--------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00004 Date: 03/10/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 04:36pm \/To: GERRY CALHOUN (Read 1 times) Subj: 2.2l -> Only a 302 in the MK VI (minor changes from the next generation Town -> Car). But point taken for the timing gear. Thinking of going through -> the engine of the 230K I thought the 460's extended well into the mid 80's in the big Lincolns.... My For Oiling Road Dirt wagon had a 460 with the trailer towing package. (Stump gears in the third member and coolers everywhere) Milage went from 9 to 16 MPG with a steel replacement cam gear and a performance chain. I doubt the 302 will improve THAT much, but the damage if it strips will be REAL discouraging! ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00005 Date: 03/10/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 04:42pm \/To: GERRY CALHOUN (Read 1 times) Subj: engine prob. -> Now that's a heck of an idea. Only question is how do you keep the -> thing lubricated? I would not think the seal life would be long -> without some kind of Pump _UP_ into a surge tank so that the oil condenses and drains back into the compressor. Works great! Another trick: Use a transformer/bridge-rectifier to get yourself some 12 volts for the clutch. Then put the overpressure switch in the circuit to turn the compressor off and on, leaving the motor running. Makes the motor laugh because it is already rolling when the load hits. Lets you set a very narrow differential on the pressure switch without burning up drive motors. -> have here does not do much, even if hooked up to a freon bottle for a -> holding tank. Gives you LOTS of volume for your bucks! ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00006 Date: 03/10/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 06:28pm \/To: GERRY CALHOUN (Read 1 times) Subj: Rims -> What engines did a Baron have (IO-540 comes to mind but I have a hard -> time keeping Lyc's and Cont's straight sometimes). When I was trained -> as an A/P we did magnafluxing and dye-penatrant on EVERYTHING. Barons have IO-520 Continentals. You can tell a Baron from an Aztec without even looking because of the difference in exhaust notes. (The Aztec IO-540 having a much growlier roar.) A Baron on the other hand wraps up much quicker and sounds more like a 265Cu In Chevy SB. Playing with the throttles while jockying for taxi gets everybody's attention in a Baron. The TGIO-520's in the Excalibur Beech with the HUGE augmenters have the prettiest sound in flat engine aviation! (Nothing compares with a R-985 idling though!) -> I think I would have PUSHED him out to fix it :) It sounded a lot worse than it really was. About a thirty degree retarded spark makes for a LOT of backfiring and bucking. The poor old engine couldn't figure out whether to just jump OFF the wing or lie down and die. Getting the power off it improved its outlook on life a LOT. -> Besides a Baron is not a real airplane anyway... engines that look -> like they got ran over, somebody chopped off the upper wing The engines are altogether too flat to be photogenic, and the tail _would_ look better closer to the ground, but appearances aside that's a moneymaking essobee! Just about anything you can get IN it it'll fly away with. Maybe a few pounds less than an Aztec, and not as easy to load, but 20 knots faster on the same gas loaded. Nicer on people cargo too! -> Last good Beech was the 17, but the 18 was at least 2/3's of an A/C Nope, you've overlooked the Queen Air / Excalibur conversions! Jeezuz you can haul 6 bales of hay, the cowboys AND the horses, and hold a dance en-route! I've seen one loaded FULL of TVs, VCR's, and Catapillar parts get off in 800 feet, and land to a stop in 500! DAMN SCARY! Firewalling THAT 1200 horses is awsome! -> Great Lakes any day. as of twenty years ago it was the only A/C I -> know of that never had a A.D. against it. I don't doubt that for an instant! They were built for bear and intended to last. A 110 pound GIRL showed up at an aerobatic contest with one once, and kicked EVERYBODY'S butt! Wish I could remember her name. Little bitty scrawny thing with long brunette hair. Knew what to push and pull to make that thing dance. I'd have traded my Airknocker for her........ So little time and so many old airplanes to fly! ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00007 Date: 03/10/97 From: GERALD CHRISTOFFEL Time: 09:24pm \/To: GERRY CALHOUN (Read 1 times) Subj: engine prob. > EH> The compressor is made out of an OLD piston type Caddy air > EH> conditioner compressor and it's lasted 25 years. No reason the > Now that's a heck of an idea. Only question is how do you keep the thing > lubricated? I would not think the seal life would be long without some > kind of lubrication. Might be worth some thinking about. Ceap little > sears compressor I have here does not do much, even if hooked up to a > freon bottle for a holding tank. Any York commpressor off Fords or the V type from a Chrysler product works great. I've heard of guys using the rotary GM's too but a little more difficult for lubrication. The best by far is a unit off a central air conditioner. They're quiet, fast and compact. Punch a hole into the top corner with your air chisel rather than drill to avoid so many chips entering into the case. Saw off a short 1/2 pipe nipple at a sharp angle to fit over the hole and weld in place. Cap with a 1/2 pipe cap. Use this port for checking and topping oil levels as both types will pump some oil since neither uses oil rings. For most purposes that's no problem. Big draw back using these is 220 volt. However, you can turn that to advantage. Your friends won't be inclined to borrow, since they'll have trouble finding an outlet. Most of these units will have enough torque to start under normal 125 lbs pressure but an unloader is recommended. Oh, be sure to salvage the starting relay and capacitor. They basically are a voltage relay that measures the starting winding voltage picking up when the motor is near full speed and cutting out the starting capacitor. I can sketch out the circuit if you have trouble here. --- FMail/386 1.22 * Origin: What's_the_Point? (1:140/23.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00008 Date: 03/10/97 From: GERALD CHRISTOFFEL Time: 09:54pm \/To: ELVIS HARGROVE (Read 1 times) Subj: engine prob. > Pump _UP_ into a surge tank so that the oil condenses and drains back > into the compressor. Works great! > Another trick: Use a transformer/bridge-rectifier to get yourself some > 12 volts for the clutch. Then put the overpressure switch in the That's a neat idea, but I think I'd stay away from the freon bottles. >-> have here does not do much, even if hooked up to a freon bottle for a >-> holding tank. > Gives you LOTS of volume for your bucks! I'm sure it would be against the law, although a local comapny does/did sell a kit for freon bottles. Just for the record we did purposely hydro static test one years ago with a commercial testing machine used for gas pipeline to over 300 lbs before the plastic valve popped out. Have no idea how much it would take to actually rupture the tank. Stick with a carry air tank you can buy for less than $50 anywhere. If you MUST use some sort of salvaged tank I'd suggest filling with water and testing to at least 1 1/2 times working pressure. There are couple of easy ways to do this. One method: install a guage, fill PLUMP full of water, screw in a grease nipple. Attach your grease gun and go for it! I had a pressure welder build me a tank long, long ago from 12 inch gas pipe with proper end bells, the works. The dang thing was SO heavy you needed a fork lift to load on a truck! 1/2 in thick steel. I doubt if it took ten squirts with the grease gun to get the thing up to 350 lbs though! There was absolutely no give to the tank! Talk about over kill for 100 lbs. air. Oh! Always install a pressure relief valve that can handle the volume from the compressor. --- FMail/386 1.22 * Origin: What's_the_Point? (1:140/23.10) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00009 Date: 03/10/97 From: LANDON ROBINSON Time: 05:54pm \/To: GERRY CALHOUN (Read 1 times) Subj: Re: HELP !!! -=> Quoting Gerry Calhoun to John Pummill <=- GC> @MSGID: 1:2004/205.0 31eacaa0 GC> John Pummill wrote in a message to Roy Witt: RW> jvgubhg rabhtu oenxvat cbjre. Unir lbh gevrq nal bs gur RW> "byq pne" fhccyl ubhfrf, yvxr Lrne Bar? JP> Was english a part of this conference at one time ?? GC> I think some people may be coming in here to practic eubonics . GC> Gerry GC> -!