pontiac small > blocks Chevy has the easiest design to work on, no weird bolts that can > only be purchased that the dealer, etc. AB> I'd say thats more becuase the Chevy is more common at any period of AB> time. Economics of mass production which goes into the availability of AB> the aftermarket stuff. AB> However, i'd disagree with the bolt thing. You can get bolts from ARP AB> produced item) any half decent fastener store (Which is NOT the local The "weird bolts" I'm talking about are the head bolts that were casted with a stud sticking out of the top of them. ... Catch the Blue Wave! --- Blue Wave v2.12 [NR] * Origin: The Overworked Dragon BBS (503)256-8451 PDX (1:105/56) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00000 Date: 04/17/97 From: GENE COOK Time: 05:07am \/To: DOC SAVAGE (Read 1 times) Subj: Re: Jag Parts -=> Quoting Doc Savage to Gene Cook <=- DS> @MSGID: 1:3618/3 58f3fe0e DS> * In a message originally to All, Gene Cook said: > I am restoring a 69 XKE and when I had the tank done, the company > that I used lost the float and sender, the pickup tube, and the > sump. I am trying to locate replacement parts but as most of you DS> Just out of curiosity, why isn't the company that lost the pieces DS> finding you replacement pieces?? The parts can be procured without a search like I am currently working on but they are expensive from used part suppliers. Perhaps I am wrong, but I think that if I insisted that they replace the parts, due to the cost, they would maintain that they never recieved the parts. I would be hard pressed to prove that they did since I don't have a video tape or receipt of them recieving the individual parts, just the tank itself. I could take them to court in a case like this but I think that the best that I am going to get here is to make an effort to find the parts at a reasonable price and then insist that they compensate me. This approach does not compensate me for my time but lets face it, if time was something you did not want to invest in an automobile, you wouldn't buy an old car and the only answer that I am going to get out of this firm unless I point them to where they can be procured is that they cannot find them. Even if I find the parts at a reasonable price, it is no guarantee that I will be paid but I believe that it is my best shot. Thanks for your interest, I feel that I have been wronged in this case and I appreciate you taking the time to point out that you apparently agree. --- Blue Wave v2.12 * Origin: COMM Port OS/2 juge.com 204.89.247.1 (281) 980-9671 (1:106/2000) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00001 Date: 04/17/97 From: LANDON ROBINSON Time: 12:47pm \/To: ALL (Read 1 times) Subj: Help! I know that this is way off subject, (well the pistons came out of something older than '77 so I guess it's not). If anyone lives in the SE/NE Portland (Oregon) metro area and has a hydraulic press I can use to take some wrist pins out please let me know. I have tried the BFH/punch method and I do not own a welding torch. The local machine shop wants $5 per piston to do the job and I'd rather not pay $$$ for pistons that are going to the scrap yard anyway. ... Catch the Blue Wave! --- Blue Wave v2.12 [NR] * Origin: The Overworked Dragon BBS (503)256-8451 PDX (1:105/56) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00002 Date: 04/15/97 From: TOM COLLINS Time: 01:12am \/To: LANDON ROBINSON (Read 1 times) Subj: Re: argument LR> You wouldn't happen to know of any place that mail orders complete LR> fenders (just the "fender" fender, not the crome, trim, etc.) for a LR> 1968 Chevy Impala? All of the fenders I've found in the junk yards LR> around here look about as bad as the ones that I all ready have on the LR> car. Wow.....I'm not sure there are any that do. I'd think your best bet may be a NOS parts dealer. Have you looked through a Hemmings? Tom ... For a Breath, I Tarry. . . ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12 --- GOMail v2.0 [94-0125] * Origin: H-E-B BBS Help!!! get me out of here!!! (1:130/901) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00003 Date: 04/17/97 From: ALEXANDER BILAN Time: 05:00pm \/To: LANDON ROBINSON (Read 1 times) Subj: Corp.engines > AB> produced item) any half decent fastener store (Which is NOT the > local > > The "weird bolts" I'm talking about are the head bolts that were casted > with a stud sticking out of the top of them. Shouldn't be too difficult to purchase. We used a similar "double stud" for mounting televisions to walls/ceilings. Alex. | AmiQWK 2.7 - S/N 0261 | ... I saw Elvis. He sat between me and Bigfoot on the UFO. --- OLMS 2.60p.a1+ [EPMBP73M] * Origin: Multiboard * 519-660-3574 * Internet * 4GB * (1:2401/0) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00004 Date: 04/16/97 From: BRUCE LEGRANDE Time: 03:04am \/To: ALEXANDER BILAN (Read 1 times) Subj: LF: Alternator Specs * Reply to a message in MYMAIL. Alexander Bilan wrote in a message to Bruce Legrande: AB> Your run of the mill GM 10SI unit charges at aprox 1200rpm. AB> AC Delco parts sells an alternator which is designed for low rpm AB> use, its output starts at about 1000 rpm. AB> You won't find anything that puts out anything substantial below AB> 1000rpm. I'm looking at a 100A GM single-wire rebuilt unit (for $120), that is supposed to have a "current monitoring" built-in regulator that is advertised to charge whenever it's needed. I'll have to throw those RPM speeds at them and see if they know what I'm referring to. The idle speed of the engine is 675, and I'm sure I could probably bring that up to 700 without any problems. But according to what you state (above), I'll still have to raise it a bit more. I wonder if there's any way to automatically raise the engine RPM (via throttle) when the alt' senses that it needs to charge, and then lowers the RPM again when charging is done. AB> What will be turning this alternator? And if its automotive use, AB> you should look into a dual batter setup to drive your accessories AB> if your pushing the limits of things. 