- timEd 1.10 GC> ! Origin: (1:2004/205) I sat down last night and figured out the entire message that this came from, it is in english... it is just offset by 13 letters. Back each letter up 13 letters and you will find out what it says. It is a messed up copy of another message. ... Catch the Blue Wave! --- Blue Wave v2.12 [NR] * Origin: The Overworked Dragon BBS (503)256-8451 PDX (1:105/56) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00010 Date: 03/11/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 01:51am \/To: GERALD CHRISTOFFEL (Read 1 times) Subj: engine prob. -> The best by far is a unit off a central air conditioner. They're -> quiet, fast and compact. Punch a hole into the top corner with your -> air chisel They really do work well Gerald, but I just use the normal low pressure connection and put a foam packed filter canister over it. Pumping striaght UP to a surge tank where the oil can drain back down to the compressor don't let as much of it get lost in the output air. We've learned to be very careful with the overpressure valve on AC units. Those things have no conscience and will pump up to SEVERAL hundred pounds altogether too quick. We have a local tale we tell about a guy named Jerry, who built what we now call a "Jerry Bomb" with a refrigeration compressor and a water heater tank. He neglected to use a RELIABLE pressure controller switch and launched his water heater storage tank right through the roof of his shop! We'd better not design a "Gerry Bomb" if we can avoid it. ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3F00011 Date: 03/11/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 01:50am \/To: GERALD CHRISTOFFEL (Read 1 times) Subj: engine prob. -> That's a neat idea, but I think I'd stay away from the freon bottles. Heck Gerald, freon tanks are SAFE compared to the junk some people use! I've pumped the 15 pound size of freon tank to well over 400 PSI with no sign of strain. Hydrostatic testing is of course the way to go, but putting the tank out in the boonies where it can blow up if it likes is the next best thing. We DO want to err on the side of safety but if you pump a tank to 400 PSI it's pretty dang safe for 125! -> 300 lbs before the plastic valve popped out. Have no idea how much Do NOT mess with the newer "safety" freon bottles those plastic valves are MADE to blow up. Use the old style and you're safe. They have a blowout plug in the bottom which will not let the tank itself split, and are good for 125 PSI. Also don't use water heater tanks unless you like to live dangerously, ESPECIALLY if your name is Jerry! *I* use one but then I've pumped it to 350+PSI even after I'd welded up several holes, and I limit it to 100PSI and don't trust it any further than I can throw it. Do as I say, not as I do! I'm old and don't CARE anymore. ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3G00000 Date: 03/10/97 From: CRAIG HEALY Time: 07:47am \/To: ELVIS HARGROVE (Read 1 times) Subj: Rims -> -> Falls into "Put your money where your mouth is" category . Sou -> -> like a foolproof test! Heh! -> -> Slow timing a Beech Baron one time the engine DID quit. I thought th -> mechanic was gonna DIE! (it had stripped a Mag coupling and made a -> TERRIFIC racket!) He would have climbed out on the wing and fixed -> it on the spot if it hadn't been so windy..... Hmmm. Two mags on the engine? Thought that was the norm. But heck, I'm very far away from an A&P ticket. -> We just lazed around the pattern and landed with one turning and the -> other feathered. IT really wasn't his fault. Not knowing the setup, I'd have no comment. But I guess there's always the unexpected failure - and how much can you magnaflux anyhow? And I bet the failure did nothing to help his laundry the next day . -c- --- ViaMAIL!/WC4 v1.30 * Origin: Chowdanet! 20gb Amateur Radio BBS (401-331-5587) (1:323/120) --------------- FIDO MESSAGE AREA==> TOPIC: 155 OLD CARS Ref: E3G00001 Date: 03/11/97 From: ELVIS HARGROVE Time: 08:07pm \/To: CRAIG HEALY (Read 1 times) Subj: Rims -> Hmmm. Two mags on the engine? Thought that was the norm. But heck, -> I'm very far away from an A&P ticket. Strangely enough somebody at Continental decided the redundant mags could SHARE the drive! (Now THAT's about dumb!) So, they're not totally islolated mechanically. I think they started that on the Cessna 337 engines. Me, I, Personally, wish they'd drop ALL the mags in the nearest blast furnace and let us have HEI electronic ignitions on aircraft engines. This magneto business is rediculous. -> I bet the failure did nothing to help his laundry the next day . ROTRWLMAO! That's better than making him sick and throwing up all over the back seat! ^..^ --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: BOO! Board Of Occult, Rio Grande Valley Texas (1:397/6)