1970 Jeep Wagoneer V8-350 (Buick Engine) I've already considered the dual battery config, and plan on doing that when finances allow. Those 'new' Optima SpiralCore batteries look good for placing one on each side of the cargo area (inside) just behind the wheelwells. Well, lets see... There'll be my Amateur Radio gear (VHF/HF) which will draw about 8 amps in receive and 25-30 in transmit. Then the stereo and amp, add another 10-12 amps there. Add things like the laptop, driving lights, etc... and I think we can easily see a minimum of 30 amps to a maximum of over 60 total (including ignition). Does that sound realistic to you ? AB> This regulator is good for upto 100 amps, and if the parts guy is AB> having difficulty locating it, its a marine part. I've thought about using marine parts, and I figure that the RPM speed might be a bit lower on them (or do I have that backwards ?), requiring less speed in order to produce the rated charging level. Thanks for your reply. Bruce - kb6lwn - ck1@pacbell.net --- * Origin: Covenant Keeper Network Server * 707-987-ISDN (1:2003/1) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00005 Date: 04/16/97 From: BRUCE LEGRANDE Time: 11:27pm \/To: ALEXANDER BILAN (Read 1 times) Subj: LF: Alternator Specs Alexander Bilan wrote in a message to Bruce Legrande: AB> Your run of the mill GM 10SI unit charges at aprox 1200rpm. AB> AC Delco parts sells an alternator which is designed for low rpm AB> use, its output starts at about 1000 rpm. AB> You won't find anything that puts out anything substantial below AB> 1000rpm. Hey Alex... I just got to thinking (surprizing - huh !? :) When you mention the 1000-1200 RPM values above, are you talking about the speed that the alt' needs to spin at, or are you talking about the engine speed ? If the crank pulley is 15cm and the alt' pulley is 7cm, this is a ratio of over 2:1. If the engine is at 700 RPM, would the alt' be going fast enough to reach that 1000-1200 point at idle ? If not, could the sizes of the pulleys be changed in order to obtain this rate ? --- * Origin: Covenant Keeper Network Server * 707-987-ISDN (1:2003/7) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E4N00006 Date: 04/18/97 From: MODERATOR Time: 12:10am \/To: ALL (Read 1 times) Subj: Rules of the OLDCARS Echo Rules for FidoNet's OLDCARS Echo *** Revised 3-18-96 *** The following are the rules for the OLDCARS FIDO-NET echo conference. This conference is carried on the FIDO-NET backbone and is moderated by Gerry Calhoun at 1:2004/200. These rules will be subject to change if a change seems needed or is requested. Enforcement of the rules will be handled in the echo and/or via net-mail. Repeated violations of the rules may be considered grounds for the offending node to have its link to this conference cut. Rule #1: Please try to keep your language suitable to all ages. Remember this message base is open to all age groups, and some may take offense to foul language. Rule #2: The topic here is OLD CARS. What makes a car an old car? For the purpose of this echo, a pre 1975 car in general is qualifed to be considered an OLD CAR. But this is a very flexible rule as limited production cars of newer vintage may be considered on topic. If in doubt, ask the Moderator. Rule #3: No unsolicited commerical sales announcements please. This echo is carried by sysops who foot the bills out of their own pockets for the most part. If sommebody asks for a source of a CAR-RELATED item, feel free to offer advice on where to look for something, or to mention that you have what they are looking for. If you have something which you feel may be of interest to somebody here and are NOT in the business of selling that item and it is OLD CAR-related, you may post about it here. Rule #4: No unsolicited BBS ads here. If you know of a system which has a program or file that somebody has asked about, feel free to post the name, phone number and location of the system, but no messages saying "Call this system now" type of thing. Rule #5: Keep the message-quoting to a minimum, please. Most BBS's are run out of the pockets of private sysops, and nobody wants to pay for (or see) a 20-line message quoted in full to have somebody else say "I Agree". Rule #6: Keep the personal attacks to a minimum, please. Everybody has seen messages posted by people who strike you as complete fools, but you do not have to call a person names in order to give an answer or correct him/her on a point. Hold the flames to a mimimum and try to keep this a fun place. These are all the rules for now. If any other points come up in the future, they will be addressed and added to this list if necessary. If there are any questions or comments about these rules, address them to me, Gerry Calhoun, via net-mail ONLY at 1:2004/200. --- * Origin: PETS R US! 805-946-8345 - Lancaster, CA (1:2004/0)